(11-13-2019, 11:27 PM)Hello,Wondering if you know the part number for #20 and #25? I\m not sure if I see #25 on my car. So - What just happened was that I kept having to tighten the clutch cable over and over, and then the clutch pedal broke off the weld. I went ahead and replaced the entire clutch pedal assembly. The clutch cable is a BECK and its only a year old. To be on the safe side, I ordered a new OEM Suzuki clutch cable (has not arrived yet). However - right now with the new clutch pedal assembly, the clutch still feels "off" - After the car is warmed up, I hear a "creaking" sound when I press the clutch in and out - and the sound comes from the area where the lever / cable / bracket is, around where part number #20 is. I think part number 20 may be old and may have some flex during clutch engagement, so I want to replace it just to be safe. Also - part number #10 (lever), the screw nut #18 is screwed over 70% of all the threads on the cable. When the lever #10 is relaxed (about 1mm from hitting the TO bearing), it is not completely perpendicular to the clutch housing, it sits angled towards the clutch bracket #20 (by about 10 degrees). Does this mean when I press in the clutch, the clutch lever is moving "upwards" instead of parallel in relation to the cable, causing it to stretch and damaging my pedal assembly and part #20? Maybe this is why I hear that weird sound? The lever #10 was never been properly aligned with shaft #5, when the mechanic installed the new clutch and transmission a couple years back, there was an arbitrary mark drawn on the shaft where it should mount with the lever....so not sure if that was installed properly....and if the lever isnt sitting on the right position on the shaft, then maybe this is the source of the trouble I'm having? Any advice would be appreciated so  I don't end up breaking my new pedal assemblyThanksSina Wrote: ok,  the shaft is side held by those bussing, and yes, they are , nylon. (best guess)
there are springs inside, that break, this old,  the shaft seems to last but never those bushings.
sure the TO bearing is captured in the yoke, on all cars STICK.
when you take it apart you will see all this and is not odd at all for any STICK (try an 88 jeep,something with coaxial hydraulic throwout bearing and cylinder all in one , (ouch)
the shaft only goes in one way, to align to the TOut #4.
the markes are all there, end of shaft and the lever. and must be aliened.

here are the steps, (clearing my head,2007 to now..... tick tick tick,,,,,
1: drop box bell as one to floor.
2: now, remove the Tout. bearing.
3: the shaft is now 100%free, only the bushings can stop you (spring detached right side, facing TOut)
4: the bushing on the left may need to be driving out first, I CAN not remember but do understand this is all normal here, no magic, just shaft held captive by the 5 things inside.

Take the lever off first,  right side of  bell clutch lever. then slide the shaft right (left facing bell) then see end of shaft drop from bell (left) {right facing it}
then the shaft slides  right and out. facing. it. the lever off allows that last action.
this is not in the book because if you were looking at the bell now ,it be obvious they say.
the captive parts are clear,
2 bush.
1 spring.
1 lever.
1 , TOut bearing.

remove the last 3 above. then deal with 2 bushings last,  if a bush needs to be pushed out (left or right do so)  I can not remember if the bushings must pushed out but at that point in time if it dont fall out BINGO push time it is..... I should have done a video on it, I do remember it was,  tiny bit tricky only that. 13 years ago..... I restored 3 kicks then. all are 5sp.

hope that helps you .  good luck ! and happy trails.
btw . if on car fully together , if  you try to move the shaft left and right , it will have free play,  but not up and down that is bad BUSH.
The shaft is auto centered, by actions of the tight fit of the Tout bearing on the TRANNY snout end. 
any play felt L/R would be the TOut fork tangs, or the TOout collapsing as all LOVE TO DO when Bad, 100k miles or more or drivers that right the clutch full time.
This is a WYSIWYG event, you drop the box and go, gee all is ok, or you see,  omg,  the PP cracked and sent flying metal chucks and wrecked the XYZ.(FATE WINS)
No man (mortal) can tell you what will  be then, at the drop, your shop will tell you , more parts may be needed, and is NO LIE.  what will be , WILL BE.

96-98 range, 95 older slightly different, for sure #7 is newer in 96. so if last guy used 95 trans in 96 again WYSIWYG )as are cables super different with lower rubber slip mount! 96+

(01-30-2020, 01:53 AM)sina27 Wrote: Thanks for the reply - I will try and take a photo. 
To answer some of your questions:
The current cable I am running on my 96 is indeed the "rubber mount" version. It is the Beck Arnley 093-0642, which was recommended by your website (thank you!)
I ordered a genuine suzuki cable which is on its way, part 23710-57B12.
So my cable is correct. 

The creaking sound is definetly not TO bearing. It is possible that my cable is not routed correctly - the cable routes downwards, clamps a few inches away from the power steering belt, and then routes under the radiator (the radiator has a built in cable holder which the cable sits in). Maybe the cable is shifting around at the bottom of the radiator? I can try and reinforce the cable with some zip ties down there. I'll try and take a photo

The creaking sound seems to be from some sort of incorrect tension somewhere around the clutch shaft / actuator, the creaking sound is only heard when i press in the clutch and depress it slowly; if i hold the clutch in halfway, no sound is heard. So it could be the cable, cable routing, or improper cable mounting. 

Now for the most important thing - what you call the "titty mark" at the clutch actuator / clutch shaft - so I understand that the factory aligned them as so:
https://fixkick.com/tranny/clutch/mikes-clutch91/shrunk/html/image_7.html
A couple years ago before I bought this car, the trannny was rebuilt and a new clutch was installed by a mechanic . When I inspected the "titty mark", the alignment was WAY off, and an arbitrary mark was drawn on the clutch shaft by the mechanic inidicating thats where the "new" alignment should be. If I were to remove the actuator and install it according to the original factory titty mark, the actuator would be WAY off (it wouldnt be perpindicular to the bell housing) and the clutch would not be able to engage. 
Does that mean that something was installed incorrectly during the tranny rebuilding process? Should I resort to removing the transmission, and replacing the shaft, TO bearing, actuator, spring, etc..?
I'm just trying to wrap my mind around how the clutch shaft is initially aligned during installation in the first place..

I quickly made a drawing of what I mean about the clutch actuator: Your photo linked about shows the actuator angled away from the front of the car - is this how it should be in its relaxed position? Is it angled that far left just before it comes into contact with the TO bearing? 
If I remove my clutch cable from the actuator and let it relax, it looks like this (look at the green line, the actuator is angled very slighty towards the front of the car. [/url]
[url=https://imgur.com/a/cyowjVG]https://imgur.com/a/cyowjVG


So if my lever is angled to forward, then when I press in the clutch the lever may move too far forward and cause excess tension, correct? Maybe I should angle the actuator like how you have it shown in the image

(01-30-2020, 05:17 AM)sina27 Wrote: Thanks. 
I will try and re-adjust the lever by eye for the time being, and if that fails I guess I will try and install a new clutch myself (the brand you recommended), and while I'm doing that I might as well replace the TOB and the clutch shaft part number 5, as well as the two nylon bushings, and the spring that shaft sits in

(01-30-2020, 08:05 AM)sina27 Wrote: IAfter taking a look I’m convinced that the problem is internal in the bell housing, thinking it’s a bent shaft.  In addition to the clutch & TO bearing (which I'll order from US) -  I'm going to order the shaft, lever (lever spline doesnt look great), TO pin, shaft spring, shaft bushings from megazip.
Never done something like this before, so hopefully I get it right. If you think theres anything I left out please let me know!

Here is the list of stuff I'm going to order (clutch & bearing not listed):
https://imgur.com/a/Kshs4Fk

cheers!