tps fault.

[avaconirl]

It is looking all the time like a faulty tps i hade fitted a new one that i got from a site in Aus on eBay. It came in a sealed suzuki box but it made no difference so i am still using the original one.
Many thanks for your help i will solve this problem and keep you informed

[fixkick]

no other symptoms. at all, no drive-ability issues, at all ?, and for sure, none just before the CEL glowed.?

your welcome.

the ECU checks that switch when the ECU thinks that idle is in force,
slow RPM (CMP sensor , is RPM)
low ECU load (calcs) (based off map /rpm )
20 inches or near engine vacuum (idle speed, ) 0.7 bar./ 70kPa (MAP READINGS)

the DTC monitor is not too well documented (typical off most oBD1 cars)
but in general the ECU knows you are at idle (not even looking at the idle switch) then sees that state, and is steady , and then looks at the switch and goes BAM, TPS idle switch is stuck closed.


both DTCs are done that way, (RPM/load/vacuum) are indicating idle or not idle but the TPS signals opposite state.
this is all it can do.
The other TPS T Throttle angle pin is very crude and can not be trusted to signal idle like the 1.8L and 2.0L do.

based on sensors failing id say wrong calibration or santana's uses unique, TPS. or swapped to wrong TPS, some where.


i can look up your tps in the EPC catalog but can not because i need the body tag codes.
that body tag , tells me 2 things, one the market code
and the exact engine type
in Australia they have E24 Australia (RHD) market it , for example
then here.
see this example E24 plate.

on the fire wall next to the battery is this. (we look here , before buying parts, every time)
see the FAE code, and those numbers, guess what that is the engine code, that allows me to look up correct TPS part numbers.
1994



and the 2L v6

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i can look all up, but JDM cars.

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i looked in the EPC, cat. even the 97 year.Santana III
at all Santana's Vitaras with G16 engine, 8v./
all use the same TPS, even 90-95 Samurai's G13s an SJ-413s
all uses
suz pn
13420-56B00

[avaconirl]

Sometimes the check light my come on before the problem will happen but not always.It may happen on light throttle when you are I traffic.
That part no is the same as the one I got from pet?? who sell on ebay aus they were the only ones that had it at a good price here in ireland it is over 250 euro where as from aus it cost about 110 euro. The vin plate for the santana you have is the same as mine. I will soldier on with this prob and keep you informed.
Thanks

[fixkick]

here we have the big company SMP
SMP #TH147

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php

$137 USD
$107 euro

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail...ion+sensor

[avaconirl]

Just an update on the probs i have had for the last 2 years with the code 45 and the hunting prob.
First the hunting after all the advice on the hunting you all said it was a vacuum problem i had checked all of the hoses and all were ok. It turned out to be the gasket between the throttle body and the inlet manifold.
The code 45 may have been water in the wiring loom i think. The car is a santana built car and the wiring seems to sit in some water beside the battery box. I had no problem all summer when we had no rain but as soon as the rain started the code prob arose, makes sense???.
Another problem was it had the wrong petrol cap with no breather in it.
I hope this may help someone in the future and i hope i will not jinks the car as it has been running ok for the last 2 weeks.
All of this makes sense after the fact and hopefully that is the end of this problem.

Many thanks to all especially fixkick

[fixkick]

the wrong cap will collapse the gas tank,not only stall the pump. (as temps drop, hot to cold) and the engine sucking hard at the vacuum nipple.

the 45s are real, the ECU saw and is a take it to the bank thing, (if cleared first and comes back)
Idle Switch Circuit , grounded all the time. Part of TPS sensor. (too low) or Maladjusted.

what the ECU does is, when it seens you moving faster than 0mph and open throttle , if the idle switch stay closes, it throws this error.
the wire is grounding out
or the TPS is calibrated wrong and is staying closed too far, from idle stop. (feeler gauge checks)

if it does stay closed to long, it fights your right foot, just off idle in this very odd way (hesitates) the ECU tries to lower RPM as you try to increase it, (logger heads issues)
good luck to you!

[avaconirl]

If the wiring loom is sitting in a pool of water and there is a fault with the insulation on the wiring there is a possibility of the tps wiring going to earth ???. The tps prob would always happen at certain parts of a daily commute but not at other parts when feathering the throttle.
What i did was lift the wiring out of the pool of water and extend the seal at the rear of engine bay under the windscreen so the water goes down to the wing rather than flowing down the back of the battery onto the wiring loom where it is not wraped in insulation tape by the factory.

[fixkick]

if the harness is warn , why not clean it , fix and re-tape it.
no the water will not cause 0 ohms resistance on the idle closed switch. (unless the pool was near pure carbon and rust? nah , no way...)
you do know the , TPS is calibrated right, with 3 gauges.
go
no go
and Cal.
if you don't do it by the book one of 2 things happen.
1: no idle controls at idle.
2: or the the TPS controls are active the first 1/4" inch of tip in throttle fighting you.

2 effects. why is only 3 reasons, calibrated by guessing, or bad TPS (no way for it to short , no way) and grounded out harness wire.

I have no idea what harness colors Spain uses or mandates.
but more are this color. blue with white stripe. this is idle wire, (tells ECU , IM at Idea NOW)


the spec on our ECU is 300 ohms on that wire
if less that 300 ohms that is IDLE True.
so any shorts, must be less than 300 ohms tell me how water can conduct to 300 ohms.
see my reasons? (i could do it , but Frankenstein is on vacation this week, he can mix any foul potion)
it bet the TPS has never been calibrated. that is my bet, if not missing wire insulation.
my never, i mean since last PO fiddle it .

[avaconirl]

I have been setting the tps as per the 3 feeler gauge set up you recommend and i had been getting the ohm readings you say i should be getting so i felt it must be a faulty tps switch. The weird thing is i was getting this problem all of last winter or whenever we had rain or very damp weather. During this summer in ireland we had little or no rain and i had no trouble and i had not touched the tps, as soon as the weather went back to normal ( damp or raining) the problem came back. I had checked the tps with the three feeler method and it was set ok with the proper ohm reading as well. I felt that it was an occasional short to earth with an insulation break with the water acting as a conduit. I know what you are saying is right but what i have noticed is that since i have removed the water from the loom the code 45 has not occurred. The other thing is that i moved the wiring up the valance out of the water pool that was beside the battery and maybe if there was a wire break it is happy where it is but this is highly unlikely. I did not yet change the tps switch it is running on the new one i got from aus but i hade been using this before.
Again thank you for all of your help and patience i hope and prey that the car stays working.
PS the wiring you described is the same one i have on my car i did try to see if there was a short to earth by disconnecting it at bothends and doing a resistance test to earth and i was not getting a short while wiggling the wiring about.
I know what i have done to try and cure the fault does not make sense and it may just be a coincidence that the fault has just stopped but i am just passing on to you what i have done and i am waiting for it to raise its ugly head again.

[fixkick]

45s is ground out
44s is open wire. see that my page matches there, it does. many other pages, on DTC fail to show (stuck hi or low, sadly)
http://www.2carpros.com/articles/suzuki-...-1986-1995

45s are the wire is stuck low. (shorted and 0v (too near 0v))
the ECU can tell this because , it sees you advance the throttle and goes, what the heck, why is that silly idle switch closed, that is IMPOSSIBLE it thinks (sic)
tracing every inch (if comes back sure) is only way to find the ground out.

since you did the calib. you know what it read, go ,nogo and calibr. and there for know it works and that that the indexing is good, (back side of tps is index pins)

it sure is not water, water is an insulator to 12vdc, (and ever 100,000 volts with pure water, my huge radar ran off pure, and works,but i had to work hard to get it pure......)
water does not conduct until you add salt then its a salt water battery.
water will corroded the connectors causing,44s




drive it for a week before saying its fixed, intermittents are just that, 1 per sec. or per week, only fate rules that.

usually this error never goes away unless the stuck cause is found. (wire at 0v , with foot, pushing the throttle)

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I only posted because, i think it will come back, usually shorts do that, the damage is heavy and must.
but if you bend harnesses, that may well hide the cut wire short for ever. until it corrodes open that is.

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keep in mind I have bench tested many if not all errors on the DTC page. to see trip points. etc.
even fooling code 53. and 51s.
in fact , ive set it up so almost all errors spit out.. easy really, mess up all inputs.

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its just a harness ground out, im sure.