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+--- Thread: 1994 suzuki sidekick jlx 1.6 automatic w-o/d lock out hubs (/thread-1994-suzuki-sidekick-jlx-1-6-automatic-w-o-d-lock-out-hubs)
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RE: 1994 suzuki sidekick jlx 1.6 automatic w-o/d lock out hubs - star2525 - 01-09-2014
Isc or tsc is what I'm thinking it was.
On start up I have to accelerate. Idle won't set.
Isc or tsc is what I'm thinking it was.
On start up I have to accelerate. Idle won't set.
Yes 16v both.
And yes on light.
The 92 was a real pickle and I think we replaced every part in the firing order.
As well as prns switch and transmission.
94 has exhaust leak needs new muffler and tailpipe.
Battery needs replaced too.
Also last time I was driving I was noticing that my mpg wasn't that good. somewhere between 16 and upwards to 20.
RE: 1994 suzuki sidekick jlx 1.6 automatic w-o/d lock out hubs - fixkick - 01-09-2014
good morning !
Hot idle is ISC, cold idle is IAC. ISC is electric air controlled by ECU, IAC is thermal only. (water heated)
ISC , is the idle speed controller, it will work if cleaned, and the idle switch is closed on the throttle TPS (throttle position sensor)
Does the engine have full power hot>?
The other car has lost of engine parts they are the same engine, cept some minor parts (EGR(mightbe) and IAT missing on 92s)
Does the CEL lamp come on key on, and then go out , running? if not pull the flash codes with the jumper paper clip trick.
Does the 94 have a CAT converter still installed , & is that front of cat pipe , present in front of pipe, sill leak free,? 90degree pipe.
there are 2 exhaust manifold, CALif and FED, the long pipe manifold has no 90deg, leaker pipe. The 94 does not have this part.
the 92,pipe of horror. (insides collapse)
http://www.fixkick.com/exhaust/sc01-exh92.pdf
i mention this, because, many of these old cars have engine swaps.. very common practices, this old.
Leak to the rear of this CAT are only a safety issue, not engine tune effecting. This car has only 1 oxygen sensor , up font on the exhaust manifold
the first check on the engine besides the CEL check should be, does my engine get fully hot test. (the dash gauge (temp) helps a bit here, but is better to feel the top hose of the
radiator for 1second, if hand flies off, ouch it is fully hot. (i use an IR pyro gut of this test) 180F is normal temp hot, and is step 1 to good MPG.
if the engine don't idle right dead cold that means the IAC is stuck closed, this is the device bolted to the bottom of the throttle body.
IAC photos: (idle air controller (cold)
http://www.fixkick.com/fresh-air/Slide_Show/HTML/image_23.html
the bolts on the IAC love to snap off, on removal , so better, is to swap the whole throttle body.
My guess, so for, for cold idle not racing near 1500 on a cold morning is the IAC is stuck closed, bad. (cant be fixed cleaning)
A dead IAC, invites, flooding unless 10% throttle is added, at each cold start.
Once the engine is hot 180F. the ISC takes over idle controls.
other reasons for very low cold start , idle RPM
1: distributor timing way retarded. (a timing light is needed to check it) $20
2: lean air fuel mixtures, due to clogged injectors, try some injector cleaner . Chevron Techron has benzene and is powerful cleaner. ( i dont think so...)
3: low engine compression, very low, due most likely a slipped cam timing belt. (all 4 very low, not all 4 at 150 + PSI)
4: intake air leaks cause racing (means too high idle) but on a hot engine air leaks, cause bogging, unless hard right foot is apples to throttle. (it's not this)
5: low fuel pressure but that would make hot full engine power, very weak. (going up hills very hard)
6: in bad need of a tuneup. weak spark, clogged filters.
7: EGR valve stuck wide open, (seems they all do that ever 50,000 miles.... per Suzuki. and real experience. kills idle hot or cold.
testing the IAC on the car is near impossible task, i can test them, if they leak but not stuck closed.
the hard part is trying to blow thru this slot hole here, iac-input-port.
![[Image: 16v-MPI-Body1w.jpg]](http://www.fixkick.com/fresh-air/Slide_Show/images/16v-MPI-Body1w.jpg)
tell me all about hot engine performance? , driving. all the good , bad and ugly, (so far poor mpg) 20 is ok, in snow/ice in 4wd. 28 is best on high way 2wd.
does the engine shake, at idle hot or cold?
cheers to you and family ! Happy trails....
RE: 1994 suzuki sidekick jlx 1.6 automatic w-o/d lock out hubs - fixkick - 01-12-2014
your CEL lamp is burned out, emails tells me it's in progress, the fix.
http://www.fixkick.com/power-elect/cluster-pull/cluster-out.html
the CEL can be tested at the DLC in the engine bay , pin 3. using an LED or analog volt meter.
http://www.fixkick.com/CEL/DLC/DiagJump.html#cheat
car stalls cold and hot. (fast right foot saves stalls)
and bogs hot only.
your ISC is dead, not sure why yet?, will wait for ALL DTCs to roll out the CEL (diagmode)
RE: 1994 suzuki sidekick jlx 1.6 automatic w-o/d lock out hubs - star2525 - 01-13-2014
I did finally get cel to flash and it was 12.
RE: 1994 suzuki sidekick jlx 1.6 automatic w-o/d lock out hubs - fixkick - 01-13-2014
good the ECU is happy and not in backup or limphome mode, a good place to be.
i think getting the 02 sensor working and ISC is best.
isc im sure, is just dirty
and the 02, maybe just bad or there is an exhaust crank, near it.
odd that the EGR is happy so rare that no code 5's.. a blessing.
or someone bypassed it, at he sensor., the trick is putting resistor on the EGR 2 wire sensor. just a quick glance at the EGR main, behind intake tube 4 and see if the connector is hacked,
or may be the TPS idle switch is not closed at idle, this causes bad idle controls and kills EGR and its tests.
the TPS idle switch , we can check easy on the 16v, ask how. its a 15min job max, 1 min. unplugged. just takes 3 hands, LOL. !
(cut or messed up there)
i can guide you to each, easy , just ask.