How to make your own , , pressure brake bleeder:

The Home made Semi-Pro PRessure bleeded.
Go to Suzuki and buy pn: 51220-60A20  (brake MC cap 96-98 is my example, ask for your year PN)

Flushes brakes out 100% no fooling around and no air bubbles anywhere ( good for ABS for sure).

I used a Ace garden sprayer of a 2 quart capacity. (  ACE stopped selling it , rats !)
 or from Janitorial supply house or for green house usage and a nursery.

Top sparyer Hudson Rose & Garden™ model 60136 here, at  Amazon cheap. $17

 Anything larger and you will have to use more brake fluid.

This one works well with a one quart size brake fluid bottle, which is enough to flush and bleed just about any system.

First I chopped the spray wand off close to the handle. Then in a three way block I installed a pressure gauge and two hose barbs. One hose barb goes to the hose I just chopped, and I ran another three foot section of clear tubing to the cap, from the other hose barb.

To attach the cap I used another hose barb and drilled a hole in the cap. (stock Suzuki cap)
 I sandwiched two washers and two o-rings between the hose barb and pipe adapter, which is screwed on to the hose barb.
You might have to use a different method to seal the hose barb to the cap.  RTV sealant?
 It needs to hold about 20 PSI of pressure max. (that is not a working pressure just max designed for pressure).

Once everything is sealed pour the brake fluid in the container and pump the handle until you get to 5 psi  ( 2 psi may be all you need )

Start low and work higher in presssure, see end of this page for problems.

Do not pump too high, or you might blast the Reservoir TANK, off  the MC base nipples (they are only friction held)

Start with the LEFT  rear and put a piece of clear tubing over the bleeder screw. Open the bleeder screw and watch the old fluid rush out.
You can usually see the change in color, indicating that you have flushed the line clean with new fluid. ( and the end of bubbles)

After the LEFT  rear proceed to the (no right rear bleed) the right front, and finally the left front. Not all cars are the same order (like on Miata's MX5)
 Depending on the size of your brake system you shouldn't have to pump the bleeder to add pressure. A typical SIDEKICK will only use about 5 PSI to do the whole car including the clutch. To clean up, use a half a bottle of denatured alcohol to flush out the brake fluid, from the Flush KIT.

After using this, I will never bleed my brakes the old fashioned way.
 It's also less hassle than the vacuum type bleeders, as you never need to worry about adding fluid.
You can buy a pressure bleeder for about $50 and then each cap is about another $10-$15.
 I built this for about $30 dollars including the cap.
To use on a different vehicle, all that's required is to use a different cap, which can be purchased at almost any local autoparts store. Or the Dealer.!

Any 20 PSI guage will work .  Even 10 PSI,  I use about 5psi max but would go to 10 max if I had to.
Pro shops use a pro tool just like this, so this is no hackers way, it's only using off the shelf cheap tank, the CAP modifications can get tricky.


Some cars the brake fluild vent is in a  funny spot or hidden well., making tool above useless.
Some the gasket in the cap leaks air.
or there is a hidden vent in the cap,  with a test cap, plug any vents.
trick 2 is to make a gasket from soft plastic , cut 1/2 wider that lid, put a hole in the new gasket in the center then put the extra gasket on the cap.
Then when you tighten down the cap, you get a 100% seal.
I  only use about 2 PSI.
I think the best cap is to stip out all gaskets and mount the barb fitting then seal that good with gaskets or o-rings.
Then make a custom gasket from rubber or neoprene stock.
Some caps have a baffle in the lid, I had to defeat the vent in the baffle.

The last and best solution is this, and is very very good.  
GET THE :Phoenix V-12 Brake Bleeder Kits   $67
Use a $1 turkey baster wand to suck the MC dry. (Dollar store, ask wifey-poo to get 2 )

There are 6 ways to bleed brakes, but I use, Vacuum (if fail) then my ACE tank, if fail , then Phoenix.
Gravity way, is too slow and fails all the time.  Air bubbles rise up high and dont float down hill, Sorry "there is no gravity the earth sucks."
2 man way,  a PITA But does work.
Hose and check valve at bleed nipple,  (works but likes to fall off and then suck in air, then nice children out side learn new cuss words.......
Pressure way 1 , tank  "top down"
Pressure way 2, at nipples. (bottoms up)  Just like we like our woman.
Vacuum way,  I do like this and the trick is suck like crazy and ignore the bubbles you see and then do 2 man way to prove there is no air in system as a QA.
There is no ONE WAY !