Stripped bolts on harmonic balancer

[droflex]

I got the 5 bolts out of the pulley.

I'm at the point where I'm putting the timing belt on. Is it suppose to be really hard to do even though there's no tension on the tension pulley?

I've read your page on how to do it and watched a youtube video. It looks like it should just slip on and then put the spring on the tensioner.

P.S. I tried the old belt and it won't slip on either.

[fixkick]

no, sorry, this is not like putting on a front accessory belt like my 2010 jeep, with new SERP belt dynamic live tension'er, (you dont have one on car, anywhere...)
there are no dynamic tensioners here,
pulley? , you mean idler pulley, sure.

the idler came off at belt off time, the idler is mounted to the pump., (step 12 in my list)
so when off the belt is like HUGE loose and falling off and flapping about.
no that is not how it is done at all.
belt in hand.
the idler is off. (removed)
engine at TDC mark, at 12pm to oil pump arrow head at 12pm
the cam at titty mark at 12pm aligned with matching mark at 12pm on back pan 12pm top.
lash loose, (the lash must be loose to remove cam bias. if not the belt tension-ing step fails. see? why>?
then put on the belt
then make it tight on right side (facing rear of car) no slack on that side
then put on the tensioner.
index tab warnings, on page shows how to do it wrong and right
and there is spring there, see that?> that is the device that sets belt tension for the tensioning steps.
the stud that locks the idler/spring , is loose a bit. so the idler can flop left and right at its will. (a key step here)
then
what youtube video?, you do know that 1/2 the stuff on youtube is crazy wrong , ? (some persons wild ideas of how to guess or whatever , )
Please send the link to youtube so i can have a nice laugh....

the new belt has instructions (GATES does) from china noname .zero
short and sweet, but skips lots of problems to go wrong.

my guess is you skipped lots of steps..
the below is belt only swap so the idler was OFF) and means
that at step (install) #6 , you put on the ildler pulley (its missing)leaving it loose, per step 6, (large center bolt on idler) loose.
the step 7 to 12, (can i assume steps 1 to 5 were done? (install section right side of page?) i can know what you did or skipped, sorry.




-------------------------------omg--------------------------------------------
i used to have page, that was called the Gorilla method of belt changes!
they cut the belt off
then pound the new belt on with a rubber mallet.
2 steps,, and makes some mech. very rich, charging big labor (TIME) for near zero efforts.

watching gorilla videos. are you, i cant guess what you watch, would have to see it to say.

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if not done correctly
the belt will be loose, when done wrong, and will beat it self to death soon.
a fact.
the actual tension (done right) is dictated by the thing spring seen in the center above.
it only creates tension at step 8, then at step 9 the spring is defeated, locked down for next 60,000 miles. (call the spring PARKED)

[droflex]

K. I thought if I removed the old belt without moving the crank or cam gears that I would be able to slip the new belt on.

What messed me up on this procedure is that I had to pull the pulley and gear off as one piece.

From what your saying I will need to start from scratch by finding TDC,

I'll re-read your page again.

Here's the video I had watched: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g0aCi0NfEHI

That guy is working on a 16v I believe.

[fixkick]

video:
note at time mark, 2:53 he fails to loosen the idle center bolt first. (its on an eccentric cam that idler) oops !
you can see this error there, 2 ways, the missed step (install #2) and the idle then rocks later, seen in vid, he fails to say it needs to be loose first. and show it.
no big deal , it a moot point, you new pump made you take that #7 bolt off.
Seems its a G16 16b not engine. the G16b does not require lash set real loose, due to 16 valves, that balance out the cam bias that on 8v does.
other than that one error. id does a G16B 16v correct,, but you dont have that engine, sorry, yours has that pesky , 8v head, see?
i diagree, it messed you up, the belt had to come off.. there is no other way to remove a pump. ever.
so putting it back is only one way.
you now have the instructions on 8v
its dead accurate.

the setting of tension on 8v, requires the valves to be loose. or ill cause huge valve spring tension, and that makes the tension spring totally useless.
what happens is the belt will run loose and , way before 60k miles.

the 8v page
and 16v are not the same page.

all G16, 8v same. even G13a and G10s.

K. I thought if I removed the old belt without moving the crank or cam gears that I would be able to slip the new belt on.

What messed me up on this procedure is that I had to pull the pulley and gear off as one piece.

From what your saying I will need to start from scratch by finding TDC,

I'll re-read your page again.

Here's the video I had watched: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g0aCi0NfEHI

That guy is working on a 16v I believe. YES? HE IS. and is not an 8v. different head, different method.

[droflex]

K. So what I'm gonna' do is get cylinder #4, the back one, closest to the firewall, to as close to TDC and make sure the crank gear mark is at 12 o'clock. Then make sure the correct mark on the top gear (cam) is at the 12 o'clock position.

After that I install the belt, put the spring on the tensioner with the bolt holding the tensioner arm slightly loose (so it can slide) and turn the crank clockwise at least two (2) turns to allow the tensioner to get the proper tension on the belt. AND make sure the the upper and lower gears marks are at 12 o'clock. Then tighten that double threaded bolt that holds the tensioner in place.

Then after that, I install the cover and tighten it all up and proceed to re-install the fan belt pulley with the new bolts.

At that point I will re-torque the large center bolt to 94 ft/lbs.

Correct?

[droflex]

I got the belt on and spun the crank at least two times and then check the marks on both gears.

When the top gear mark is at 12 o'clock the bottom gear mark appears to be slightly off to the right (like 12:01)

I'm pretty sure that if I take the belt off and reset it, that it will be off slightly to the left.

Does that make sense?

[fixkick]

id have to see it
was the crank key and slot not damaged.
it should not be off.
but how far. 1/16" inch off?
1 tooth or 1/2 a tooth.?
it can only be right or off 1 tooth
if off 1 full tooth its wrong.

I got the belt on and spun the crank at least two times and then check the marks on both gears.

When the top gear mark is at 12 o'clock the bottom gear mark appears to be slightly off to the right (like 12:01)

I'm pretty sure that if I take the belt off and reset it, that it will be off slightly to the left.

Does that make sense?

[droflex]

Before I received your reply I ended up taking the belt off and tried again.

I think it's perfect now.

The last thing that's being a pain is torquing that big bolt to 94.

When I was younger I would crawl under the car and lock up the flywheel. I'm almost an invalid now so I can't do that. I don't have any special tools to lock up the engine so I'm brainstorming (with my last remaining brain cell).

I read that I might be able to use that aluminum strapping material that has the holes in it. Attach that to one of the small bolts and then anchor to another bolt or frame rail.

EDIT: The aluminum strapping method worked quite well. I doubled it up (cause it ripped with a single layer) and used one of the small bolts on the crank and anchored the other side of the strap to the bolt that holds the dipstick on.

[droflex]

Well, I got it back together and it appears to run fine, or at least the same as it did before.

Thank for the help!

[fixkick]

my page shows all ways to torque it...
good news.....
yes.
the 8v is done valves loose, totally unlike the G16b 16valve. tis a fact. the tension if not correct, will be short life belt. but its just a long walk home no , engine damage.

only 3 work, on a/t
the fly lock.
or the home made, cog lock , with photos did you miss my page. (all ways to do the crank lock?)
or way 3, (nasty) the pulley chain wrench way. good way to wreck timing marks, for sure.

made 10 years ago.
http://www.fixkick.com/engine/myclutch/f...locks.html

i think i covered them all no/>?

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6mm bolts most cant handle 100 ft/lbs, of side shear. for sure walfart bolts.... lol

the 5speed works in 5th gear, brakes set and chocked. even better in 4wd 4H. super easy.....