tps issue?

[mikedalcollo]

First off website and forum are great stuff! been having a blast working on my newly acquired 96 tracker with use of the fixkick website......until today. I had disconnected my tps sensor to make sure it was indexed properly.....tried to start her up n no go....opps forgot to plug it in. plugged it in n gave her another go n bam evrything went dark. EVERYTHING. the headlights won't even come on. no dash lights I mean nothing. like the key isn't in it. any ideas? looked at every fuse in the two boxes, under hood n dash, all look good. any ideas? hate to think I just trashed my tracker...

[gorkyb]

I would first check the battery terminals. Very cheap and easy to change.

[fixkick]

that was only a coincidence.
battery cable ends rusty? 4 ends make sure the bottom ground at start bolt is not loose.
the check voltage at all connections at side of the hood fuse box, right fender.
power distribution. 1996 was the major change, here.
http://www.fixkick.com/Charging/96mains.jpg

this is older but the power is same, you lost power here, 96 just has more fuses, fix headlights first.


use a volt meter there.

12.6vdc is good,

[mikedalcollo]

thanks guys, these ideas give me hope!
the battery terms are good n clean so don't think that's the issue. I referenced the headlights because those should come on without key in ignition, I'm pretty sure they will work when I get power back. everything went dead after it all came on for a split second. sounded similar to a fuse blowing.
red/white should be 12.6 vdc?..... or all three from alt? I don't currently own a volt meter but will have one in hand in the morning.
thanks a million for the advice!
will report back

[fixkick]

sure it can be that big fuse. the alternator can short and blow it. easy ! in fact that is the purpose of the biggest fuse in car.
this is and easy fix. with any voltmeter.
walmart 10 buck meter, works, any will. set to volts. 20vdc range. (or autoranged)

do head lights, they run at any time, and are most easy to diagnose. of all things on car.

turn them on, for a nice 10 amp load.
across battery reads 12.6v (lug to lug, better is post to post)
from battery neg lug to body, 0v, if see 12vdc the grounds are open. (black test lead. to battery eg, red to body. metal.
now from neg lead still on neg lug, put red test lead to each point, on fuse box, fender. all must read 12v or the fuse is blown.

bingo, im sure.

PS:
as you can see the HL fuse are in the main box. starting in 1996 up.
you will find the input to those fuses, dead. im sure. as are all mains lines dead.
many cars do same thing with battery ground lug loose at starter top bolt. or someone moved said wire (huge) to someone wrong.
seen batteries go to 0v, due to internal major failures. (straps in side)

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the real 98 is here.
http://www.fixkick.com/Charging/98-Distr...-15dpi.jpg
nothing changes , in this regard, battery and the main fuses all must be hot. (at 12vdc head lights on)

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see that main box 1.
see that center bus bar. all must be 12.6 hot. if not , all fuses will be dead. at there outputs.
if the alternator shorts, it blows the 80amp in 1998 car. in a flash of light , bam.

[mikedalcollo]

well...after getting my volt meter I did as you instructed n sure enough I feel like a nincompoop....I panicked n was tired from a long night at work.
can't thank you enough, for your patience and great attention aNd pics...... for not just telling me to get at here with that stupid stuff.
back to finding vacuum leaks!

[fixkick]

hey , electrons are invisible. so it's no wonder folks cant see whats going on.!
the voltmeter, told you what is wrong.
just like a dead water faucet, zero pressure. (voltage is pressure)
did you pop a fuse?
sorry im so curious....

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now vacuum leaks, now that is a PISTOL of problem !

[mikedalcollo]

the 80a fuse under the hood looked good.....after not getting the correct readings.....took a closlier look, it was corroded inside. it was complete but looked like it was just corrosion must have finally lost complete connection.
this one is a little neglected.
got one other ? if you don't mind.....the tps holds the throttle back so far my throttle cable has a lot of slack...is this just the cable needing adjmnt?

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so this tps holds the throttle open pretty far.....does it just need to be calibrated?

[fixkick]

96 (usa cars are all G16b 16valves, unless a J18 sport)
the cable is set loose , by spec, never tight, and same goes for cruise cable and for TV to A/T trans cable if car is automatic. (if opted)

The TPS must never hold open any TV (throttle valve)
the TV is 99.99% closed on cold or hot engine at idle. .0005" clearance, so tight water wont pass.
but if TPS is indexed wrong or the calibration done wrong, bingo.
http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/tests/TPS...html#MYWAY

good luck to you,
and the box loves to do this.
suzuki sells it pretty cheap, one of the rare exceptions,..... IMO

http://www.fixkick.com/Charging/fender-box-death1.jpg

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the green death

http://www.fixkick.com/fuse-box1-failure2.jpg


the water jumps up right strut on some and lands here, a suzuki horror. for sure not you caused.

[mikedalcollo]

wow! not that bad....
it was just the inside if the actual fuse, like it wasn't sealed anymore from age. the brass was green. popped in a newbie and it got power.
ya the tps holds the tv open way far...i was just checking out the tps sensor page