1994 suzuki sidekick jlx 1.6 automatic w-o/d lock out hubs

[star2525]

this one has the right axle or hub assembly (wheel bearing) or brake issue. I wasn't the one driving it when it broke down. I will find out more information on its issue tonight or tomorrow and post.

thanks

Victoria

[fixkick]

94 4speed 4wd

spindle thing in middle moves and wheel started to lock up I think

trying to locate the new post button for the 94 axle issue so I don't get them mixed up. it's here, your good.
might be hub assembly is what my brother said. guessing half shaft wheel bearing and brake rotor moves.

please say what is going on here.? no hurry. just asking/.
wheel bearing bad.?
CV axles gone or noisy?
or end axle locker failure.?
is see missing autolocking hub, this only kills 4wd.
is see caliper fell off.
and kids spinning brody's in the mud. (hardy har)

magic? link (lol) no sure if Cell phone ,possible. sorry if not.




this is the axle parts, including most hub lockers.
brakes are simple and work just like all other cars, rotor and caliper.


new rotor, and new (rebuilt) Raybestos™ calipers. bolts on. easy

[star2525]

he said wheel wobbled then pulled hard right and tried to lock up about her 1/4 mile from home he didn't stop he drove up my hill then it tried to lock up again. so he parked it and pulled off wheel and brake assembly pieces. the big round thing (brake caller) does wobble. and that part in center of wheel also has movement.

[fixkick]

he said wheel wobbled then pulled hard right and tried to lock up about her 1/4 mile from home he didn't stop he drove up my hill then it tried to lock up again. so he parked it and pulled off wheel and brake assembly pieces. the big round thing (brake caller) does wobble. and that part in center of wheel also has movement.

the wheel bearing is bad. it cost $50 for a new bearing. and a press to put it in and a special tool (free from me, if you need mine)
mine fits all sux 4x4 to 1998 , an not 97+ geo trackers.
steps and pitfalls
http://www.fixkick.com/hubs/FW_BEARINGS.html

nut shell, see photo. above.

you remove part id 18 with the special tool (16/17 already off)
insert tool in to 18, and turn wrench CCW (150lbs of force, there)
and that is a NUT RING.
once off the whole bearing hub comes off.
the cone inside must be pressed off then new pressed in. ID20

[star2525]

special tool?

[fixkick]

yes, read my page.but
nut shell.
see part 18 above? that is under 150lbs of torque, these bearings are crush bearings, if not set correctly they fail in under 1000 miles (stats)
there are tiny holes there. see them.?
17 is the simple clock ring, and comes off first. (screws)
then you insert the hug 1/2" drive tool in to those 4 holes (has spring studs in tool)
then CCW the wrench, (hard to do , takes big muscle or impact gun)


see just tool here ,set on the pin holes

---

cell phone, ( i have no cell phone photos, that would take 4000 edits, )
to remove the wheel bearing hub
1: the who axle locking hub removed. (other bolts) and calipers, i see you have already.
2: off the axle end snap ring.
3: see 3 Philips screw, remove the, CCW, rotation.
4: that ring comes off, its a locking ring, a safety device. do not lose it.
4: insert tool into pin ring. using 1/2 drive, socket wrench turn it CCW, until the ring unscrews, (a Gorilla can do this easy) 150+ lbs force. use beaker bar.
5: tug hub it falls off.
6: remove seals. x3 at rear, all bearings fall out.
7end to machine shop with new bearing say put in, he puts in only the CUP race. you keep bearings, in box at home.
that is 1/2 done. more later...

[star2525]

I wish I knew which wheel I had replaced bearing in before. what an ordeal that was.
I have some special tool for the bearing. no one used it last time this time I'll have to be extremely emphatic it gets used.
Is that the tool you are referring to?

---

he had me get a 16mm 1/2 drive and that didn't work its in a sack to be returned. I have some a few metric tools what all will I need? then I can take the 16mm back and get what I don't have.

I'm gonna go to my brothers computer and print instructions. doing this on a smart phone doesn't work well.

[fixkick]

the tool is a huge round cylinder, with 1/2" drive hole, and other end has RIM pins.
this tool is not sold, in reg. stores. nor rented, not at autozoned, or pepboys or O-Really's

the tool is not cheap.
i got mine for $50 but inflation, its more.
mine is a real tool. not clone or junk, with weak pins.
the bearing fail fast , if under torqued.
the suzuki spec is For setting torque at about 123-180 Ft/lbs. (the gm book says 160 and is wrong, its a RANGE.

the rule is tighten it to 123, see if screw holes align (lock ring) then if not aligned, more torque, a little at a time, until it aligns. most land about 150ft lbs.
email your real addr. ill send one for free. the tool. its an original kent-more . Free to good home.
same as this
http://www.etoolcart.com/kent-moore-geo-...37763.aspx (no GEO trackers 96+ and NO 2WD cars) only 4wd, like yours.

[star2525]

Many Thanks Jerry as usual your information is the best!!

Now moving onto the next issue I have discovered after 2 days of driving.
I am having to power brake as I am driving to keep rpms up if not engine dies.

On my 92jx it had this issue and I remember ordering an expensive part I can't remember its location on the 92 jx. Just wondering if you remember or know which part I am referring to? And sure hope its same part for 94 jlx.

Thanks (part was close to 300 if I remember right)

[fixkick]

so glad to hear you driving , again, Victoria.
you need 4wd really bad there. glad for you !!

STALLING:

tell me more about. how this 94 engine runs. ("power brake?", my guess, you are stepping no brake and throttle at same time, because it wants to stall as you come to a stop>?)
are not both cars cars, 16v engines?.
dash CEL lamp on key on then out running?

(my initial guess, is the EGR main valve is sticking open, they love to do that ,just before stop and it stalls)
it can be cleaned this lil devil.
the ISC can stick too.
the 16v engine can stall too, with a crack in the mine air tube from air cleaner MAF device all the way to the head. Air leaks here cause gross lean fuel mixtures and stalls, at idle.
a dirty MAF can too, and same effect. clean the MAF hot wire, from 12" back with CRC maf cleaner or in jamb carb cleaner, be gentle, its a $1000 sensor.(at suz)

in most cases the problem can be fixed for free.
my guess is you bought a new ISC back 5 years ago.... IIRC?

a bad TPS , usually does not cause stalls, but causes racing AT IDLE . and bogs.

I do remember you had one of those recalled 90deg exhaust collectors that the EPA tin baffle collapsed inside, and put a cork in the engine, killing all power,, not a fun thing for you to find.

good luck , working your bugs out... best wishes ...
double trouble, twins