Swapping a 97 short block into my 94

[zukitrek]

Hello my good sir. Hope you are doing fine. Im doing good too. Like the message tittle says I found a 97 short block that Im thinking about swapping into my 94 (thats doable, right?).

Guy tells me that his car starts but sounds awful down there.

He's giving me everything for $65, which is a steal but maybe if damage is too much not worth it?. What would I need to look for when I get to see it?

I have already read your engine swap pages briefly, but i want to make sure with you.

If there is damage at journals on donor block then is not worth it? If crank is messed up, I would use mine (the 94 crank). What I would need to do is take donor block (97) with my good crank and pistons and rods and tell them to make them fit?

Thanks!!

[zukitrek]

No, he's only selling me the short block (block, crank, pistons, rods and I guess oil pump as well).

Ill have to gamble then, cause I won't really know untill I take it to machine shop. He told me that car sounded real bad, but my guess is that now it won't sound at all cause the head has been sold to someone else.

[zukitrek]

Im hoping for this too.

Ill keep you posted.

[zukitrek]

Hello Fix. Block is with me know. From what I can see it looks OK, but I really have not had the time to remove crank and look closely. Hopefully will do so tonight and inspect thoroughly before saying this is crap or saying this might work after all.


javier

[zukitrek]

Looks like this oil hole at piston rods got blocked. Was it bearing material from oil starvation or something else? Here some pics. All my pistons are coded 1 on top of dome. Block engraving also lets you know. The thing is guy removed them, so I really don't which 1 goes into which 1 cylinder.

http://www.fixkick.com/bbs2/Suzuki-bbs/e...iew&id=294

http://www.fixkick.com/bbs2/Suzuki-bbs/e...iew&id=293

Mains saddles are good at both sides They do regrind and polish cranks here starting $75. I still can use mine. Is just the it will take longer to assemble the engine. But Ill study my options.

Javier

[zukitrek]

Only that rod, the rest are good. Is metal for sure, I could not penetrate with a paper clip. Is gonna take more than that.

I say longer to reassemble because i have to wait until school is out. (remember is wife's main car, no school, then car can be worked on without hurries.
See what I mean by the take longer part?
In order to not spend more cash on a donor crank Me like U, (the term you have used before) Im a penny pincher? I can use mine from my current running engine, then mike, measure and if needed regrind.

Yes all pistons are code 1 validated (or at least printed) on block as you see in picture.

J

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Do you have any idea on new rings price from Suzuki? Yes of course new rings are part of the overhaul, as well as bearings, oil pump etc.
BTW, what do I need to check, test on the new oil pump?

Javier

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Ok, found some prices. Piston rings are $72 a set for only one piston!! Ouch!! The bearings (rods) are priced at $25 and main also $25. Thrust are $22. But these don't specify if for only one or as a set? m also getting new cog and bolt as well as all 3 seals. Could I use my tensioner, T-belt and pump from my running engine? Its been only 1.3 years since I used them. Or go all new in this build?

Gracias!!

[zukitrek]

I intend on using known brand quality parts for my rebuild.
The penny pincher stuffed applies only to the crank.
Why spend $50, 60 or more on a donor crank, to then have it machined for another $75 or more here
Ill just wait for my crank.

Its good, is running.
Thats the take longer part. If somebody gives one away for free, Ill take any day.

As for the other parts, thanks for giving the advice again of the no name crap parts. Your e-cat trick works all the time and I use it all the time to find brand parts fitment. As to the oil pump, yes a bit ahead, but is just a question. Im curious, and you know that.

Ill keep you posted as I progress, in the meantime Ill keep cleaning the block to get it ready for the rebuild.

As always, many thanks!!

Javier

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We have a couple of autoparts, but the franchise ones. Ironically they don't carry most of this stuff (rebuild parts): AutoZone, Durablast, Pepboys, etc. Independent auto stores for sure, most of my civic rebuild parts were bought at independent auto parts and they do carry quality brand name parts like, Sealed Power, NPR, Hastings, Taiho, Clevite, YPC etc.

Hell, there is one store, that has (and to my amazement first time I went) shelfs and shelfs of rebuild parts and precision tools: rings, bearing, oil pumps, pistons, etc and right next to them is the Machine shop.

How convenient? Actually same owner with 2 business. Smart guy Id say. So getting parts won't be a problem.

Javier

[zukitrek]

Yes I need to mike everything. now is the time. Any recommendations in your page for good micrometers and cylinder gauges? Ill ask my machine shop to see if the offer that service. I still need to get more precision tools. I don't have and digital callipers also.

As for what you are suggesting, I Will do so (follow the serial process, looking, miking etc), for sure. Is not what I have doing so far? Using my crank, I mean use my crank after measuring, miking and if needed, reground. But like I said, if one shows up before for free, I will inspect, mike and regrind (if needed) and then perhaps whole short block is ready when taking down engine in summer.

Ill keep you posted.

Gracias!!

[zukitrek]

Clog came out easily. I inserted a very narrow screwdriver from the outside side of the hole then tapped it and out it came. Looks like accumulated metal of some sort. Maybe PO inserted bearing wrong, covering the hole? Who knows!!

http://www.fixkick.com/bbs2/Suzuki-bbs/e...iew&id=295

http://www.fixkick.com/bbs2/Suzuki-bbs/e...iew&id=296

Its about ⅛ tall by ⅛ thick.

Cheers!!

[zukitrek]

Good morning sir. Looks like this engine was intervened before. Rod bearings are not stock.

http://www.fixkick.com/bbs2/Suzuki-bbs/e...iew&id=298

These are King brand

The Mains I cannot tell the brand.

http://www.fixkick.com/bbs2/Suzuki-bbs/e...iew&id=299

Did a quick cleanup of piston rods around the where rod and cap meet and pistons 3 & 4 are coded 1H both, and pistons rods-cap are 2H both. Just sharing this with you. Im still in the cleanup process and still need to contact another Machine shop to see if they do mike and measure for free. Do you think this donor crank is salvageable? Anyways I will take it to machine shop and if it is I think im gonna go with the regrind/repolish thing.

Cheers.