Where to even start?

[k1n3k]

hey guys, new to the forum, but not suzuki's. I'm currently working on the third tracker in my fleet, and boy is it messed up. 

there are multiple problems compounded on each other from what I can tell, mostly previous owner not knowing what was allowed and what was not...

So what I have is a 1993 FED 16v 4 door manual trans sidekick. I believe the engine harness has been swapped and the engine has been swapped, all from different sources. The Diagnostics plug by the battery has 4 pins, i believe the 16v 4 doors came from factory with a 6 pin IIRC. It runs like crap. Limp mode, rough idle when cold and sitting at 3000 RPM, surging idle when warm between 1500 and 2500 RPM. when I picked it up, there was a 1994 FED manual 16v ECU in it, throwing a code 23 for the missing IAT. no problem, I had the old ECU and it was correct for the vehicle. Tossed it in. Code 53. removed and cleaned all of the grounds in the engine bay. code 53.  Took apart the ECU and it had a leaky capacitor and some PCB damage, I repaired the corroded traces and replaced the capacitors (I have electronics experience and have done similar work on many things with great results).

After repair, with the jumper in it started (still ran like crap) and had code 12 and would sit there until you touched the throttle then it would throw code 53.  disconnect the EGRT and threw a 10k resistor in the plug, reset codes by pulling dome light fuse. No change. Disconnected the resistor, reset again. Code 12 until throttle was touched, code 53. Ordered a rebuilt ECU from cardone as this one was pretty hammered with corrosion. Installed new ECU, EGRT connected, code 53 on key on. Disconnected EGRT, install resistor, reset codes, code 53 on key on. Pull resistor, nothing connected to EGRT, Code 53. Test continuity of wire, pass. Check for short to ground, none. Find somewhat sketchy splice for O2 sensor, disconnect. No o2, no EGRT, test fire and get a code 12 even after test drive. Clearly something is messed up here. Still runs like crap.

I talked to previous owner, he fiddled with everything on the throttle body as well. IAC seems to not be able to control idle. reset the bleed screw as per the instructions on this site, just backed off the throttle plate stop to allow it to fully close to troubleshoot the other issues first. Now the idle is down to 1500 and is no longer surging. Better, but not there yet. 

So this is where I'm at. Are there any differences between the wiring harnesses that can cause these issues? There is a deteriorated tag under the windsheild wiper motor on the harness that has some numbers, they are y0fe2-3660-70???? and 2f 37224. I hate to throw money at this vehicle as the engine does smoke a bit and the compression is a tad low. Is this thing a lost cause to get it running decently? I have a VW diesel that I could swap in, but thats sort of a last ditch effort to keep the vehicle from being parted out. Its a decently straight, rust free body and a good interior. 

There is also a thermal switch on the intake that is not connected to anything nor is there a plug to connect to it.

Any help is appreciated, I'm not sure where I should be concentrating my efforts at the moment.

[fixkick]

hey guys, new to the forum, but not suzuki's. I'm currently working on the third tracker in my fleet, and boy is it messed up. 

there are multiple problems compounded on each other from what I can tell, mostly previous owner not knowing what was allowed and what was not...

So what I have is a 1993 FED 16v 4 door manual trans sidekick. I believe the engine harness has been swapped and the engine has been swapped, all from different sources. The Diagnostics plug by the battery has 4 pins, i believe the 16v 4 doors came from factory with a 6 pin IIRC. It runs like crap. Limp mode, rough idle when cold and sitting at 3000 RPM, surging idle when warm between 1500 and 2500 RPM. when I picked it up, there was a 1994 FED manual 16v ECU in it, throwing a code 23 for the missing IAT. no problem, I had the old ECU and it was correct for the vehicle. Tossed it in. Code 53. removed and cleaned all of the grounds in the engine bay. code 53.  Took apart the ECU and it had a leaky capacitor and some PCB damage, I repaired the corroded traces and replaced the capacitors (I have electronics experience and have done similar work on many things with great results).

After repair, with the jumper in it started (still ran like crap) and had code 12 and would sit there until you touched the throttle then it would throw code 53.  disconnect the EGRT and threw a 10k resistor in the plug, reset codes by pulling dome light fuse. No change. Disconnected the resistor, reset again. Code 12 until throttle was touched, code 53. Ordered a rebuilt ECU from cardone as this one was pretty hammered with corrosion. Installed new ECU, EGRT connected, code 53 on key on. Disconnected EGRT, install resistor, reset codes, code 53 on key on. Pull resistor, nothing connected to EGRT, Code 53. Test continuity of wire, pass. Check for short to ground, none. Find somewhat sketchy splice for O2 sensor, disconnect. No o2, no EGRT, test fire and get a code 12 even after test drive. Clearly something is messed up here. Still runs like crap.

I talked to previous owner, he fiddled with everything on the throttle body as well. IAC seems to not be able to control idle. reset the bleed screw as per the instructions on this site, just backed off the throttle plate stop to allow it to fully close to troubleshoot the other issues first. Now the idle is down to 1500 and is no longer surging. Better, but not there yet. 

So this is where I'm at. Are there any differences between the wiring harnesses that can cause these issues? There is a deteriorated tag under the windsheild wiper motor on the harness that has some numbers, they are y0fe2-3660-70???? and 2f 37224. I hate to throw money at this vehicle as the engine does smoke a bit and the compression is a tad low. Is this thing a lost cause to get it running decently? I have a VW diesel that I could swap in, but thats sort of a last ditch effort to keep the vehicle from being parted out. Its a decently straight, rust free body and a good interior. 

There is also a thermal switch on the intake that is not connected to anything nor is there a plug to connect to it.  (no photos , to me , hard to guess this) (YES AC engine overheat switch ) yes. NO AC means useless switch.

Any help is appreciated, I'm not sure where I should be concentrating my efforts at the moment.

engine harness has been swapped ,( pure pain that)?
first off code 53 means wrong ecu , CAL to FED or the harness grounds  are wrong telling the ECU a lie,  wanna bet engine harness has been swapped , is wrong grounds sure.
IAT is missing on one year ECU, 92? i will  look it up.  and for sure added to 95,  It does super fine fuel trim is all. but the ECU must be correct  and hardness or hand wire the IAT to the ECU.
The IAT is on the air cleaner box near or on.
there are over 20 harnesses used on this car, based on option many. and for SMOG calif and fed, the hood sticker tells you what car this is and the VIN
well SURE, the first thing is to end limphome mode or WILL run like crap , rich as a pig,  no spark advance and no idle controls. (hot)
that means that the ECU you have must be made happy and with wrong harness that takes a bit of work (fish or cut bait, make ecu happy with car or car happy with ECU,)

EGR cal fed ,  the ECU dictates that, and those 2 EGRT wires (CALIF EGR that is) thermoprobe.
IAT must be wired up, if ECU demands it.  must.
CODE 53 can just means wrong ECU, but can be missing EGRT or wrong ECU, or wrong harness or just  simple ground wires to ECU misssing
the grounds most are for power,  and there is ground bus for sensors, and some have 1 more pin that is the CAL federal PIN .

the goal is code 12, at all times for sure hot engine and driving 10 miles with good hot thermostat.  

GET 12 is first, most errors are all land on limphome,  not code 51 egr fail but all other are land on limp mode. (horrible running)
goal 1 end LIMP.
the way to do that is fix each bad sensor 1 by 1, even wiring it backup  pin by pin.  to make it work or go to FED ECU to avoid EGRT sensor.

here are some links to my page,s,
here is the PDF for all ECU on this car and the top deviance.

https://fixkick.com/ECU/EPC-ECU96-98/all...9-95NA.pdf

58b30 NO IAT 92/93 only, but calif had it added. 58B10 (and IAT every year after, both CAL AND FED.
the top sticker on ECU is what you have and  first to read,
93, MT 4door,16v is
58B90 or B50,(CAL) B30 FED.
The above is pure USA ECU listing all,

I only have 1 question, but is mostly useless knowing  the are with ALIEN HARNESS.

but here goes some pins.

see this yet off my page

https://fixkick.com/ECU/ECU16v_92-95.html


and page 1
https://fixkick.com/specs/95ecu1w.jpg

and page 2

https://fixkick.com/specs/95ecu2w.jpg

any pins not wired on your harness but are above, is a,  first things to know and why.
B21 is IAT  and not used on 92/93 FED ECU,  ecu part number tells you what must  be done here.
B17 is egr thermal sensor and is CAL only cars, until 1995.
all grounds present.

 https://fixkick.com/ECU/16v-ecu-pins.html


after code 12 good and then  still the PIG running is caused by. (black cloud engine)
BAD FPR< not regulating fuel pressure wrong under all loads on engine and most are dead now, this old never replaced ever.
MAF dead or the classic  EBAY CRAP MAF installed,  easy to test, this is with any voltmeter on the output pin,  keyon test, idle and WOT see my MAF test page.
ECT dead   (300 ohms hot 180f thermostat at 180f and working right hot engine is a key check on all these cars. for run right
TPS bad (bet not)
all injectors clean and firing,. they  have 10micron screens inside so clog with bad fuel. easy. pro's back flush them with an ultrasonic device.


ECU only reports dead sensors not weak so that is our job to do that , /w meters.

https://fixkick.com/ECU/92-95MPI-eng-sch...e-huge.png


code 53 hell, i made this page in 2007? ouch. long agol

https://fixkick.com/EGR-H3LL.html

and lost how bad is limp home mode (fail safe) or LIMP

answer is horrible,

https://fixkick.com/ECU/LimpHome/failsafe.html

SEE IAT MISSING CAUSING LIMP>  SAYS IT IN THE MANUAL

limphome set on the new car, causes CAT burn up (and melt) and #4 exhaust tube to crack as it glows red hot,   none of this is fun then or now.

code 51 is weak or dead EGR and is not LIMP mode.




last  what ECU is that, from CARDONE1 , top sticker matters big time.? 58Bxx what is xx (?) xx is cal/fed /year codes. per  PDF above.
as do all wires in the custom harness not matching that.
53 means wrong ecu for harness or missing calif , EGRT

does your hood sticker show the words CALIFORNIA, if not there that word this is a FED car new, day 1,new and runs FED ECU, but we can correct  that at ECU pins wired right.

hood up, eyes up and under if hood not wrong (eeks this one tag tells you what car was day 1 new.
see calif it is calif car. if calf missing is a fed car. day 1. (dictates ECU and harness in car) my guess is trail-TUFF alien harnesses are FED only, BUT I DO NOT KNOW.







my guess is it has something like this mess.

https://trailtough.com/product/1-6-liter...rsion-kit/

never seen me ever any documents from them on a real schematic  here. not even a simple pin-out on the ECU end.