| Capacitor source: Called CAP.'S for short ! ALL bad caps that fail, are shaped like tiny garbage cans, CYLINDERS. Never like gumdrops or discs or other shapes. This is no complete list, you can read the sides of your caps and , go to Mouser.com and buy Nichicon Caps high temp cap's. Kick the Rubicons to the curb if seen. (black caps usually are just that) For sure replace the ECU corner cap, the largest one on board. It can leak, dry out, crack , split or just go to zero 0 uF. and that be pure hell for any Car owner. 16v example. your Cnnn codes will be different. These are just examples. (good subs for 50uf are 56uf, or 68uf) and if the voltage is 50v , 63volts is great. Here are great 63v choices.... c111 100uf@63v USE THIS FOR 16Valve ID. C103 (100uf @50v is ok , in a pinch) c103 (next important) 47uf@63v USE THIS FOR 16Valve ID. C101. c101 22uf@50v not used on 16valve. Rules of thumb, or shooting from the hip: Can you dig it? Some 1995 16v ECU has non black CAP'S. if so, they are probably good. Some 89/90 has a whole bank of orange tiny or yellow caps in the center, I'd bet they are good. Any good meter can test them, but need to be remove to measure, so..... I see lots of blue caps , and they never fail. (as rule of thumb, as we all know, any can in fact fail) To me, I replace all back caps with Ruby marks on the cases, no matter what. I hate being stranded for dumb old cap.'s. The Caps marked Nichicon very are good. New CAPS are Imbossed, X, Y, K on top that means (New DESIGN) The OLD caps are all flat top (no X top) CAPS. If the cap ruptures, we want it to do that to the top , not the bottom, like old Rubicons did, and eat up critical traces. Most caps have a design life of 20 years. in fact my Nichicon have 5000 hr rating at 105C. I'd bet no old Rubycon could ever do that magic trick ! BTW: all Electrolytic caps are the weak link in the chain of electronics. they fail first. All pro rebuild shops, kick them out, as matter of principle. If you see the caps solder pads with flux on them, that means it was replaced, beause the new ECU did not have flux there. If you see the conformal coating removed on the pads, that too, means, replaced already. If no flux now, that means repair person did good work. The flux is amber , to brown, the conformal coat, is milky transperant. If you see a top name, NEC, Panasonic,Nichicon, on the side, most times they are good. Any top Japanese brand names are all good. No name or missing any LOGO's is a bad sign. See my CAPSPEC list here. The next link, primes your pump. ready , set , go ! Here is my best search method at Mouser , the high temperature rated and , long life , low ESR search by Brand. c105 ( if you see those gum-drop Tantalums, leave them be !, as they are quality devices those TANTS) 68uf@10v. 16valve are 33uf @25v. 140-HTRL16V100-RC All 1989 through 1995 'ECU's /TCMs like to fail just one time, after you put in the new quality caps, it will never fail. (IMO) The newer 1996+ do not fail , yet. < (not one poster on my forum told of this...) Clean the PCB with water and bicarb soda mix, diluted , just at the leaking points under CAPS, I just use a Qtip. I put the mix is a soda pop bottle cap and did that out... Clean flux with pure alcohol. (just at your new solder points) The PCB (card) has a conformal coating, looks like wax. You must scrape it off the copper soldered pads "EYES" (bottom) to get parts unsoldered and the resoldered. rev5. (8-3-2003) better links. better series, added UPJ |
