Squish Squish Bish Brakes

[Beastcub]

Ok (1994Sidekick 4wd, 4 door JLX, 1.6 16V, auto no ABS 229,000 miles). Ive 2 man bled the brakes twice plus tried the Mityvac to remove old fluid (it ended up imploding! but it was like 15 years old) and my brake pedal is still squishy. The vehicle stops well and you can lock the brakes but the pedal is very spongy. I replaced the front pads and rotors and havent driven it much to wear them in but I doubt thats the reason. Any help? ANd what is this thing with the bleeder on it. I read the brake bleed page and did it LR, RF, LF with a helper pumping the brake holding, florr, tighten repeat. Ive done it 1000 times on other cars. TY

[fixkick]

Ok (1994Sidekick 4wd, 4 door JLX, 1.6 16V, auto no ABS 229,000 miles). Ive 2 man bled the brakes twice plus tried the Mityvac to remove old fluid (it ended up imploding! but it was like 15 years old) and my brake pedal is still squishy. The vehicle stops well and you can lock the brakes but the pedal is very spongy. I replaced the front pads and rotors and havent driven it much to wear them in but I doubt thats the reason. Any help? ANd what is this thing with the bleeder on it. I read the brake bleed page and did it LR, RF, LF with a helper pumping the brake holding, florr, tighten repeat. Ive done it 1000 times on other cars. TY

no lie it is hard to get  all the air  out the brake lines , cylinders and calipers.
it love to hold bubbles.

one of the best ways  is to do it backwards, pushing fluid from low rear point up hill to the master cylinder, reservoir

that is if the seals in the MC are not bad land leak inside the MC unseen.

motorcycles front are worse, 100% vertical lines flat refuse to bleed top to bottom the bubbles flow up faster than you can pump. the fluid,
same with air craft bottom of landing gear, all up hilll.
omg he is so young the much loved Scotty , RFM reverse flow method.

every word true for sure bubbles want to float high.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L0oUejw5Edc

and always pre prime and fail a dry or new MC.


RFM (reverse flow method) make sure to keep the  MC reservoir from overflowing on to painted fenders.

bleed on , rock on and be lucky!

some shop do it 4 ways and then the 5th nails it. if the system was dry use the , natural way to bleed first, open zerks let it fill up via gravity way, MC down. then use other ways to get last of the bubbles out.
some times calipers love to trap bubbles and scotty said right off the bat.
on one car I had to remove the connected caliber, and invert it and with ship block where rotor missing allowed me to get the last 2 bubbles out. yes painful.

inverted for getting the blasted ZECK on top not bottom, of caliper.

RFM is best, it moves in the same directly bubbles float, that is for sure.

[Beastcub]

Ok (1994Sidekick 4wd, 4 door JLX, 1.6 16V, auto no ABS 229,000 miles). Ive 2 man bled the brakes twice plus tried the Mityvac to remove old fluid (it ended up imploding! but it was like 15 years old) and my brake pedal is still squishy. The vehicle stops well and you can lock the brakes but the pedal is very spongy. I replaced the front pads and rotors and havent driven it much to wear them in but I doubt thats the reason. Any help? ANd what is this thing with the bleeder on it. I read the brake bleed page and did it LR, RF, LF with a helper pumping the brake holding, florr, tighten repeat. Ive done it 1000 times on other cars. TY

no lie it is hard to get  all the air  out the brake lines , cylinders and calipers.
it love to hold bubbles.

one of the best ways  is to do it backwards, pushing fluid from low rear point up hill to the master cylinder, reservoir

that is if the seals in the MC are not bad land leak inside the MC unseen.

motorcycles front are worse, 100% vertical lines flat refuse to bleed top to bottom the bubbles flow up faster than you can pump. the fluid,
same with air craft bottom of landing gear, all up hilll.
omg he is so young the much loved Scotty , RFM reverse flow method.

every word true for sure bubbles want to float high.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L0oUejw5Edc

and always pre prime and fail a dry or new MC.


RFM make sure to keep the  MC reservoir from overflowing on to painted fenders.

bleed on , rock on and be lucky!

[fixkick]

good luck to you.

bleeding is for sure a luck thing, even repeated . can luck out.

if you push the brake pedal fast and it is spongy, that is AIR
if push slow the pedal, and is only spongy this why that is bad MC seals side.
all answer, no fluid hits the shop floor.
or fluid below left heel.
there are also brake booster issues.
if brakes are bad key off, the booster is not it.
assumes brack pedal free play is good and that booster rod on rear is not set way way off, too short.