1994 Sidekick RPM Question

[fixkick]

The large pipe going into the throttle body was cracked at the connector.  Order and on the way along with a new clutch cable and gear shift to fix sloppy shifting.

I have read and reread the VSS problem and am still not sure where the cable is or where I get a new one and how to replace.
Is this something that I need?  This is a ranch vehicle that does not go on roads.
Thanks

ahhh like a free range chicken or steer,  great !!!

id hold off on the speedo cable.   its on the tail end of 4wd transfer case,  and if 2wd on tail end of that funny looking 2wd case on rear of 5speed, a long flex cable there.
2 plastic gears inside those tail shafts spin the cable, and are not same length , 2wd and 4wd.

that's good  finding air leak, you will find thing work much better.
clean the maf with spray cleaner, no closer that 6 inches from end of spray straw. 
spray 3 time, wait 1min between sprays so it can soak in,,,, and bam shes clean and read to measure all air flowing past it.


off my hard to find parts page  #40 is ,  here   https://fixkick.com/sensors/speedo/speed..._done1.pdf

cheers !

[tmanstein]

Maybe I should start a new thread for this, but now working on the clutch while waiting for parts.

I replaced the clutch cable which was extremely stiff. After replacing it did not make it better. Firewall is good, welds are good and spline looks good. When I was doing the inch test I noticed that I can not move lever #11 by hand and thought this could be my problem, but not sure if I am reading it correctly that I should be able to move easily. If it should be easy what is my problem?

[fixkick]

Maybe I should start a new thread for this, but now working on the clutch while waiting for parts.

I replaced the clutch cable which was extremely stiff.  After replacing it did not make it better.  Firewall is good, welds are good and spline looks good.  When I was doing the inch test I noticed that I can not move lever #11 by hand and thought this could be my problem, but not sure if I am reading it correctly that I should be able to move easily.  If it should be easy what is my problem?

bell lever 11 ,  end is 6 times the force of the pedal, so with 25lbs push in the pedal the end of 11 is 6 times that or 150 lbs.
also the clutch disk must lockup all 95 HP and torque of the engine. (and super higher torque in 1st gear)
that means the PP, pressure plate is super powerful force.
The cable gets cut groove inside it that happen only under tension then binds!.  a new cable is always first. they really stink when bad,  horrible. effects.
i forgot did you change that cable>?

[tmanstein]

Update
New clutch cable is in and working fine.
New plastic parts have fixed shifter sloppiness.
New flex pipe in to replace leaking hose connector going in to TB.
I am happy with all of these things, but now have two problems.
Engine idles at 750-800 no matter what. Unplugging ISC does nothing, plugging the ISC air tube does nothing. Turning on heater and headlights drops to 700ish.
Also, the electrical system does not allow headlights to be on with radio and seems very weak.
Not sure where to go from here.

[fixkick]

Update
New clutch cable is in and working fine.
New plastic parts have fixed shifter sloppiness.
New flex pipe in to replace leaking hose connector going in to TB.
I am happy with all of these things, but now have two problems.

Engine idles at 750-800 no matter what.  (hot or cold engine?)
Unplugging ISC does nothing, plugging the ISC air tube does nothing.  (hot engine , means ISC is dead, and bleed set wrong to compensate for dead IAC (previous owners)
Turning on heater and headlights drops to 700ish.  (ISC dead hot)

Also, the electrical system does not allow headlights to be on with radio and seems very weak. (wired wrong, btw Head lamps work key off, so wired WRONG)
Not sure where to go from here.

when the engine cold the IAC in the base of TB , is open and idle is 1200 RPM and lots higher if dead of winter and very very gold.
then as the engine warms the wax pellet in the IAC Pushes the valve in the iAC closed 100% at 150F and stays close then thermostat hold temps at 180F.
Then at 150 the ISC comes on line and regulates all hot idle speeds, for sure.

tell the full story, from cold to hot. only then can we point fingers at problems.





the IAC can stick open too. (or closed) but  we check that the input port is open cold, it must suck air cold or the IAC is dead.
The IAC below closes at 150F


on many cars this old the IAC is dead, stuck open so the owner closed the bleed screw (clock wise) to hide this failure.  Cold engine tests are first and this is what must work first.
one more nasty trick is PO, (previous owners) fiddled with the no touch screw see bottom left,,
with the throttle cables slack the TV (throttle valve butterfly plate ) is 99.9% closed, at about 0.0005" 1/2 a thousands of an inch. closed.
There reason not 100% closed is stop the TV from JAMMING in the bore. seen blocked open above with large screw.

the IAC above can fail 3 ways, stuck open , stuck closed or closing too late. The thermostat must work at 180f and the hose the runs the IAC must NOT BE CLOGGED."H2O"

[fixkick]

MOST IAC fail stuck open hot, 180F and stuck wide open and RPM is like 2000 RPM hot or MORE, this is the classic failure. but not always,. they can stick closed.
or be (hacked)
hacking to stop the 2500 RPM hot racing, of RPM. idle. like putting in a solid paper gasket there , blocking all air flow.
the IAC can be tested in pan of hot water, but most times the screws are stuck and do not want to come off.
the other way is to blow in the hole marked INPUT port, engine off, and blow into that hole with rubber hose, jammed over that port by hand and lips on other end checking , yes I can blow air. (into the plenum)
and the photo above, we can block the port hot with clay to see if hot idle at 2500 rpm drops to 800. (the classic failure is this) we block it hot running engine using clay or electrical mastic putty. the put the air tube back or MAF is dead.
but this is not your problem racing, it is a dead IAC.

first off all , I am talking idle speeds hot and cold and on perfectly running engine.
and the engine with spark timing all wrong can not have idle working right,
Idle controls only work if all else is working right. (cam belt not slipped, compression at spec, spark timing set right) injectors not super lean or rich, ECU in closed loop hot.
IDLE is dead last of the things that can work right
but it sure can hide minor things wrong, it adjusts for cold weather and cold tight engine and a hot day. (or and old tired engine it will still work, but not compression at 100PSI (180 norm)

[tmanstein]

Idle at start is 1200 then moves down to 750-800 hot.(Not sure how hot, or how to tell but needle is 1/3 to the right).

I have not examined the TB or IAC at all, I will test tonight.

[fixkick]

Idle at start is 1200 then moves down to 750-800 hot.(Not sure how hot, or how to tell but needle is 1/3 to the right).

I have not examined the TB or IAC at all, I will test tonight.

sounds like the IAC works ok.  if it ramps down like that it is working, the IAC thermal air valve.
so try playing with the bleed screw? to see if it can get it to lock in and regulate (this ISC)


if the CEL lamp glows idle can fail, but  ive never seen code 24 do  that, ever.  pull the dome fuse, and put back reset the ECU errors in memory
then idle engine until hot. so code 24 can not set.
then see if headlamps + blower holds RPM  are steady near 800 hot.  if not screw i the bleed 1 turn see if the ISC wakes up,  of not CCW out the bleed 2 turns see if idle controls wake up.
cheers to you

[tmanstein]

I have cleared code 24 by unhooking battery and it has not come back on in running.

Can you confirm what screw I need to turn? Do you have a picture?

[fixkick]

the idle duty cycle set screw called bleed screw is here.




the ISC must actually work like this first,  do not apply voltage to it form more than 1 second.  just touch the wires. to a 12vdc battery or 12vdc power pack,(1amp minimum rated)
the coil measures, 15 ohms with and DMM meter set to OHM (resistance) on the dial if reads infinity the coil inside is burned open and no good.


https://fixkick.com/videos/FLV-all/showtime.html#ISC