Timing issue 96 Geo Tracker

[Jerry]

Timing belt broke on 96 Geo Tracker -2 door (1.6-16 valve non interference engine). How do I reset the timing? There is no damage to engine.

[fixkick]

easy but dont use the "I" marks.

every known way to do it right is there , all steps, and all pitfalls, (many)

http://www.fixkick.com/t-belt/16-fast-belt-install.html

or type belt in the search box.

[Jerry]

helperbee,

followed directions on your suggested fixkick website. starts great then dies immediately no spits, sputters or backfires. just like turning key off. doesnt fade just dies. had this apart for about 6 months just now returning. please help i dont know whether to shine my shoes or go bowling!

ps. tdc on compression stroke on #4 cylinder. cam gear marking e. pointing up on mark. dropped dizzy in finger pointing at #4 plug tower. turned dizzy to no avail.

[fixkick]

id shine and bowl after you will smart and attract lots of gals.
ah, the dizzy was pulled??
seems what you did is ok timing both to #4 is ok, just rotor must point #4 wire and the rotor spins CCW.
1,3,4,2 is normal but doing above, is 4,2,1,3 order, CCW.
but if that was done right, try test fuel, see if test fuel keep it going for as long as you keep spraying.
if it sound good, then you lost injection , or fuel pump pressure, are is the IG coil (it is) and FI fuse good?

the key here is you said it starts and ends. so , that be very , much saying you did it ok.
and is now a new problem.

the fueling can only be cut 3 ways.
and if sparks ok, only 2. (EFI wise) fuel pressure ok.
1 : the ignition suppress fell off, (tacho goes dead, if it zooms up, its ok)
that is the TPS TP pin stuck at 5v. this happens if the TPS ground is cut. (open)

a scan tool will tell why if the fuel pressure is ok.

[fixkick]

Post BAD key saga:
IG key on, I'm sure the CEL lamp glows, if not the FI fuse is blown on the right front finder, im sure it's ok. but.... (some there get lose or the corrosion deal)
The IG fuse in the cab fuse box., for spark.
it must run on test fuel.
even with no , fuel in gas tank,
if it runs each time, then the engine is ok, and spark, you can hear it run, and how it sounds and all that.

crank key must be at TDC or all timings will be displaced and way off,.time.
some times the engine is flooding not noticed, and I pull the pump pink wire at the rear left tail light housing , killing the fuel pump
or cranking wide open throttle to clear that flooding.... (this cuts fuel via ECU special mode)
see scotty. 22sec. in.

https://youtu.be/064Ilsz8Fzg?t=22

if this fails , i check my spark plugs, if injection is ok, , the spark PLUG tips, will be soaked with fuel on a timed wrong engine.(or bad spark)
if dry plug, and the test fuel works, and stalls, each test, and engine sounds ok, we then check the ECU, using a scan tool.
The ECU will cut fuel, for the below reasons;
1: tacho line goes dead . (this is spark read back to ECU, if tach dead, engine stalls. via cut fuel mode) spark suppressor fell off,
2: CMP in distrib goes dead, as does spark, but ECU cuts fuel , at this point too. to prevent fires.
3: CKP dead, does not cut fuel (unique suzuki magic) and runs, but not well.
4: ECU sees TPS TP pin stick at WOT, 5v and cuts fuel, this is the suzuki UNFLOOD mode. if the ground breaks here, its in forever unflood mode. ECU CUT FUEL.
btw the scan tool reports all 4 , cases, if you scan it while cranking for 5 full seconds. even the cheapest scan tool works on USA car. here.1996 OBD2.

all this is based off the crank key still at TDC .(no bad key way issues)
if not?, all timings will be wrong.

and keep in mind, you can use the timing light to check an engine spark timing, even when engine does not run.
but that is pulley timing and if TDC is wrong, so will be all marks. and all causal checks. by eye or light.

i have used this on one G16B to find out of TDC is correct or not.

http://www.fixkick.com/t-belt/TDC-ISSUES...9-TOOL.jpg

also the best way on this car, to do test fuel (to not have ECU do wrong injections for the test)
is to pull the pink wire. and test.
http://www.fixkick.com/INJECTORS/PUMP/Tl2w.jpg

left tail pulled, see plug , see large pink wire , pull connector apart and bam, pump is dead.
no more flooding
then use test fuel to your hearts content to see engine , hear and and evaluate if it sounds and runs ok.
in effect you became injections.



compression must be over 150psi , at WOT,
if not the cam is timed wrong. (or crank key)
when i work any engine this old or all G16s, compression, tops my list, then fuel pressure.
when key fails.
most these G16s all do about 80psi. compression, this is because the crank wants to retard the cam. (Crank walks the key )
on all 4 cylinders, it's a classic failure on this engine, and 1000s have reported, on all forums.
as soon as I repair the damage, the compression gauge is unboxed
i do that even with engine sitting on a pallet.. not wanting to invest my time, installing dead engines.
my guess is you got the key back to zero.... with the epoxy ok.. in this case but id still do compression
if thats ok
I crank it with the PINK wire pulled.
see if spark lands on near zero degrees. (timing light in hand)
if not correct that, or set it to -5degrees BTDC. now. cranking,, dead engine. (as hood sticker shows spec)
then test fuel tests. (repeat until feel happy, and engine happy)
then I scan it cranking with pink wire back. (fuel pump back on line)

this is how id do all this.... to find true cause of no RUNS.

---

my g16b did 185psi dead cold (60f to 70f ambient not in alaska) at sea-level and 195psi warm or hot engine.
so the 150psi is worst case on a 8v... the weaker compression engine.

[Jerry]

thanks for post. appreciate your forum. much work for next few days. will work on car this weekend

[fixkick]

good luck to you and car
hope its and easy find.
do ask questions.!