My Sidekick or Tracker  91' to 2010+ throttle body  and TV the throttle Valve                      
The "NINCOMPOOP"  violated or better molested, my idle stop screw...
Now I can't get my idle below 800 RPM HOT. (or ISC is not regulating idle properly due to this massive illegal leak of air)
For 1989/90 hit the home button above.


Starting in 1991, and newer we now have and idle bleed screw, to fiddle, and we set idle dutycycle that way.
We only touch this screw for 1989/90's . never newer. or you must correct that some way, below.

You are here because:
DTC 44? ERRORS. (FLASH CODES) or other related to idle or RPM.
Idle controls dead.?
The timing set freeze  DLC jumper fails to freeze spark timing, because idle is out of control. (a FSM procedure)
With this set wrong, the TPS calibration is hopeless.
The throttle sticks.?
The idle speeds are  insanely high  over >>>? 1500 is normal cold , 800 hot.? or out of control?
With the ISC blocked (air hose pinched) RPM is not 400 rpm but over 800. oops this is wrong. (find the leak now)
If I block the ISC and closed the TB air bleed, the engine still runs? that dead wrong, or there are vacuum leak to the induction plenum or intake manifold. The car is a danger to drive for you and others on the road !!!
Never attempt to hide vacuum air leaks using this SCREW, EVER! (you will only make it worse)
If your screw is unmolested, then never ever Touch it. (be safe , please!)
The 8v has white paint there and plastic cap, on it to show if it has been attacked, the 16v has a metal tab blocking it.

SAFETY FIRST:
  1. If your  throttle body stop screw were molested, replace it at $1200 costs, from Suzuki.  end story , zero risk... (my recommendation !)
  2. If you like risk and trust your own work?, then set the gap to .0005" this will flow almost zero air flow.. (SAFE)
  3. If  the throttle Return spring is broken see #1
  4. If your throttle cables (1 to 3) do no have the 10mm slack per FSM spec, and calibration, stop and correct that NOW.
  5. If your mechanic (blindly) removed the TPS and put it back, not indexed as the FSM clearly states, then the throttle will fail and idle speed can exceed 3000 rpm , a danger to everyone.
  6. If your cars engine goes out of control , shift to neutral, if car has no air bags? turn the key off, not lock.
  7. If the throttle cable is rusty , buy a new one, rust has NO LIMITS on earth nor will the throttle return spring over power this RUST. EVER. (and RUST always gets worse not better by magic)
  8. If you floor mats are loose and hits the throttle pedal  then get rid of them.  (or have a pro mechanic screw them down or whatever) this is YOUR job , as mine came new with no such devices, (mats)
  9. Do not drive with loose soda or water bottles in the drivers foot wells.  (DANGER ) Remove all that crap near drivers feet and under his seat. and WIN !
  10. Inspect the Throttle body spring, for rust .  Do not ignore this rust, same with brake lines.
  11. Throttle cables, kinked? (up to 3 cables there, all can kink and jam and all are very unsafe in that state) (or frayed inside where you can't go or ever see?) Causes throttle jams.
You do not use  my page. (here) unless you agree that it is  your responsibility to do this  gap steps  correctly.
Keep in mind, that if the gap is too , tight the TV can stick, causing the driver to over-react to that and use too much throttle!
My full recommendation to you is buy a new THROTTLE body.
The below is for offload usage and only for pulling tree stumps only. Not for on road use ever.

The
Jaguar Cars WAY late 90s,  to happiness:  Jag uses .001" gap here. "I recommend .0005""  SUZUKI and GM are 100% MUTE on this SPEC. (I think mute is unsafe!)
Most car makers are mute here, because they think (rationally) you will have illegal fast idle and will crash and then do class-action lawsuits (like here $1.2Billion +  lawsuits)
A Rare graphic photo. very rare... out of JAG FSM it is....
With the fly plate closed fully, this is no real source of air and all air comes from the ISC /IAC valves and the Bleed valve.  91-98.
If you fail here, the ISC is rendered useless. and other tests,  timing, freeze dead.
A Parting shot:
I have had many throttle spring failures, since 1965.  I cut the key fast.  (good drivers ed' then, huh?)
And many times on many motor cycles. (they are worse , rain water freely falls on cables etc.)
Until they went to push-pull throttle cables (2 of them) and double CARB return springs.
Now you know why we have THROTTLE  BY WIRE now..... for the helpless, and the untrained drivers. ("cut key, or shift to neutral , and do not panic")

The shift to Neutral keeps your air bags working, so..... there you are.... (why not practice this, pretend in drive way parked and running in drive, yell PANIC
and bump the shifter to Neutral,  can be done easy under 1 second flat, repeat this skill until it's second nature and WIN.
OLD CARS and some cars this part is no longer sold new.
My last point is the gap can vary, if the main shaft bushing are worn, you may need a wider gap to keep the butterfly plate for jamming,,,,,,  wear happens, i can NOT PREDICT your car or your wear factors. (no man on earth can... ever)
But can say,  get it closed and not sticking, by testing it 100 times, by hand.  (your skills , not mine)!!!!!
More data points , and facts learned the hard way:
If you pour water in the bore hole, (in hand and with dash pot retracted) water does not pass the TV to bore edge juncture. It's water tight.
Tested on many  TB we have. (repeated now by many)
And is said to be 99.9% air tight.
Again, Suzuki is mute...... so all this is your risk.  (set it to .0005" test it for jamming, if it sticks 1 in a 100, set it  to .001" see?
Many experts agree (i'm not) that the factory uses a flow bench setup to set this gap. (some very small air flow, "tiny" and Suzuki's little SECRET)

This is the data I took of many good and unmolested TV. (Throttle bodies)  HACK #2
The 8 Valve TBI only: (collected data, this section is only DATA , not advice.... )
The casting size variances can effect the results here, and only forms a back drop of data.

We do not ever touch the 1st screw below,  and  if all else fails we might fiddle #2 (ISC)
  1. Butterfly valve screw (with jam nut)    NEVER Touch this.  IT is a factory setting.  Aka: Throttle stop screw ,Factory Minimum air
  2. The #2 ISC hex screw,  I'd not adjust this factory setting  ,unless its the last resort.
The below is a factory set throttle stop , make sure it is not FIDDLED WITH,  and is as shown below.  The paint on the screw is IN TACT.

  • The butterfly valve is set to 0.246 as follows:  ( the one with a jam nut)  (this measurement is crude due to casting differences)   See JAG way above !
  • To inspect this stop screw on car,  a tad hard  (my photo is of one fully dismantled) but you might do it by using calipers blindly.
  • Turn  Engine off,  put a vacuum tool to the  Dash-Pot nipple, and  pump until DashPot  retracts.(or remove whole Dashpot , 2 screws)
  •  Adjust the screw, so gap (at 12pm) below screw is 0.246".  Then set jam nut.
  •  Done!    ECU will now be happy forever.
  • TBI below is missing top half of TB .
SCREW #1  Factory set, see the paint?

Nincompoop 2:
Screw 2:  ISC idle speed controller , below, adjustments:   (old name IAC electric as marked.)  HACK 3:  the 5mm Allen screw hack.
 The only reason to touch this screw 5mm Allen, is if the ISC leaks air,  if yes, turn it just tiny bit CW.

This hot idle setting is really Dutycycle calibration, It is only an  air bleed screw.  We set the bleed rate to 50% duty cycle using a meter at the 2 ISC pins. (or with any scope made)



16Valves. MPI: 1.6L ONLY ! This is not FACTORY DATA or FACTS its , bench testing  (HACK 4)
This is the magic factory gap. (averaged from 5  throttle bodies)
about 1 1/4 turns from zero clearance with the screw.
TB needs to be removed and inverted.

0.200 inches. (just avg. data. use a feeler gauge inside) AGAIN, this is CRUDE, use the Jag rule above.
Dial slipped as I took the photo.

Parting shot:
Close the valve 100% with the screw, such that, it holds water, but the fly edge does not actually hit the Throttle bore. (there for can not jam)
After doing the above, calibrate the TPS last,  as the above changed the TPS calibration, for sure.

More screwed again...

The ISC can be fiddled just like the 8v. only when you know it's bad and seat is worn and it leaks when electrically closed ( cant make it worse so have at it).

The 16v idle bleed screw, is here.



Suzuki Sport 1.8L Idle stop screw  (yes, don't touch it) but if the other goon did.... well..... HACK #5 J18 engines.
we only have this one photo. and one set of data. (not mine, a contributor...) Uses at your one risks.


So it sticks out 0.063" below. (math) this is our only fact useful here... again, suzuki is 100% MUTE on this topic.
Adjust the screw until it reads 0.563" as shown.
We have only 1 data point (1 sample of this) so , no averages like mine above.   ( someone said ,"what is data point?", well, it's just 1 measurement off one used car)
If was desperate , I'd start here than set the fly plate to bore gap at .001" with a feeler gauge and above starting point.

Please someone, anyone measure the stock bore gap on any 1.8L Sidekick or Esteem. J18. engine.
so far no data...
The bore gap is the key best fact and I have no data on that....


The 1.8L idle bleed screw is here.


Jargon.  FSM is a factory Service manual , the real books from Suzuki, not those silly rags sold in all auto stores, The REAL DEAL.
More Jargon is here.


rev :5--------------- 4-1-2013  Use this page at your own risk , see all risks above there are many.  I wish you all to be safe.



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