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Vacuum Leak
#1
My daughter took my sidekick to the mechanic after having problems with it starting up and I got it back with a vacuum leak and the neutral parking safety switch bypassed. The mechanic apparently just did a quick fix and jumpered the wires going to the safety switch.

I found the vacuum leak easy because it's so loud and all I had to do was place my finger over this hole what I found out to be the Hot Idle RPM Air Bleed Screw which is missing.

My car is idling up and down now and maybe this is related. Can anyone tell me if you have an Air Bleed Screw where this hole is? I found a picture of this online but it says that some models apparently don't have one but mine must because why would there just be a hole there with a loud vacuum leak.

Here is a link to the picture I found after searching forever. I can't find any youtube videos or photos of any other close ups.

http://www.fixkick.com/IDLE-AIR/more-pho...view1w.jpg
http://www.fixkick.com/IDLE-AIR/idle-bleed1w.jpg

Please let me know if you have this screw and know where to find this part.
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#2
what year/?
what engine? 8valve or 16v? its G16 but valve count matters.

(01-11-2017, 09:53 AM)rawroy Wrote: My daughter took my sidekick to the mechanic after having problems with it starting up and I got it back with a vacuum leak and the neutral parking safety switch bypassed.
The mechanic apparently just did a quick fix and jumpered the wires going to the safety switch.

I found the vacuum leak easy because it's so loud and all I had to do was place my finger over this hole what I found out to be the Hot Idle RPM Air Bleed Screw which is missing. (this is special screw that sets idle. its not sold, buy a used Throttle body on ebay.


My car is idling up and down now and maybe this is related
Can anyone tell me if you have an Air Bleed Screw where this hole is?
the idle will do that on all suz G16a for any gross, air leak, vacuum, surge what you see is the ECU madly trying to find 800 rpm hot.
and cant so hunts the ISC madly.. (its also a software bug,it should close the ISC and sit there, to be safe but does not.)





I found a picture of this online but it says that some models apparently don't have one but mine must because why would there just be a hole there with a loud vacuum leak.

Here is a link to the picture I found after searching forever. I can't find any youtube videos or photos of any other close ups.

http://www.fixkick.com/IDLE-AIR/more-pho...view1w.jpg
http://www.fixkick.com/IDLE-AIR/idle-bleed1w.jpg

Please let me know if you have this screw and know where to find this part.


8v bleed is here
http://www.fixkick.com/IDLE-AIR/Slide_Sh...age_5.html

16v is bleed is here.
http://www.fixkick.com/IDLE-AIR/Slide_Sh...ge_31.html


the correct way to set the bleed, is to do the idle duty cycle calibration
or turn it in until idle stops surging and then 1 or 2 more turns. (guessing)
this calibration sets it to 50 % duty.
http://www.fixkick.com
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#3
ok that is 8v. you pointed to.
its not sold, the screw is conical, like a large carb mixture screw, but for air only.
it has a seat that the cone fits.

find a used body.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1993-Suzuki-Side...XV&vxp=mtr

sadly this one has no front view , to prove its not missing here too.

8v parts are getting hard to find/.
the TBody needs to be A/T if needed in future but both m/t and a/t have same screw 91-95 usa.

lots here, but non say if 16v or 8v.
http://www.car-part.com/cgi-bin/search.cgi

how ever all 1991 usa are 8v. so that is one trick to know.
http://www.fixkick.com
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#4
Thanks for the reply! I've uploaded a youtube video here! This might help explain what I'm hearing and seeing.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LTW28qfrmG8

It's a 1991 Suzuki Sidekick.
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#5
i dont need to hear it suck air, as all G16s do that with said part missing ALL DO. just like that, and is the first one posted anywhere, in 10 years, never seen one missing ever. but we do unscrew it and know what it does .
btw that path under that seat goes to the PLENUM box, and is at 20 inches, vacuum at idle, and will suck HUGE AIR IN THING ILLEGAL state.
that idle screw is called idle duty cycle set.
we set it to 50% of the ISC range.
when set right idle holds at 800 rpm exactly.
hot.
a/c off
on all suzuki, G16 , to today.

800 +- 50 rpm
that hunting i the ECU going nuts, it can control idle with huge vacuum leans, no G16 can, ever so what the question,
there is no question missing such and important missing part.

as my German ASE tech friend says.
why not fix what you see is bad first.?? a man of few words and love em.

car starting in drive (hacked), no problem for adults but not a 15 year old girl, i bet.





(01-11-2017, 11:13 AM)rawroy Wrote: Thanks for the reply! I've uploaded a youtube video here! This might help explain what I'm hearing and seeing.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LTW28qfrmG8

It's a 1991 Suzuki Sidekick.
http://www.fixkick.com
Reply
#6
i guess youve never seen now A/t cars start
all have (by law usa) the PRNDL switch or P/N switch
this switch keeps soccer mom from driving over kids, starting car in drive. as many did before the law was passed long long ago.

the mech failed to fix it in the legal way, new PRNDL switch
and bypassed that.
i bet lots are like that now... soon as the switch price new is seen.
why is that a problem , you let him hack your car, which problem is that, the hack or not fixing it right.

the transmission has detents, called the manual valve.
if the cable is set wrong, you land on wrong detents.
its that simple,. if you look on the right side of the transbox you see just how simple , brutal simple.


park dead
well that is pure mechanics./
the cable there is set wrong, or Suzy soccer mom stopped car, rolling fast using park and shear the parking pawl pin in half.
1 or the other.
no , the sensor does not do park ever.
but what if you dim bulb mech,. did not notices the cable is wrong, causing both the PRNLD to fail and Park to fail.
gee, if you fix that bad cable, gee, the PRNDL lands on P and car cranks like magic.
its the cable set wrong. its calibrated on all cars. (most)
the book is free to read, the links is here. its listed in the greetings post here... then new ACKfaq links, to 96FSm.

is that a 3speed or 4 speed box.?
the 3speed is a pure Hyramatic, same box as that 1980 USPS mail truck, (jeep) seen, same old 70s box. pure mech.
the 4speed is electronic shifted, so you need to learn what is there. first.
my web site covers both, and even shows 12 ways to tell, them apart.
has 2 on base. odd.
but where is the od switch and the P/N switch?power normal switch.
the left side of the transmission
has this label the 4speed OD, lockup trans.

http://www.fixkick.com/specs/Body-TAGS/i...d-tag1.jpg

in limphome MPG is 15mpg
in runs right mode, 28mpg easy., all 3 of mine did 28mpg but all 3 ran ,like new in closed loop. (means 02 sensor works)
windows i have no comment, they can be horrid to get right, real parts work best clones, ZERO.


got flash codes 12 yet
that is first.
http://www.fixkick.com
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#7
most cars those rods are held( locks , latches) use a plastic clips
plastic can no rust and jam there, but they never planned for any car this old to still run.
they are also sacrificial when the car ICES UP, they break saving the distruction of a $100 clock.
its rare car... old and not many made, (due to Consumers reports bad vibs then) and down south here, i see only 1 or 2 per year, rare as hens teeth here.

next time you go on trip, make fun game on the road
The next 1991 car seen yell Eureka kowabunga..

note the long silent trips.....
sold mine to some Canadian, they love them, a lust and well deserved in ice.

note only that but suzuki bugged out here, making parts real hard to get,

1000x that on idle screw. (not to be found new, only used with great effort) suzuki might sell you a TB at $1200 a pop, might. (stock low to none)
PRNDL sold everywhere.
cables all sold.
there are many parts on the car that are not sold at all. now.

step in fix bad trans cable;
if frayed, buy a new one.
next find a use TB.
http://www.fixkick.com
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