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Sidekick Sport Cruise Control
#11
(12-18-2020, 07:21 AM)Axel Wrote:
(09-29-2020, 07:36 AM)fixkick Wrote: great and yes they are rare,lots of parts on this car are not made nor sold.
ABS is like this.
no 2 cars use same ABS system all are different.
this one too.  custom to suzuki only.
look in the books on scan tools all have ABS supported list and you will see no suzuki there, (90s)
No this is correct.  you can even read the  book on the most  expensive scan tool made, same answer.

keep in mind 1996 is first (99%) OBD2 ECU and the EPA never included ABS then or after, .  ABS is not smog is way. NO EPA dictates there.
The manual on your car states clearly use Tech1 scan tool and is not sold now.rare, and those made wore out long long ago. (keypads dead)
it uses a 100% custom interface pins logic and levels and suzuki non published protocols.
just like 89-95 ECU are.too.

ABS can be a huge pain,  best is have car and maker that supports it , unlike suzuki.
some do have blinks codes in the manual that I do not have. ABS.

all I know is what mitchells online shows, and not much..
response.
I wasn't too concerned about the ABS but did check the brakes, the sensors, all connectors etc but couldn't find anything obviously wrong.  Then when I was out in snow a couple of weeks ago I found that the ABS works, at least on hard-packed snow and ice. When it kicks in it must draw a lot of current as the daytime running lights dim significantly. I did feel that the braking was seriously affected. Again it was hard packed snow and ice but the ABS seemed to turn the brakes off enough of the time that slowing the car was a lengthy process. Not very confidence inspiring. Doesn't work like the ABS I have had on other cars where there is a definite feel of the brakes cycling. This is more of a high frequency buzzing sound and feeling but it does stop the brakes locking up. Need to test it on a proper tar road now. 

Can anyone with an ABS Sport tell me how theirs feels and responds?
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#12
dimmed light , hint that the wiring is bad or the battery is bad or the alternator is below 13v and bad.
yes ABS pulls current but not cause power bus to fail. alternator runs the car, engine running and that means lamps do NOT DIM.
ABS modulates fast the right foot brake PEDAL pulsates madly in LOST TRACTION braking, that is what it does.
and as you know that make stopping longer time. as any RACER knows and the turn it off, so the brake racing , tail gating other cars and not get killed doing so.
there is no way to convey feelings of brakes in a text box, how?
have brake shop test your brakes.?
can be tested on ICE, snow , mud and grass.
on pavement ABS is offline, until a wheel; skids
so on pavement what must the car do
stop fast not skid and not case car to run braking or pull on steering wheel the brakes, doing that. ever.
fast straight stops.
stopping distance is a factor of good wires and pads/shoes and disks,

ABS prevents panic mode stops and skids, pure panic.
a good driver needs no ABS but....
exception ABS can help a car stop better with bad brakes, say one set pads are thin and bad. so ABS unloads this set. (modulates them deep) and the other 3 get more aggressive. (then new cars have more, called traction controls and stability controls and more)

The ABS will increase stopping distances. when active only (feel pulse yes active) and skidding now. not inactive ever , as that is normal braking..
http://www.fixkick.com
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#13
the buzzing sound and all that,?
does not matter, a wit, actual
the modulation rate is not what does the job
it is the duty cycle of the solenoid that matter and that alone. (the ABS brain does the MOD)

some solenoids on some cars are smaller and faster
and some or larger and slower
and means nothing to any driver, or mech. (unless ABS is failing and you did not scan it)
just the duty cycle of the pulse train matters, the longer the solenoid is in bypass mode, the less braking happens on that wheel and skid stops.

The ABS brain, watches all wheel sensors (rpm counters) and if one tire slows, abnormally , it measures the rate of error on that tire and comes up with
a modulation profile for that exact error , and is FULLY DYNAMIC and can change fast , the tire to ground slip and ABS reactions
this now ABS works. even in turns it knows inside wheels turns slower and uses different rules braking in turns.
http://www.fixkick.com
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#14
(12-18-2020, 10:32 PM)fixkick Wrote: the buzzing sound and all that,?
does not matter, a wit, actual
the modulation rate is not what does the job
it is the duty cycle of the solenoid that matter and that alone. (the ABS brain does the MOD)

some solenoids on some cars are smaller and faster
and some or larger and slower
and means nothing to any driver, or mech. (unless ABS is failing and you did not scan it)
just the duty cycle of the pulse train matters, the longer the solenoid is in bypass mode, the less braking happens on that wheel and skid stops.

The ABS brain, watches all wheel sensors (rpm counters) and if one tire slows, abnormally , it measures the rate of error on that tire and comes up with
a modulation profile for that exact error ,  and is FULLY DYNAMIC and can change fast , the tire to ground slip and ABS reactions
this now ABS works. even in turns it knows inside wheels turns slower and uses different rules braking in turns.
Gracias Señor fix, What would we do without you? I will check the alternator, wiring and battery and see what gives. The battery is new and is slightly bigger than the stock but was a cheap battery. Incidentally I do have LED bulbs. The stock lights in combination with my old eyes meant that any driving at night was lethal and the LED's make night driving fun again. But still, even with the complexity of the LED drivers I guess the voltage shouldn't drop.
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