Timing cover nut...

[cosmic_splatter]

Fixkick,

The other day I wanted to take a peak at my timing belt. I started loosening the nut on the timing cover and the entire shaft started spinning.

What does that shaft hold in place? How bad is it that the entire thing is spinning? It's nut 21 in the middle of the cover.
http://www.fixkick.com/t-belt/16-fast-belt-install.html

John

[gorkyb]

The nut gets tightened over time due to grime and dirt. Once you take the whole thing off you can separate the nut from the shaft. Once out, you'll find out the shaft has an hexagonal body, look at part #8 on the drawing. Once you separate #21 and #8 you will then re-install #8 at factory torque specs and assuming the threads where #21 go onto are in good shape, you should be able to use it without both parts spinning together. Part #8 has two functions, one end holds the timing belt tensioner backplate (part #7), the other end provides a fastening point for the center of the timing belt cover which is the one you were turning.

Fixkick, correct me if I'm wrong but if cosmic_splatter turned that loose and the whole #8 loosened up that means that his timing belt tensioner could have moved as well, right? since the spring can now pull on the tensioner?

[fixkick]

x2

the last guy dont use a torque wrench or, never did step
skip phaseII, step 18.
set it to spec, lock it down.

or had the tang , mis-indexed in part 7 and it all came undone.
all is bad.
is bolt 9 loose too. OMG?

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part 7 tang must be fitted to the idler(tensioner) correctly. or its a double failure, (never does tension right and then goes loose)

[cosmic_splatter]

gorkyb,

That was my fear! Perhaps I lost tension. I'm not going to drive it anymore until I get all this sorted out.

John

[fixkick]

id not either, but if the tension is good, and the big bolt is tight,is ok.
big bolt on the idler there. has large torque spec.
the stud is tiny "7 to 8.5FT/LBS (Geo 97 inch-lbs)' 12X7= 84 inch
but the the idler bolt is large torque.17.5 to 21.5 (GEO 20 Ft/lbs)

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btw i check the crank pulley bolt 17mm deep wall socket, if it is loose bad thing, i attempt to torque it and if at say 20 ft/lbs, bad news. of at 50 (old spec) if at 94, its perfect.
i do this day 1, (after fluid checks)
then what you did.

[cosmic_splatter]

Fixkick,

I read your procedures on installing a new timing belt. I'm curious as to the procedure in relationship to the valve cover. I'm going to have my valve cover off to check and adjust the valve lash. Should the valve cover be put back on before the timing cover is installed or after you put the timing cover back on?

Just curious as to why you like to remove the valve cover when you do the timing? Is there anything else that should be done while the cover is off?

thanks,
John

[fixkick]

there are 2 pages, one for 8v and one for 16v they are very different, due to the CAM is very different and the 8 extra valves that have bias.
the 8v cam is very biased, with the belt off, it will not stay where you want it at all, (lash must be set loose)
the 16v and 16vavles the valves balance it well, and can be set as you wish, a very different head, here. (more easy)

the 60k calls out lash, so , it's off. no other reasons. but does let you watch valve action, see if the timing is wrong before and after setting timing.
eg: lets say , i have the VC off and im at cam cog 12pm (o-clock) and I see the #4 exhaust valve open, (or intaKE) OOPS THE CRANK COG KEY IS Sheared..
i never skip the opertunity, to test the cam lob actions, at least on #1 up front,. (intake, compress, power stock, exhaust, and TDC location marks)
even the cam key can shear.
and dizzy cap off, OMG the PO timed it , to one of 4 ways, different, ill write that down, rotor is over here... (so later , i dont put spark wires on stock way but PO way) or i correct this. toss coin.

also the VC gasket may be like gramcrackers at 60k, or worse if 120k.