THE IGNITION Static TIMING FREEZE, FOR ALL Sidekick's & Trackers  (USA  and others )

I use artistic free license to use my own name , "FREEZE"  as that is what it does to the spark timing advance software, inside the ECU brain.
The old Suzuki's calls it the "TEST SWITCH" ( clear as a bell, huh?, so I use a  more modern name)  See History here:

Use a Paper Clip , re-bent to a "U" shape..  No plastic clips nor painted clips allowed, it must conduct electricity (  that is, be clean metal , with no varnish or paint)
Place the jumper, start the car , set static base timing, at idle, on hot motor. (180F + is hot)
If you don't do this, timing NATURALLY varies at all times !.  ( If that happens it makes setting static timing, impossible)
Dynamic timing is 100% ECU/PCM controlled.
There are may ways for the jumper to be ignored. 
SUZUKI MOVED THIS CONNNECTOR AT LEAST 5 TIMES.  (battery side, R/F head light, left strut tower, then is gone to the scan tool only, last gone totally !
The connector called the Diagnostic Logic Connector , DLC for short (SAE names)  See related Diagnostic page.

The 8 Valve  EFI 1991-1995   (1989/90' there is no timing freeze  jumper at all ("test switch term" )
Those two first years; the Distributor, is a Stand alone device and the ECU does not do spark timing at all.

1991 to 1995 (or later outside USA)
Located in the Engine bay, in front of the battery. It had a rubber cover , cap.
The DLC:  (as you can see, that Pin B, is the Diagnostic jumper.)
Pin D , is freeze.  This  conn. has  an index tab , see it? that shows you the Pin A/B end.
Drawing 1:

DLC2 (engine bay) For FREEZE only.
Below the G16  1.6L EFI systems, 1992-2003   Left/Right  means from the drivers perspective.
All G16 engines have this, but moved 3 times. First next to battery, then R/F head light 1996 and in 1999 moved to left front strut tower, (engine bay all)
J18 engines in 1996-1998 (called Suzuki Sport)  are all on LF (left front) strut.
J20 enigines same 1999 to 2003. Then moved to scan tool (factory)
J25/J27 engines, same. as J20
See the LF strut tower.  and stays there until 2003. for all engines.

Click the photo below to see  more details.   

DLC: J18 (or others) Jump pins 4 to 5.  Drawing #2

Freeze fail:
The Freeze Jumper does not work correctly,and  my timing keeps jumping (bouncing) like crazy.
Why?  The top reason is TPS not calibrated or TV valve hacking or clogs. Seen here,  and see the nincompoop section.
Do not panic.
The problem is real and common, the ECU sees a major fault. (I will mark each as theory (if is) as SUZUK is never 100% clear on SOFTWARE (ECU firmware)
The following failures will cause this problem: In ORDER.
  • TPS  switch is  bad or not closed at idle. (simple TPS calibration is easy)  set it for 300 ohms or less.  A COMMON FAIL. The idle switch pin must be near 0 volts.!!!
  • The TB throttle bore is blocked with carbon or GUNK.
  • The Dashpot on top left rear side of the Throttle body TBI engine, 8v only,  is stuck active. (repair this first) It will cause TPS to fail (when good)
  • The ENGINE is not HOT, the themostat is bad  180F+ is the spec temperature of the coolant or Hotter.
  • The RPM is not 750-850 spec . RPM and regulating. The ISC is not working not regulating,.
  • The A/C switch is signaling High Idle falsely. (all accessories must be OFF) Cause 1000 RPM (200 rise) and would fail the 800 RPM rule.  The
  • You Automatic transmisson Park/neutral switch is failure, signaling IN GEAR , falsely. (A/T car) this can upset the ISC and idle. (theory)
  • ECU is faulting , forcing Limphome or BackUp mode, no idle controls in this mode. (first repair all ECU input devices.)
  • The ECU has LIVE DTC errors. Correct this first,  as idle speeds will be wrong for many. for sure TPS errors.
  • Power steering high idle switch is signaling PS pump overload , falsely.  1000 RPM is what this does, just like A/C (bad P/S pressure switch) [rare] or its wire fell off touching frame?
  • On the early (89/90) TBI cars, there are other high idle up modes on theECU ,  like headlights on, and blower on. turn off all electrical loads, and A/C.
  • One more theory,  not tested, by me, is say your 1995 TBI engine has this huge vacuum leak and idle speed is 1200+, just for this leak, no other faults. the FREEZE will fail. (theory) 850 max. rule !
If the TPS can not be calibrated, this must be corrected first.
The Freeze jumper fails on purpose for 2 reasons,  the EPA does not want you to drive car with this jumper in place, so the idle switch , open, (car is moving) the freeze is  ignored and normal timing happens like magic.
The 2nd reason is if the freeze held, driving, the CAT converter would melt. a $600 error. So it cancels, the second the TPS opens.
The 1996 to 2003 cars, set a DTC error if you level the freeze in place. After 2004 they ended the Freeze. 

History of the freeze jumper. 1999+  (the timing normally jumps radically at hot idle; to cut smog, save fuel, and to control idle speed (quicker that any ISC  can)
Suzuki did move  the DLC  5 times 1989 to 2005.   the DLC ended when the body was no longer used, starting in 2006 and all engines were V6 in USA (Vitara and Grand V). J20 dropped.

THE Vitara TWIN CAM ENGINES, UP to 2006:  J18/J20/H25 AND H27 ENGINES.
Rule 1: if you have no slot, the engine  has no spark timing, it's fixed now. until present. 2006 to forever. 
If you have the slot, below ? , try to avoid messing with this screw and body placements, and if the CMP is bad replace just the black sensor seen in photo 1 and 2.
If you must adjust it , the DLC is located on the top of the left front strut. Pins 4 to 5 freeze jumped, same as the above G16 engines. (same way)
Photo 1:
J20 1999+  See the black plastic sensor?, SUZUKI does not sell it, until 2006; when the Aluminum body is no longer used. 
1999 and newer J20s.

This part below is sold by Aftermarket, makers. to fit above body. ( has it)

Photo2:  If the sensor is bad, replace it and leave the body alone above.  On 2006 + Vitara's, there is no body. aluminum body. sells them but never suzuki until 2006

Sliding it in, now. Photo 3:  J20 engine. 1999 to 2004 Vitara's (all) If your engine has the adjustable body and the FREEZE is only in the SCAN tool (my 2004 is like that) then never ever touch this screw clamp. (you can't buy a tool in any store to correct that.error)

Photo 4: The J18 and all H25/H27's look like this. (below)
There is not any, SUB CKP sensor (left rear of cam seen in hand above)   CAS, cam angle sensor , alt. name.   1996-1998 sport and all V6 up to 2005.
 In 2006+ the V6 sensor looks like photo 2. (04 below H25 actual)  As you see the whole thing must be replaced on these engines if bad.  If you have the black rear cover seen below.

Last is the J18 photo : 1996-98 SPORT Sidekick. Note the back side of the CMP is a black plastic dish like cup.  This has no descrete removable CMP sensor. Like the J20 has.

9-2009 version 3
11-4-2012 version 2,  added noob stuff and the freeze fail.
3-20-2015 version 4 added all years, all versions and history. I think I nailed this.?  Removing the DLC2 was the dumbest of all things, by Suzuki, x10 that now chapter11. Dang me.