X90 friendly?

[High Arctic Si]

Hello High Arctic Si, did you ever have a chance to check the crank key to see if it is not shredded? if the key is intact, re-install crank snout at 94 ft/lbs and if the marks line up then your timing should be fine. If the car runs, it cannot be off by too much, like fixkick says on his pages, the best way to investigate timing being off is by using the timing light, I marked the crank pulley on all 4 firing points and watched it as it cranked, only then I found out I was timing my distributor wrong, but in my case my Tracker would not even start.

I also found spark issues with hesitation, P0300's, bogging, etc. I bought an used distributor (matching code numbers and everything) installed it but it never landed in the same position when I dropped it in like the one in my car did, I always wondered if the small gear at the bottom of the distributor slipped off its original position.

Did you carefully check all your wiring leading up to the distributor? no loose wires at the base of the plug that connects to the distributor base? wiring in our cars SUCK!

Sorry just rambling my thoughts here, I never had P0340 before (knock on wood) I wish I could be of more help.

No i have not checked out the crank key yet, I have a new water pump, timing belt and tensioner to put on there i will have a look when i get into that.
I wonder if a shredded crank key would cause the mostly terrible occasionally ok running condition of my car.

I have not done the run through with the multimeter yet, i was close to it yesterday, but was not prepared with proper pointy instrument to backprobe the connectors.

What gets me is how well the car seems to run after it comes out of a heated garage, good running is maintained until cool down time and then restarts means the return of all troubles.

cold idle control valve, did not, in the end improve cold starts for me either. all that work for no gain.

Spent the night researching cam and crank sync. timing light shows all good, perhaps i have misled myself into thinking all is well in the timing department, but I continue to second guess myself. I guess its time to take off the belt cover and take a look.

And then check the wiring related to the cam position sensor to ensure all is in spec.

I will solve this problem.

thanks for your thoughts

[High Arctic Si]

After working circles around the issue,

I have made the p0340, p1715 and p0300 go away!

Just to let everyone know, the trouble arose with the p1715 faulty neutral safety switch, I never pulled the code for that one, but it happened months ago going through a pile of ice slush at that time i ran a wire from the stater to the battery area in order to start the car. open the hood touch the wire and away i went. I alao removed the black wire going to the starter because it was in the way of my makeshift hot wire.

When replacing the exhaust system recently I fiddled with the neytral safety switch in an attempt to remove and replace it. I could not get the damn thing off so I reconnect the cable which operated the switch and figured i would get to that after i fixed the other issues.

So I replaced the distributor, no joy. replaced the throttle body. didint help the poor cold starting bad idle.

Now Iam preparing to do the electrical checks and get into the FSM and read about trouble shootin the P0340 and to my surprise I discover that the neutral safety switch is connected to the cam positon sensor and the starter circuits! Imagine, 3 troubles all related.

SO first things first I remove my jumper hot wire and reconnect the black wire to the starter get in the cab and turn the key and BINGO

Starts right up no more misfire and its all a go.

I learned a lot. Just from one little wire.

Too bad I melted my new cat and now the car is a little slow on the uptake and I think Its blowing a litle bit of exhaust from the header gasket as it whistles a little when i give it gas and some exhaust fumes wiff up form under the manifold cover, i guess the pressure has to go somewhere right.

But all things are moving forward.

Thanks for the input and advice, I will continue to use this forum as I strive to maintain my little "truck".

I hope others can learn from my experience.

Check the little things and dont let the trouble pile up.

[fixkick]

340s should only be (crank key or cam key nor timing belt loose) a bad DIZZY CMP or the wires to it (and ECU bad, but i don't believe any ECU fails here)
the step you skipped is compression.... all new kicks new to your the home, do
1: check crank bolt torque day 1 , must be 94-ft/lbs not if below 50lbs. below is a very bad idea.
2: check compression at #1 cycl. must bet 150psi or more.. 180 is the warm normal. at wide open throttle (near) if way low?, do all 4 cylinders.. (id do them all )
3: the sneak-a-peek test, fast easy way to see if timing is off... the stick test is good too. but can be off by 10deg.
http://www.fixkick.com/t-belt/sneak-a-peek.html
4: that fuse box, is it under hood at fender?. yes, those wires are main power to the whole car. if bad, all hope lost, the box is still sold by suzuki new, cheap, (amazing)

ABS is fuse 2. fender box. fuse 1 and fuse 3 and 7 are there wires are extremely critical to running engine , EFI ,, ECU and spark.
http://www.fixkick.com/power-elect/96fuse-map.jpg

ouch ,what was spark timing before the dizzy swap? this error now, tells the degree of cam/crank slip. lost data....
yes, back probing the ECU is real hard, near impossible. the connectors are to rear and very hard to reach. id not do it. it check the sensors only.

ECT chart is here, 0F (zero){-17C} is 11500 ohms, (unplugged) hot engine is about 300 ohms. colder is higher Ohms. 300 is near 180F so engine can run in warm mode.
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/temp-sensors.html


gotta fix 340s, it will never run right with 340s. you must find true cause of 340s (not saying i know what, but is serious for sure.)
keep in mind it can be false. if the timing belt or keys loose. the timing will jump all over and cause the ECU to mis-report 340s... it expects consistent timing or linear up and down rate changes...(via throttle)
it timing bounces, it thinks the tooth pulse (CMP ) is missing. (my theory) and if true has nothing to do with the Dizzy.. (itself)
that crank bolt. is key, no pun.

may of these old cars Had a bad crank key at one time, and the fix was jury rigged in. (huge list of tricks, some are horrid)


i think gorkyb dizzy gear, some one put it on 180 deg off, it has 13 teeth and is not symmetrical. must be marked before take off that locking pin
http://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/slides...b1w%29.jpg
note rotor tip, and gear teeth and pin relation ships. here. and the china rotor syndrome that fits on 3 ways, add those 3 and the 2 pin gear ways, and
huge ways to mess up. (the gear on the end has a relation ship to the hidden, hall sensor tooth, and most not be violated.)
in all cases of wrong fitment above line, spark is hot and good., correct out of coil but not to the spark plugs.(distribution errors)

the 340s. the ecu sees a chain (square wave) of signals. fire, fire , fire, fire,fire, fire , fire, fire,
if it (ECU) sees, fire, fire , fire, fire,nothing, fire , fire, fire, (BAM, 340s) for any reasons.
A: a bad dizzy is rare , for 340s, it's reliable to the extreme, this hall sensor, IT IS.
b: lost, or loose DC 12v power to DIZZY pin. (fender fuse box to cab box and then to dizzy ,every inch must be good)
c: lost, or loose ground to same. (has special dizzy base ground lugs , see them.? G102? see my bad ground page and 96+ list of photos.
http://www.fixkick.com/my96-16v/dizzy-gnd1w.jpg
http://www.fixkick.com/my96-16v/ECU-ground1.jpg

d: lost, or loose, cmp wire. to same.
e: timing belt doing wild gyrations for any reasons. (all 100% mechanical) (theory and must be extreme)

you have salt corrosion damage, there are many places to check on car for that.
http://www.fixkick.com/Good_Bad_Ugly/com...lures.html

This side kick uses body and engine grounds in a way that invites failure.. (saves copper ) but invites salt induced , corrosion damage and EFI failure.

[High Arctic Si]

Well, I did do the compression test on initial timing check about 2 weeks ago. Compression was good 185 185 180 180, timing was good too, i adjusted it only 2degrees at that time.

when i did the distributor swap i pulled the old one off at #1 firing or thereabouts noted its positon and slipped the new distributor in same way. took it over to the shop with the timing light and it was at 10 degrees, so i wound it down to 5 and all is well.

I did the majority of this work outside at -30c in the dark as it is dark season now so no sunrise till february.

It wasnt until I was preparing to do my electrical testing, after careful examination of the FSM did i realize i should put the starter wire back on and go from there.

The car immediately went from flashing SEL, obvious misfire and only 100 to 130kms per tank of fuel,and glowing cat running condition to a smooth running high idle on cold start up, better fuel consumption, before I could literally watch the needle drop in a 15km commute. prior to my trouble i was getting 350 kms to about 40ltrs of fuel.

Car seems fine.

Except now iam pretty sure the cat is toast and it has cause an exhaust leak at the manifold. good volume of white smoke coming from manifold area on cold stats and a good whooshing noise on acceleration. This I will fix soon, I wonder if I allow the exhaust to flow better if the leak will go away or if i will need to take the manifold off and put new gasket.


You dont think the the little black starter wire was the fix? Nothing else i did really changed much at all. I guess i will know more after a few hundred km's of driving.

Did a visual inspection of all ground and wiggled the crank position sensor. that s all.

I will let you know if things get really bad again.
I will take a look at the crank keyway when i change my timing belt and water pump.

340s should only be (crank key or cam key nor timing belt loose) a bad DIZZY CMP or the wires to it (and ECU bad, but i don't believe any ECU fails here)
the step you skipped is compression.... all new kicks new to your the home, do
1: check crank bolt torque day 1 , must be 94-ft/lbs not if below 50lbs. below is a very bad idea.
2: check compression at #1 cycl. must bet 150psi or more.. 180 is the warm normal. at wide open throttle (near) if way low?, do all 4 cylinders.. (id do them all )
3: the sneak-a-peek test, fast easy way to see if timing is off... the stick test is good too. but can be off by 10deg.
http://www.fixkick.com/t-belt/sneak-a-peek.html
4: that fuse box, is it under hood at fender?. yes, those wires are main power to the whole car. if bad, all hope lost, the box is still sold by suzuki new, cheap, (amazing)

ABS is fuse 2. fender box. fuse 1 and fuse 3 and 7 are there wires are extremely critical to running engine , EFI ,, ECU and spark.
http://www.fixkick.com/power-elect/96fuse-map.jpg

ouch ,what was spark timing before the dizzy swap? this error now, tells the degree of cam/crank slip. lost data....
yes, back probing the ECU is real hard, near impossible. the connectors are to rear and very hard to reach. id not do it. it check the sensors only.

ECT chart is here, 0F (zero){-17C} is 11500 ohms, (unplugged) hot engine is about 300 ohms. colder is higher Ohms. 300 is near 180F so engine can run in warm mode.
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/temp-sensors.html


gotta fix 340s, it will never run right with 340s. you must find true cause of 340s (not saying i know what, but is serious for sure.)
keep in mind it can be false. if the timing belt or keys loose. the timing will jump all over and cause the ECU to mis-report 340s... it expects consistent timing or linear up and down rate changes...(via throttle)
it timing bounces, it thinks the tooth pulse (CMP ) is missing. (my theory) and if true has nothing to do with the Dizzy.. (itself)
that crank bolt. is key, no pun.

may of these old cars Had a bad crank key at one time, and the fix was jury rigged in. (huge list of tricks, some are horrid)


i think gorkyb dizzy gear, some one put it on 180 deg off, it has 13 teeth and is not symmetrical. must be marked before take off that locking pin
http://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/slides...b1w%29.jpg
note rotor tip, and gear teeth and pin relation ships. here. and the china rotor syndrome that fits on 3 ways, add those 3 and the 2 pin gear ways, and
huge ways to mess up. (the gear on the end has a relation ship to the hidden, hall sensor tooth, and most not be violated.)
in all cases of wrong fitment above line, spark is hot and good., correct out of coil but not to the spark plugs.(distribution errors)

the 340s. the ecu sees a chain (square wave) of signals. fire, fire , fire, fire,fire, fire , fire, fire,
if it (ECU) sees, fire, fire , fire, fire,nothing, fire , fire, fire, (BAM, 340s) for any reasons.
A: a bad dizzy is rare , for 340s, it's reliable to the extreme, this hall sensor, IT IS.
b: lost, or loose DC 12v power to DIZZY pin. (fender fuse box to cab box and then to dizzy ,every inch must be good)
c: lost, or loose ground to same. (has special dizzy base ground lugs , see them.? G102? see my bad ground page and 96+ list of photos.
http://www.fixkick.com/my96-16v/dizzy-gnd1w.jpg
http://www.fixkick.com/my96-16v/ECU-ground1.jpg

d: lost, or loose, cmp wire. to same.
e: timing belt doing wild gyrations for any reasons. (all 100% mechanical) (theory and must be extreme)

you have salt corrosion damage, there are many places to check on car for that.
http://www.fixkick.com/Good_Bad_Ugly/com...lures.html

This side kick uses body and engine grounds in a way that invites failure.. (saves copper ) but invites salt induced , corrosion damage and EFI failure.

[fixkick]

sorry I forgot your older post.. on compression... water, bridge, etc...
conclusion all bad wiring. (connections and corrosion, in salt bath , up north, i think they only run salt near just below freezing and way below , none)

the only little black wire at starter is , the ST wire, the key wire, if open, starter is DEAD. (heck any starter wire.)


the main battery ground must go to the starter top bolt, and be real tight or the world goes funky. same with ground behind the battery to body.
my ground page shows them all, (to EFI)


hey , you are really on track with this car. !! good luck.



when i did the distributor swap i pulled the old one off at #1 firing or thereabouts noted its positon and slipped the new distributor in same way. took it over to the shop with the timing light and it was at 10 degrees, so i wound it down to 5 and all is well.

I did the majority of this work outside at -30c in the dark as it is dark season now so no sunrise till February. (OUCH !!!)

It wasnt until I was preparing to do my electrical testing, after careful examination of the FSM did i realize i should put the starter wire back on and go from there.

The car immediately went from flashing SEL, obvious misfire and only 100 to 130kms per tank of fuel,and glowing cat running condition to a smooth running high idle on cold start up, better fuel consumption, before I could literally watch the needle drop in a 15km commute. prior to my trouble i was getting 350 kms to about 40ltrs of fuel.

Car seems fine.

Except now iam pretty sure the cat is toast and it has cause an exhaust leak at the manifold. good volume of white smoke coming from manifold area on cold stats and a good whooshing noise on acceleration.
This I will fix soon, I wonder if I allow the exhaust to flow better if the leak will go away or if i will need to take the manifold off and put new gasket.


You dont think the the little black starter wire was the fix? Nothing else i did really changed much at all. I guess i will know more after a few hundred km's of driving.

Did a visual inspection of all ground and wiggled the crank position sensor. that s all.

I will let you know if things get really bad again.
I will take a look at the crank keyway when i change my timing belt and water pump.