x-90 P0335 code

[CSUSBgeochem1]

Solved now, and passes smog, Ca. an amazing story and took more than one ECU to solve this. (and bad ECU Capacitors again)

Happy New Years Kick!!

I had posted on here about a sidekick that is now running flawlessly and a treat to drive because of your help. My girlfriend loves it so much she purchased an x-90 for a great price. The issue is that the sidekick you helped me with is a 95 and the x-90 is a 96 so a lot changed from the ignition system. The PO informed us of the bog and i was confident in my repair abilities due to it being the same 1.6L 16v motor. Well it threw the P0335 code for the Crank angle sensor and im stumped. I removed the sensor to find a huge carbon build up on it so i cleaned it and stuck it back in. shavings continue to clog the magnet but i have been cleaning it after a few minutes of running. The plug had a frayed connection so i rewired in some small spade connectors used for speakers so i didnt have to pay the $40 for a replacement connector. Its still throwing the p0335 code and im curious where on the ECM i might test continuity for this circuit? i would like to make sure the wiring is fine from the plug back to the ECM.

[fixkick]

hello and welcome !
yes the 96 is all new, all new ECU, OBD2 and ckp sensor is new, to do misfire detection and more.
first off shavings are wrong, (feel them, save them and test with a magnet?)
if not rubber belt shavings inside,?
not metal, or not plastic cut deep not cut deep in the face of the CKP sensors.
2 issues here, besides CPK is dead. (its not the ecu, i bet) nor wires on the way to ecu, unless harnesses are a wreck.?
there must be no pan gasket there, only RTV "GLUE" so the pan fits very close to block and CKP is very close to the tone wheel on the back of the bottom crank belt cog
the crank cogs love to go loose and keyway wrecked, making METAL (cast iron crank) metal shavings, (sharp and needle like shavings) and magnet unlike belt or plastic CKP shavings.
make the crank front bolt 17mm hex head tight, 94ft/lbs, the day you get the car or this happens

http://www.fixkick.com/t-belt/snouts/html/index.html


see the one guy with wronG 16engine, and had a tone wheel of the stinky Esteem engine, hopeless but new cog fixes it. for sidekick trackers.
last photo, is funny , to me but not him I AM SURE.

[fixkick]

one more, aluminum shavings, look like metal but not rubber
is from cog kissing oil pump face.
seen here.,
so we have 4 materials here, Iron (magnetic) rubber, plastic, and last aluminum non magnetic but shinny.
some of these cars, are all 4 there. in mud mess.

the kiss of death here. sorry
http://www.fixkick.com/t-belt/snouts/html/image_8.html


good luck to you !!!!!!!!!!!

[CSUSBgeochem1]

Ok before scanning the computer, after purchase, i wanted to make sure the timing was on so i took it down to the cog. The cog bolt was loose and causing the crank pulley to rub on the plastic timing cover. I removed it to try and see keyway but the cog looked like it was rusted to the crank. I tried to get a puller on it without success so i replaced the bolt and tightened it down to spec. I was never able to inspect the keyway due to the cog stuck on the crank. If you could recommend a puller to try i would be all ears as i have a few different types, but the cog bolts are only m6 x 1.0 so they are quite small.

I have included pictures i was able to scale down to size
The shavings appear to be metallic as they only gather on the magnet of the sensor.
The sensor plug was also damaged so i cut it out and wired in a few small spade connectors in its place.
The sensor tests at 406 ohms and Chilton says thats within spec, What are your thoughts?
The material that clumps on the sensor looks like some of the black stuff in a few of your keyway photos.
As the connector was damaged id like to make sure the wiring back to the ECU is ok so im not sure how to test for continuity.


   

   

[fixkick]

the 335 only tells you it is bad. nothing more, (even intermittent , off time or dead. )
1: cam belt timed wrong. (or loose, or the cog at the bottom is timed wrong, on the crank (key) or is loose or was jerry rigged by using epoxy with no key.
2: bad CKP.
3: wires.
the wires measure 0 ohms each end to and like all wires do.. (using DMM, do not use 50 year old analog meters with 22vdc battery inside on any car made)
the ECU input is not bad it is protected with input resistors and cap filters. leave this alone if the wires are goo there (those 2 colors) leave the ECU end alone.
or risk damaging it and now out $400+ for that. error.

my page shows how to pull the cog, photo 1,
off my page called, tools is this photo, hand made, and a socket to push inside. heat the cog up with propane touch for say 1min. not too hot,just hot to touch like 200f or less. (engine hot temp is 200f) so is safe temp here, the the cog metal expands, and comes off (or get true TDC tool ,2nd photo) (CL to CL means , centerline to centerline. (drafting lingo)






that connector is junk, you can see that. why go past that? finding suzuki connectors. is one of the big challenges. ever. (not sold by them)

i do wish you luck, and for sure hope your crank is not a mess (snout)

[CSUSBgeochem1]

Ok so im in the process of tearing down to the crank cog. Before doing so i checked to see if there was any output from the sensor. The chilton manual states its a simple hall sensor that outputs AC to the ECM. When i wired in the new connectors i did so crudly with simple electrical tape. I did so just encase i wanted to wire in the proper plug.

The sensor is outputing .5 volts at idle and goes up past 1v AC at about 2500-3000. This tells me the sensor itself is working and sending AC voltage to the ECM.
The only other issue would be the cog not lining up correctly. Im going to see what that keyway looks like come hell or high water.

[CSUSBgeochem1]

I was able to get the cog off finally and the key way on this 1.6L looks like it took a beating. Doesnt surprise me when the cog was loose to begin with. The key looks jammed on one end and the keyway looks ok on either side and seems from your page like its repairable.

I noticed one of the teeth on the cog that the crank sensor detects was actually bent quite a bit. Enough that it might not have been detected during motion. I tried to bend it back and it snapped off so now i need to purchase a new crank cog.

The black shavings were belt, but the belt looks fine.

So ill be purchasing a crank pulley kit with key and for the heck of it a timing kit with tensioner.

   
   

[fixkick]

ouch not only beat to death but parked under water in the ocean, wow, never seen so much rust ever,.
a new high water mark (no pun) on damage. wow. UGLY is not bad enough .
thanks for sharing, great photos, all.
good luck fixing that, for sure ,

I was able to get the cog off finally and the key way on this 1.6L looks like it took a beating. Doesnt surprise me when the cog was loose to begin with. The key looks jammed on one end and the keyway looks ok on either side and seems from your page like its repairable.

I noticed one of the teeth on the cog that the crank sensor detects was actually bent quite a bit. Enough that it might not have been detected during motion. I tried to bend it back and it snapped off so now i need to purchase a new crank cog.

The black shavings were belt, but the belt looks fine.

So ill be purchasing a crank pulley kit with key and for the heck of it a timing kit with tensioner.

[CSUSBgeochem1]

Hey kick! so im still waiting on some parts for this repair. decided to do the head gasket as well because i was getting gas in the radiator. Well i had a question for ya. Eventually i would like to turn this 96 x-90 from 2wd to 4wd. Its a 2WD manual transmission and i found a 4WD manual transmission and T-case from a 94 sidekick. If i make sure the 94 comes with the output flange at the rear of the transfer case, will this transmission work or will the 96 ECU throw codes? Is the only thing wired into the 4wd a switch for the light? Any information concerning this would really help. I figured since they were both manual transmissions, the only thing that could be missing is the 4wd switch. Will the computer throw a code if that is missing? Did anything drastic aside from the spline count at the output of the rear change?

[fixkick]

the codes, i think no
but there are lots of 4wd drive part not just a box.
crossmembers. and more. prop shaft front, and new rear.
harness issues, sure.

finding x90 parts is not easy. nor cheap if found.

engine mount and cross member, not the same 4wd
frame is not the same -79e10 = 2wd, frame 79e00 = 4wd, not the same and mounts on it very different.
the transfer case needs to match 96+
the 5speed gear box is not close to same (gears yes, but not much else inside, even shift rails not the same nor output shaft) so 4wd box is needed
and the new rear prop shaft from xfr case to rear
and the new transmission mounts. 4wd,
and the now very rare 4wd front hubs wheel bearing hubs. (or with ABS?)
good luck finding those hubs. (gm has the for huge money)
may key parts not sold by suzuki now,. discontinued..
a front axle main
a front CV axles (easy 3rd party makers)
4wd harnesses (lots of options lots of harnesses there are)
front locking hubs. (axle ends)
some cars with 96+ autotransmission, with missing 4wd switch will not shift right TCM in 96 or PCM newer but is easy to wire up, the switch is there, just wire it up.
Some cars with ABS do not allow ABS to engage in 4wd, so there is that for only ABS cars. Ive no idea what car you have really all options. so i List this.


the rear bumper shows a frame cross member different on 4wd 1996 only, not sure what they mean but is clear in the EPC. part catalog photos.
96 is more easy, in ECU / TCM land
that is my first x90 report, based totally off suzuki documents.

your car is 1996, x90
what transmission.? 5speed box 2wd
so you need a 5speed 4wd box,. for sure, to fit any transfer case
the spline match is on rear of transfer case, or the prop shaft you dont own can fit.
The transfer case changed in 96 with new out put spline count, changed. (and for sure prop shafts)
the prop shaft needed is 1996 , shorter shaft. 4wd,
ive now idea what happens with all parts 1994 (say) 5speed, xfr and prop all 1994 fitted to 96 rear axle. no idea at all or
that is all i can find , good luck in your search.
id find a car with 4wd working, first. in 1996 , a different answer then. this is 2019 and many parts hard to find or super expensive.
cheers !!!