Missing oil pressure switch?

[z1joshmon]

Ok so i have another thread going on my CEL being out for which i have ordered the #18 GE bulb as well as a #74 GE bulb for the left turn blinker on the dash (all else works). 

HOWEVER that didnt really address the OIL PRESSURE LIGHT that is also out..and i was looking at the engine and i cant find my oil pressure switch. In fact i found a plug where i think its located but no sensor just a bolt into the block..

Is it supposed to be located in between the oil filter and the exhaust manifold on the driver's side of the 1.6L 8v TBI engine? It so..mine just has a screw plugged into the hole. No switch unit or anything.

The a/c was bypassed in this (which is why the wire hanging disnt alarm me more cuz i figured itnwas for the ac compressor) but alas..i found a picture that showed a wire thst loops above the timing cover with a neat little corrugated black jacket around it and routed back over to where the a/c compressor was. Wire just hanging there..i deduced from the picture that this wire is what goes to my oil pressure switch and its just entirely missing and wire hanging.

 questions:
1) Am i on right track thst my oil pressure switch is missing and If not then what does go there?


2nd off..if it is then is it connected to the ECU in any way or is the light independent of the ECU? (I read somewhere that it wasn't connected and that this sensor basically just acts as a switch turning the light on when the oil pressure is dangerously low. I have also ordered some capacitors for my ECU per the information i have learned here)

Should attempt to replace with an OEM sensor or should i get an aftermarket one? As y'all can see..right now if my oil pressure bottoms put then i may not know until too late and thats not good enough

Also regarding the threads on this..i read something about needing an adaptor because of the threading going 28Bsm to 27?? I am almost dreading pulling the old screw out in case PO bored it out.

Will fixing the oil pressure switch with OEM switch fix my idiot oil light.. basically is what im asking?  Also..is there a seperate bulb in the cluster for it as well?  If so im assuming irs the GE 74 like everything but the CEL? I have to pull cluster to change CEL soon anyways so even tho it may not be burnt out i may replace it anyways juat so i know its good before i begin working on the switch.

[fixkick]

Ok so i have another thread going on my CEL being out for which i have ordered the #18 GE bulb as well as a #74 GE bulb for the left turn blinker on the dash (all else works). 

HOWEVER that didnt really address the OIL PRESSURE LIGHT that is also out..

and i was looking at the engine and i cant find my oil pressure switch.
ok the pressure switch on on the left center of the engine block, in fact it is ported to the main engine oil gallery 1.



In fact i found a plug where i think its located but no sensor just a bolt into the block..
yes and is common the switch love to leak, for sure bumped, and the lazy put in a plug,  but needs metric pipe plug so using a USA NPT , USA national pipe plug
will in fact cross threading, this, my page on oil pressure answers this all exactly. seen here


Is it supposed to be located in between the oil filter and the exhaust manifold on the driver's side of the 1.6L 8v TBI engine? It so..mine just has a screw plugged into the hole. No switch unit or anything. ( well some one monkey Fracked that)

here is me using metric to uSA NPT adpator to a gauge real.
https://www.fixkick.com/engine/97-motor-pull/images/pressure-good.jpg


here is my page on the magic of sensor threads.
BSPT thread is not really metic not USA NPT but BSPT, an odd BRITISH thread.

but using a real suzuki sender avoids all this threaded pain, for sure.

The a/c was bypassed in this (which is why the wire hanging disnt alarm me more cuz i figured it nwas for the ac compressor)

AC is and added OPTION on this car, with its own AC harness..
but alas..i found a picture that showed a wire that loops above the timing cover with a neat little corrugated black jacket around it and routed back over to where the a/c compressor was.
Wire just hanging there..i deduced from the picture that this wire is what goes to my oil pressure switch and its just entirely missing and wire hanging.
THE AC has  engine over heat sensor (right side of engine, and is only switch) if engine over heats (see my AC page yet?) the AC shuts off
the receiver drier up front has a Hi/low switch if the Freon, goes too  high or low pressure the AC amp brain shuts off the clutch the compressor. saving its bacon.
please post year car so I do not have to read all; posts.   year and engine valve count if asking about just an engine.

see my hVAC page> on AC , huge facts there, and tests.



 questions:
1) Am i on right track that my oil pressure switch is missing, YES.
the 1996 fsm is listed in post  ONE this forum, "MANUALS FREE", and answers that easy.


2nd off..if it is then is it (OIL PRESSURE SENDER)connected to the ECU NO, it is just  wires ,lamp sender like say 1960s  car. (simple as pie)

(I read somewhere that it wasn't connected and that this sensor basically just acts as a switch turning the light on when the oil pressure is dangerously low. I have also ordered some capacitors for my ECU per the information i have learned here)
The silly oil sender is is pressure switch, below 5PSI , lamp glows, and is usually too late no. for 100 years, called an idiot lamp.



Should attempt to replace with an OEM sensor or should i get an aftermarket one?  OEM= OIL?  but the answer is all stores in USA see this. (autoparts)
must be for SUZUKI and THIS car, not some Ford. or DODGE.
As y'all can see..right now if my oil pressure bottoms put then i may not know until too late and thats not good enough ( it works no better than any idiot lamp worked for 100 years, the too late sensor.

Also regarding the threads on this..

i read something about needing an adapter (only if using  real gauge or worse a stinking DODGE sender) 
because of the threading going 28Bsm to 27?? I am almost dreading pulling the old screw out in case PO bored it out.
OMG show photos of the queer screw, words can not ever show damage. only photos. (or real eyeballs)   BSPT
(BSPT is BRITISH STANDARD PIPE TAPER – Thread form per AS 1722.1, BS 21, ISO 7
it is not a true ISO metric thread, NOT AT ALL. (modern, it is a relic of the past from 1960s)
it is not USA inches, called, NPT national pipe thread, as seen in Home depot , pipe isle. ever.
it is very  very alien on this car nothing else on car is so alien, as this, metric is not alien but this is.....




Will fixing the oil pressure switch with OEM switch fix my idiot oil light.. basically is what im asking?  sure !!!!!
well it is just a switch and if oil pressure is good sure a good lamp will work for sure. (gee the cluster provides power to it)
it works no more complex than a flash light.

Also..is there a separate bulb in the cluster for it as well?  (if you look at my cluster page and my cluster schematics all this is clear.)
the Cell lamp is special the ECU has  transistor that must not be overloaded. and that is #18
the other lamps use more current,so run lots of really simple things not limited to weak ECU currents.
you can see that there a huge bank of lamps on say a 4door with 4speed box and with 4wd and more.  all those lamps use more current.
let me now stop and try to figure out what car you have,  IDK.
ok your profile shows.
93 Sidekick JX (2door 3spd trans, (hyramatic) auto-hubs, 4x4 w/ the 8v G16A 1.6 TBI).
you have 4wd lamp and 4wd/hi/low range lamp.
you have oil lamp, blinkers, 2 background park lamps, and high beam lamp , and CEL.
suzuki has like 20 heads use 1992 to 95 even KMH used in Canada. and for all transmisiong variants hell all drive line variates.
the cluster has tachometer and clock speed/odmeter, pure mechanical, that. fuel meter,  overheat meter.
and last a  bevy of lamps all just 2 wires and a connector,  simple as simple can get. this.

we have a schematic, all Suzuki FSM every one does, end to end and even inside the cluster schematic in every book, for this car. (no lie)

up to 12 lamps in the cluster,  2 are just background (park lamps)
all are the same, but CEL
all are twist off /on sockets.
all just take new bulb and stuff it in the empty socket





If so im assuming irs the GE 74 like everything but the CEL? I have to pull cluster to change CEL soon anyways so even tho it may not be burnt out i may replace it anyways just so i know its good before i begin working on the switch.

nah,
the lamps in hand ever one, all you do is connect it to any 12vdc battery and test the lamp. for 100 years we did this 1900 to now. (LED not here)
or use your DMM measure the lamp. if measures short, 0 ohms it is good if infinity it is bad.
if you see lamp has smoky glass bulb it is at end of its life, gee, it is 27 years old how long do they last, well not that long, 1000 hours is spec, on most.
on mine I bought them all new at once. every one.
good for another 27years./?

look here see those black plugs there, (lamp sockets)
see the copper traces and the PCB fibergass board and connector, that is all there is to this. nothing more no electronics at all just copper. (techo is electronics)




and last a schematic of one cluster is there.

see page 2, oil pressure

https://fixkick.com/power-elect/95%20ele...5GAGES.pdf

60AM0 cluster, my guess.
see...
not sure car year 1991 see page 16 here, see that suzuki  in fact shows cluster wiring inside the cluster.

https://fixkick.com/look/91-complete.pdf

10 to 12 lamps, 10 in this case. see clearly there, in a real schematic.

the FSM is sold use, best is 92-95, Trackers, sidekick books are rare now. FSM OEM REAL, is best not some 10 year mixed year books, trash.
as seen here
 https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R4...m&_sacat=0
1992 geo tracker manual oem

[fixkick]

HVAC<<AC>
 if the clutch is dead, and even hot wired (connector pulled)  ( bad clutch) if this test passes. then,
then that means the AMP is doing that to save damage. (to many things, its PRIME JOB THAT)
Amp (AC MODULE PROTECTION)
BLOWN FUSES.
BAD RELAYS.
SEIZED COMPRESSOR? (cant be turned by hand? clutch engaged by you )
HI/LOW switch hot happy. yellow wire not at 12-14.7vdc?  if 0v that means FREON charge is dead  WRONG.
AC lamp not on., blower dead.?
front fan dead on front grill condenser dead?\
engine coolant switch bad or wires to it bad?of this wire is cut, AC will be dead.
and more ask

see this,?

[url=https://fixkick.com/AirCond/95-AC-elect-draw.jpg][/url]

[z1joshmon]

   

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Edit: ok there is pic. Sorry for picture quality. I had to chop it down..ill get some better pics later but in this toy can see the gold plug there and the wire i assumed wrongly about

Thank you so much..i feel like an idiot because that cluster is so much easier than what I was making it out to be. I read this site religiously but today I will read up the ones thst you posted that ive either missed or misunderstood. Thank you so much for ur patience with me and help yoyve provided.

Here is a picture of the where the oil pressure switch is located. (Lol please dont judge on the microgard oil filter lol. Only too late did I read ur section about actual filtering capacity of these. My.idea was..ive changed oil n filter every 1500 miles since i got it to just kind of clean it out a bit cuz it was rough when i got it..then Recycled the oil to my buddy. Putting a WIX on this next time.and reverting to every 3k) also excuse the greasy mess.. Cv axle busted and valve cover leaky gasket..and im still trying to get all of that cleaned up...

Anyways as you can see here with pic..the AC is totally removed and bypassed with smaller belt on P/S. Having no issues with it but you can also see below my beat up exhaust shield that there is just a gold plug there. And wire hanging. I will take and post some better glamour shots of it in a bit when im not so busy (im a male nurse believe it or not during this mess)

Truck is 1993 8v 2door suzuki sidekick with 3 speed automatic..still functioning auto hubs believe it or not 4x4 

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[fixkick]

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Edit: ok there is pic. Sorry for picture quality. I had to chop it down..ill get some better pics later but in this toy can see the gold plug there and the wire i assumed wrongly about

Thank you so much..i feel like an idiot because that cluster is so much easier than what I was making it out to be. I read this site religiously but today I will read up the ones thst you posted that ive either missed or misunderstood. Thank you so much for ur patience with me and help yoyve provided.

Here is a picture of the where the oil pressure switch is located. (Lol please dont judge on the microgard oil filter lol. Only too late did I read ur section about actual filtering capacity of these. My.idea was..ive changed oil n filter every 1500 miles since i got it to just kind of clean it out a bit cuz it was rough when i got it..then Recycled the oil to my buddy. Putting a WIX on this next time.and reverting to every 3k) also excuse the greasy mess.. Cv axle busted and valve cover leaky gasket..and im still trying to get all of that cleaned up...

Anyways as you can see here with pic..the AC is totally removed and bypassed with smaller belt on P/S. Having no issues with it but you can also see below my beat up exhaust shield that there is just a gold plug there. And wire hanging. I will take and post some better glamour shots of it in a bit when im not so busy (im a male nurse believe it or not during this mess)

Truck is 1993 8v 2door suzuki sidekick with 3 speed automatic..still functioning auto hubs believe it or not 4x4 

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any filter fresh is better than none or old. or one that omg goes in to BYPASS mode.
my comments on filters is for modern times, and that some folk like to run SYNthetic oil for 20,000 miles, so for that a WIX is best. (it can last)
some filters are just glued up inside, and do not last that long. yours is ok.

the PO, seized, the last AC compressor.  this also wrecks many other parts full of debris,  like  that condensor coil.   a huge cost to fix right. (and last)
that is why they changed out the belt. (PO- previous owners)

the PO removed the old leaking oil pressure switch sender,  and plugged the old , the damage there is unknown.  (never a good thing seen here)
if Id have done that (never) id have smashed up the old sender, and brazed it closed (port) or TIG/MIG port over and blocked, so that the British treads are not wrecked in the block.
mind set: never wreck a block for fun. or folly.

I'd worry thermostat first.
after all if the STAT is old it can go worse fast, it can stick closed,OVERHEAT FAST ! and next a very expensive,  warped cylinder head as a door prize.
never ever ignore the STAT, it needs to be kept fresh , 7 years or less , say the top maker of them.

put a new 180f stat in the car. fresh and new, all stores sell this, (autostores ) or can get it fast, even at NAPA can.
is best.

cheers and good luck to you!!!!!!

[fixkick]

as a rule on all old car (we called them beat'ers ages ago ) skipping obvious bad tires)
1: brakes, first. no leaks and stops without jerking steering wheel out hands or skips easy or pulls hard braking left or right.
2: front wheel bearings not seizing up. same with brake caliper slider pins (cheap sliders on this car they rust out) bad slider will cause caliper to jam, skid, wrecks.
3: suspension parts ready to or have failed, even missing key bolts and nuts , a huge danger or bad shocks/struts,
4: fluids, not low or bad, ALL. engine oil,coolant or brakes.
5: no fluid leaks. for sure coolant at pump or hoses (27 year old hoses are useless now)
6: thermostat replaced, no old stats should ever be used on any engine.
7: front crankshaft pulley cog , 17mm head bolt has TSB , and must be set at 94ft/lbs spec, if not it wrecks the crank snout. (right hand tread facing it)
TSB are suzuki factory warnings, " technical service bulletins"

the minor problems on this car, are leaking valve cover, none ever lasted 27 year, impossible. same with all distributor Orings. leak they will.
carbon spark plug wires are junk, get MAG wire for sure this car. Better spark is always good on any car.
60k mile cam timing belt if it goes bad,engine stops. IT can shred easy. "go GATES"

[z1joshmon]

Thst is good news gor me because i replaced the front bearings, inner outer tire tod ends, cv axle, one brake caliper was stuck just like you said it would be and the other had been replaced a few years ago. Also changed brakes obviously..they are working good and no pull or bad handling like before..but i have squeaky ball joints that for some reason i didnt replace before but my friend and i are doing before inspection (I live in Virginia) which in November. I have budget set so i can change them in August after i attend to my fuel filter and thermostat. The fuel filter is original so yea it makes me.wonder. i couldnt get to it so I'm having a friend with fuel line experience do it for me at his shop on friday before my damn fuel punp goes.
Also put in new plugs wires and a new battery. Ill get better wires for sure and return the old.ones as i keep receipts.

. While there getting fuel filter changed: i will get him to set front 17mm bolt to 94ft/lbs as youve indicated

All fluids good but i havent changed transfer case fluid or fluid in my differentials. Im going to put that on the list as well. Oil good, Coolant good, brake fluid good, tranny fluid good, power steering has that tiny leak i described before but its so slow im putting that off)

The thermostat is the big one stixking out to me.so im doing it on my next day off: saturday

Also I will look at that distributor o ring when i fix the valve cover. But as you've said..all this is moot with a bad stat causing.impending doom.

Once i get the immediate atuff done as well then im going to, for sure, get a new (Gates so i know ive got the best like u said) timing belt

[z1joshmon]

    look at this daggone fuel filtwr..original factory paint lol

Dont worry i am changing it like yesterday lol

27 years old. Freaking insane..that 60psi u talk about is gonna wreck my pump if i kept driving with this.. But its getting changed Friday for sure and not going anywhere til i address both it and the thermostat

[fixkick]

that fuel filter is wreck
see those rusty banjo fitting they have 2 copper washer gaskets.
what happens is 2 fold bad.
1: the banjo faces are rusted, and what to leak. for sure after the swap.
2: new copper washer seals, are in order.

what I did to make this work is take off the hoses, and on a bench I re-surfaced the faces of those banjo fittings. (btw, only suzuki sells that and huge cost !!)
i took some hard word plank of wood,
glued on some top grade 400 grit sand paper
the rubbed them flash until I got flat and normal faces. bingo no leaks. and new filter does not leak, it must handle 60psi to 100psi. (shunt pressure spec)
this is not like carb cards with gravity feed and 3PSI pressures at all, it is EFI . pressures.

my 91 banjo's were a wreck faces all pitted.
the last thing any one wants is a fuel fire.

most shops would refuse to touch these, this old, for good reasons, it fails then what, $300 in new parts? and as much labor?
old cars are not easy to fix , and this is one spot , primed for trouble.

[fixkick]

try to learn this above EFI.
first off the FPR controls fuel pressure, not the pump, ok.
if the pump is shunted(blocked), it can go to 60psi, all by itself, no FPR present or say it (FPR) jams shut at 27 years, yah it can.
this 60PSI is the power of the pump motor that does 60psi (and actual pump) just it , even bench tested, with test fluid.

the FPR regulates pressure at all time on the 8valve it is only altitude compensation. only 34-41psi, is spec, and real. (running normal)
the hose and all parts are rated for shut pressure and engineers go 50% more or risk car fires and dead customers. or far far worse, garage fires cascading... on.)
50% is 30PSI, and 30+60 is 90 PSI so hoses (and friends) are rated at 90 to 100psi. They (we) think like this no fires for 30 years, , .

there are 3 cures. (1 in BAD #3)
1: new hose sets from suzuki , banjo death.
2: re-face the banjos and new copper seal washers.
3: and jerry rigged, (endless) seen bad actors try to cut the banjos off and use new fittings mated to 27 year old hoses, this is a huge danger this.
never cut up 27year old hoses, or nothing but bad awaits. (factoid: all parts must flue injection grade rated, nothing less)

this is not some modern car, some things will be super bad, expect it. (age , wear and rust and time. )


there are 3 hoses, Fuel) (1 front)

there are 2 hoses here at filter, very old and very bad, on most.

filter hoses. one is 15804-61a01 (change 804 to 810 or the other)
suzuki shows no hoses sold not, zero stock. banjo custom to them.
the P/N used online at SUZUKI USA, they do not list them. now. (discontinued)
what I did to my banjo's hoses seemed ok, I hand re- Machined the faces, with 400 grit then 1000 last. on oak board. hard wood of any kind , not pine) or use flat steel play, as base.
good luck finding parts for this car.

here is the source (parts not sold aftermarket on this car are huge)

https://www.suzukicarparts.com/v-1995-su...-6l-l4-gas