TICKING SOUND FROM THE INTAKE BLOCK

[fixkick]

my guess off fire wall. in the engine bay, this VIN
as most decoder here fail, for this VIN.
the fire wall plate, has a last line of alpha numeric codes that end in 2 number digits, like 54, for Israel.

[SrgBog]

Thanks
HERE IS THE PICTURE OF IT

[fixkick]

you have no EGR, its defeated, there is no hose there, so, it can never open'
that means force it closed. and it stays like that for ever.
and must not sock air,

the egr has a gasket and must be good and not suck air, or the engine will go lean. (bad)
that is called illegal air, and bypasses the MAF sensor, bad that is.
if the MAIN #1 exhaust, valve in side, leaks, idle will suffer bad.
really removing it clean it make sure its main valve side is 100% closed,
then make sure the vaLve is not cracked,
and last put it back with a good gasket, and now it can never fail, inactive like this.

[fixkick]

ok , put E54 in your signature.
please be aware
a market anything can be in any country, cars move. (not its design)
only the true market is what matters, and this one is E54. Isreal.

so is double ISrael, a real Israel car located n Israel, got it.
I got work to do.
back later in PM with a set of drawings on E54 cars.

[SrgBog]

OK, I will take the EGR off and clean it.
All the signs lead that it is EGR problem...
Hope it will help.
Thanks a lot.

[fixkick]

yes vv code is Israel , codes, used in serial range 120000xx range.
is listed as type 4 engine. of 5

the E01, shows a egr blanking plate on rear EGR port.
the E01, -063 shows, same as 1995 Vitara here, usa. with diaphram ,operated main, and no side tube.
the E02 up E54 shows, and electric EGR and the top of TB has the EGR nippled capped off. as NORMAL.
only 3 types, exist, in 16v this year,

so whats back there ID #1, a plate'?, a vacuum valve?, or the electric valve below.?

see plate 12, empty hole, that is where our EGR #1 VSV fits but we dont have electric EGR, the electric EGR is like our 99+ and up, or on our 96+ sports.




IF part 1 clicks, that means its damage,is my guess. its electric motor driven.

as you can see this class 4 system is simple, and is all software driving, no magic vacuum nightmare.
The ecu opens it cruising, and knows how much to open it, by using internal ECU LOAD calculations, more load, more EGR flow.

Our 1996-98 sport J18 works same way. its really the best EGR setup.

[fixkick]

19 is evap canister.
29 is ISC (idle speed controls
11 is evap , that opens moving fast.

[SrgBog]

Thanks for the help.
Well I figure out that the ticking sound comes from the VSV (11 - evap).
Well I took and off and clean it - it didn't helped to anything but I removed a lot oily dirt from inside of it... So its clean now
Anyway as I said the ticking sound coming form the VSV - so I found one used at ebay for 30$ - I will get it.

bytw Sandro-it - you can get a VSV at ebay.. I searched at ebay "sidekick VSV" and found a few..
.
BIG THANK YOU GUYS for your help and advice !

mr. fixkick you are a real helperbee !!

[fixkick]

if it ticks , it might be bad, the VSV, if it rattles its bad, but when driving car, its open, not pulsing ever, basically its closed at idle, so that evap fumes dont mess up idle. then when you advance the throttle past say 50 thousands of an inch, 1mm? the idle switch opens the ECU sees that event and opens the EVAP valve, and sucks fumes, cruising full time and never pulses. That is the FRONT VSV not rear.

if the idle switch is opening and closings like that god, if not then its bad, i bet not... , as the video shows you heavy into to the throttle. so, its not this switch. failing foot deep on throttle.

leaving,what>?
if the VSV 12vdc pins (pair) PULSES, that is bad ECU. if the ECU is found to reboot over and over, then ecu caps are bad.

Best is to keep the diagnostic jumper in place (paper clip), if you did, and 12 flashes out, good, if you advance the throttle and the VSV clicks (repeats)
then if the ECU crashes, the 12s, get mangled mid stride, if you see the 12s miss up now, then ECU is rebooting over and over. due to classic bad caps. errors., (Imagine a drunk Ham Radeo operator, keying his morse key and messing up, this is what 12s, do,,,,, 1,,,2,,,,,1,,,,1,,,,2,,,,,1,,,,,,22,,,11,,mangled.
The vsv is easy to bench test, shake it , like a baby rattle does it make noise? yes, then its bad.
we can test that the coil is like 35 ohms and holding steady,wiggle connector?, and check the valve for closed, and open by blowing in ports. (i use vac tool)
super simple easy part and tests. It works just like a lawn sprinkler valve, only air not water. not any differences, easy tests.
I think default its open (0v) then you key on, and it closed (12v), and stays closed until you leave idle. IIRC....

the FSM covers vsv tests, fully.
hope the new one works, but if not, now you know why,

http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/vsv.html

Thanks for the help.
Well I figure out that the ticking sound comes from the VSV (11 - evap). FRONT !
Well I took and off and clean it - it didn't helped to anything but I removed a lot oily dirt from inside of it... So its clean now
Anyway as I said the ticking sound coming form the VSV - so I found one used at ebay for 30$ - I will get it.

bytw Sandro-it - you can get a VSV at ebay.. I searched at ebay "sidekick VSV" and found a few..
.
BIG THANK YOU GUYS for your help and advice !

mr. fixkick you are a real helperbee !!

[fixkick]

yes, sky high prices, or like NASA parts.
i hope its just a bad valve, if not let me know we cad do more tests.
happy trails!

Hi, I had already found this part of ebay but I think is not a big deal for me , because it may be older than 15 years, I wrote an email to Suzuki to know how much it costs the new parts, but already know the answer ..... also Mr. Fixkick know the answer , check the photo , greetings!