Ecu pull

[fixkick]

if cylinder is weak or dead, misfiring well not go away. (caused by compression issues)
is this your first car with a distrib, (Dizzy)?

this car has distrib that works like say and old V8 had in 60,70s
see this video on how the centrifugal advancing mechanism works.
when he says, "Points" in your mind think, (igniter)
your advance works just like this video shows, this method ran for 1930s upto to 1979 or until full ECU controls were born.
later (1999 or so) suzuki wised up and used 4 spark coil , no distributor and the ECU fires the coil with logic only. (advance is then done algorithmic'ly) later named DIS , for DistributorLess, Ignition systems.
in 1991, suzuki deleted the vacuum and centrifugal advance parts. (and using pure logic to replace all that complex part to software that lasts forever) and mutated the VR to a CMP sensor HALL)


https://youtu.be/PaX1-1igeWM?t=44

all cars with a distrib. (suzuki 88-89)(
one can gab the cam in the distrib, (it really is VR reluctor, tone wheel or star cam)
this cam if you will , replaced the POINTS type real cam back then
but works just the same way, you grab it and turn it, and it flexes as you turn it, and that is the springs moving in the video. see? no it must not be loose, its under spring tension, so if found loose the distributor is NO GOOD.

[Heady]

Yes this is my first car with a dizzy. Sorry I haven’t replied in a while I’ve been really busy with the sidekick. Haven’t done a compression test yet because I sold my other engine and had to pull it and have been prepping the two rigs. Upon inspection when the body has been lifted a bit off the fram you can see the donor vehicle body and frame is in way better shape....so I’m now in the middle of a full swap. I will do the compression test today or tomorrow at the latest and post my results though before I pull the motor.


Quick question my 1989 Sidekick JX ECU and motor and even fuel pump controls are different than the donor 1995 Geo Tracker....


Am I able to plug and play my 1989 ecu and engine into the 1995 geo wiring harnesses and body?

Im aware the injector wires and the IAC are Flip flopped. And that the fuel pump on my 89 only activated key on unless cold outside. But other than that what other differences or issues would I have if I didn’t swap over the wires?

[fixkick]

Yes this is my first car with a dizzy. Sorry I haven’t replied in a while I’ve been really busy with the sidekick. Haven’t done a compression test yet because I sold my other engine and had to pull it and have been prepping the two rigs. Upon inspection when the body has been lifted a bit off the fram you can see the donor vehicle body and frame is in way better shape....so I’m now in the middle of a full swap. I will do the compression test today or tomorrow at the latest and post my results though before I pull the motor.
We buy used engine on pallet, we do compression test on the pallet using a stock manual trans bell+ starter motor.
that way no installing dead engines, for such and easy test.

would you spend a ton of cash on non related cures, for 180,180,180,30 PSI readings, no , you fix the engine first. what if piston was cracked, holed or ring lands all busted up..(from dead EGR and detonation) no need to put that in to any car, ever... needs fixing on the floor.(or machine shop )


Quick question my 1989 Sidekick JX ECU and motor and even fuel pump controls are different than the donor 1995 Geo Tracker....
the 89 is totally unique, in vast ways, I have page on that, called 89 differences
one is the fuel pump relay, i married in inside the main, relay (and is expensive and hard to test ) and if warm outside, the 3 second key PRIME is HOT THERE
it must be cranked to get fuel pressure. very unique, for sure.





Am I able to plug and play my 1989 ecu and engine into the 1995 geo wiring harnesses and body? 95 8valve? 95 came with 2 different engine, 8v and 16v.
NO, the 89 has no spark controls at all , the 95 generates all spark.
yes if you move the everything, that includes the distributor but is not the gear on the distributors hugely different, id be all over that first.
be sure to look at the 88/98 head , rear distrib house and cam gear then on any 91-95 (usa years) engines.

Im aware the injector wires and the IAC are Flip flopped. (ah at he jack plug, at first did not know what this means, do no) and is ISC.
IAC is thermal only, in the base of the TB.
some books call them both IAC and is wrong. The need 2 diffr. names..

The 95 injector has different part number than the 89/90 , not sure why but is an issue.


And that the fuel pump on my 89 only activated key on unless cold outside. (ok i see you know that already)
But other than that what other differences or issues would I have if I didn’t swap over the wires?
one more the ISC in the 88/9 coil ohms is 2 times different than the 91+, so you mix them with different wrong ECU you burn up the ECu that wants 2x ohms coil, do not connect 89 ISC to 95 ECU or boom, burn up the driver in the ECU. 2x more current and boom,

sure see this, i made page just for all that.


http://www.fixkick.com/specs/89-diffs.html

[fixkick]

ive never tried to put a 89/90 distributor in 91-95 8v
nor the reverse, i think there will be problems.
housing fit and cam end gear issues.
i remember (if possible 10 years later LOL) hearing others had problems here.
the 91 + is CMP distrb, no vacuum no ,advance in the distributor.
for sure the 89/90 distrib is useless on any 1991 up ECU,
usa years, other countries, super huge more complex, some run 3 distributors in EU. type 1,2,3.

[Heady]

I see where I went wrong with wording here....I didn’t know that about using a different year ecu would actually fry them though thanks for the knowledge!


Ok ok donar car (95 geo 8valve) is litterally just a body and frame with fuel lines/tank, and brake lines. I will be swapping everything from my 1989 sidekick. What I was meaning but worded incorrectly was an I able to use the wiring harnesses or do I need to switch them from my sidekick as well? The Geo engine is gone and the tranny needs re built...like bad. Lol so I dropped everything off the frame and jacked the body up to have a look of what the topside of the frame looks like....it’s beautiful lol not a spot of rust on it!! It was 2wd though so I realize I have to change axles, engine(because there isn’t one in it lol) tranny, and everything else.


But I noticed when I pulled the geo 8valve engine out that the injector Shares a pigtail with the TPS, and the IAC has its own 2 wire pigtail....unlike how my 89 the ISC and TPS share a pigtail and the injector has its own 2 wire pigtail....also noticed that I think the MAP sensor is a 3 wire compared to my 2 and I’m sure there is more differences I have overlooked.


Upon further research on your site it looks like quite a few pins don’t correspond between the two generations of track kicks. So I wasn’t sure if I were to plug my ecu into that wiring system if everything would talk right like it’s supposed to.


Also yes that was the plan with the engine to pull it set it down then test compression so if I need to send it off or break it down I can do it easy peasey right there before putting into another body.

I hope that I’m making more sense now lol

[fixkick]

89 is a gen 1 car
95 is gen 2,
gen 2 harness is no good for 89 at all, and the reverse,
the 89 ISC has no water heat hose, just 2 wires to ISC. and run 2 times more current. not good for any 91+ ECU.
and the 89, wires the injector;iSC differently, than any 91+ and that again is harness wrong.
the harnesses are not even close to same. gen1 to 2 up.
vast differences, even grounds.

The will be more, differences, mixing gen1 to 2 parts is not easy, at anytime.
really its just a matter of using the correct harness
if you cant then ,its big big job or correcting every single wrong thing 1 by 1.
the ecu are not even close to the same, (worlds apart and connected totally different)
see ecu 89/90 here.
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/89/1990-scan-...lpages.pdf

now see this. page 13. (shock)?
http://www.fixkick.com/look/91-complete.pdf

[Heady]

Thank you for the info.



Just a quick update, been busy changing career paths, had a few tests/certificates to get out of the way. Now I’m back at it and noticed my starter is junk...sigh

I have the battery hooked directly up to the starter and not really getting anything more than clicks when I complete the circuit with a wire or screwdriver. Am I doing anything wrong or am I correct and just have a junk starter? I had problems once and a blue moon with it as well.

[fixkick]

bad starter that just failed a bench test (good battery, jumper cables, starter and 1 screw driver jump device)
make sure the battery stays above 10vdc, as you hot wire the solenoid, ST pin. if not 10v or more the battery is no good. (12.5v is voltage before the act of cranking)
test2:
you can hot wire the 2 big SOL. lugs, too, and hear motor spin but not pinion gear turn , this is good starter but a bad solenoid test.
if that 2nd test passes the solenoid can be removed, cleaned and lube the splints and might fix it. or even some stores, (rare today ) sell just solenoid.
http://www.fixkick.com/nocrank.html

Thank you for the info.



Just a quick update, been busy changing career paths, had a few tests/certificates to get out of the way. Now I’m back at it and noticed my starter is junk...sigh

I have the battery hooked directly up to the starter and not really getting anything more than clicks when I complete the circuit with a wire or screwdriver. Am I doing anything wrong or am I correct and just have a junk starter? I had problems once and a blue moon with it as well.

[fixkick]

if the test 2 fails, the motor is dead. one can use rubber or dead blow hammer and rap the case sides, and wake it up, (bad brushes do that)

[Heady]

Compression test is done compression is as followed

1-165
2-170
3-175
4-175