Fixkick. thanks again for all the good advice.
I am already reading chapter 6 (before removing the head).
As I mentioned, I didnt pay attention to the car in the last 2 years ( my wife was driven it).In the last months I havent used the car because I was fixing (rebuilding the transfer case). So I only started the engine a couple of times in the last 8-9 months.
History means not much to me, only facts, tests, evidence.
I found a bad rotor, and a defective distributor cap, so probably that caused the EFI problems. So will bad HV wires. get mag wires. for this car.
The pistons carbon deposits looks bright because the oil that I added for the compression test.
yes, but the carbon, the carbon there is huge, its not from any test., oil yes, carbon no.
Is that OK to use platinum bosch 4 spark plugs on these cars? I was using these ones.
USES only J plugs, and .028" gap, no spark plug comes pre-gapped, as they fit 1000s of cars. etc.
this car does not have HEI spark so can not use sparkplug found in modern engines (high energy igntion is not here)
both the Bosch and NGK free on line catalog tell you the correct plugs to run, there are at least 3 classes.
stock[ nickel , platinum, or Iridium, each work great, the difference is how long they last, but if engine burns oil just use the stock ones,
you never told me what kind of smoke? nor where it shows up.
The crack in the exhaust manifold is almost no noticeable. (but that gap changes with temperature, so.....)
not noticeable to you but that does not matter what matters is to the ECU (02) .
I will upload a photo as soon I can ( working out of town right now and doing these repairs during my spare weekend time)
That carbon speaks volumes, it tells me the engine ran super rich for many years, there are many causes, did the CEL lamp come on driving?
the number 1 reason is (besides not doing a simple tuneup,"complete") are BAD FPR, many are now, this old , running for 24 years, and all that.
this is found by using a fuel pressure gauge, and finding out fuel pressure is not correct,
the Diag jumber, did you ever insert this simple jumper wire to see if code 12s flash out the CEL lamp>???? if no, (other codes) this is why all that carbon.
a good running engine makes no carbon, it burns it all, all fuel burned to carbon dioxide, not carbon, carbon is EVIDENCE.
there are a number of tests.
the engine running hot, at idle will run in CLOSED LOOP, if not , it makes carbon. and wastes fuel.
Closed loop needs a working 02 sensor, if there is an air leak anywhere near it, the sensor becomes useless. back in 1992, the ECU was dump and went
10 times too rich in this failed mode. and makes tons of carbon. even MPG as low as 15mpg.
there are other causes, for 4 cylinders super rich. on the G16b , these are not guesses, its just a list. what fails is by fate/time/entropy.
all that matters is, what is.
never had full tune up in last decade (this is first) "you cant burn gasoline (petrol) with bad spark, some maybe but no ALL"
1 fuel pressure wrong, too high, FPR bad, as many find now. this old. its common.
2:injectors leak, but i think not all 4 do , so, not this.
3:02 dead (for many reasons. not only the 02 bad as all 24year old sensors are, but it bad or heater bad or AIR leaks near it ! (exhaust cracks)
4: MAF dead (jumper diag tell you it is?) see my MAF test, using a simple voltmeter.
5: ECT bad.
6: EGR dead and engine pings badly, and a pile of ugly symptoms.
the exhaust header goes to a vacuum (pulse) just after each putt, this confuses many folks, (they think it blows only) but it does suck and if it has a crack
it will suck air and air is 20% oxygen , and 20times too much for any O2, to work,, this is true on all cars, now. all with EFI, in not some JDM cars.
all cars in the modern world. (EFI)
have proof of this, fact. (pressure plots)
(old 90s cars are not easy to diagnose) (one rule, if you see a bad part, why the hesitations)
we can prove yours out in a shop, we scope the 02, and its slammed to 0v. and can scope the spark, to see if the plasma is working right.
oops its dead.
we replace 02,
its still slammed to 0v, then we replace the gaskets (near) and its still slammed to 0v (means gross lean readings, and LIES to ECU)
then off comes the shields, and OMG #4 is cracked, just like all do run in limphome and overheated.
in limp home mode the header glows, cherry red and the cat melts. still have a CAT?
if car was in USA and was 1996 we can see the 02 live (scans) see, it , omg, its stuck, at 0v. and if the heater is dead, all in 5min work.,
but your car is OBd1 and 10x more hard to diagnose. (we use meters and scopes to fix old cars,lacking the relic, tech1 scan tool.
your engine ran real bad for a long time. tons of carbon.
Ive see cars that were run for 10 years, in limphome and CEL glowing ever inch of the way.
The car has dumb ECU , that means CEL out does not mean all is well, (this is one reason OBD2 was invented of many)
The old car ECU loves to get lost too, and goes rich and not tell you, it is lost.
what does lost mean. here is 1 example
Fuel pressure at 60psi, 2x normal.
and ECU has no clue it is, (it cant see that fact) and gets lost. trying to inject, correctly, (all the early cars do that)
one ,more
cheers
There is not ridge at all. I did the nails test in all of them.
GOOD< I guess all you had is a bad headgasket, but compression did not show that.
so might be early leak not big yet, or is carbon causing rings to stick in lands, as is normal for engine run with BAD EFI.
No. I didnt polish the block.(keep in mind, please that Im not there with eyes, nor see what is done, all i have are 2D photos... and so may see what is not there, or miss things, due to my not being there....
I Used a a soft brass wire brush wheel to remove the gasket and carbon, then I used a rag with thinner to clean the surface.
good !
Could you please point out the oil gallery orifice plug?
it's on my 97 engine rebuild page and basic engine rebuild page.
on the deck its the small hole, front left (left means drivers perspective)
on the head, upside down, belt side to belly, its front right side, in hand.
if you look here , see the actual gallery casing going to the main gallery, up to head.
this orifice prevents mains from blowing up if cam blows. see?
http://www.fixkick.com/engine/97-motor-p...ge_20.html
the orifce is an allen key fit, plug.
http://www.fixkick.com/engine/97-motor-p...ge_31.html
seen here.
I always use antifreeze. 50% mixture. Could be the pretty bad tap water that I used for the mix.
not its not tap, tap only has minerals in it, its not bad. but someone long ago abused the cooling, its just more evidence.... nothing more.
[/quote]
here you can crank engine and see if oil flows here, as a test, head off.
![[Image: pull-day2%20%285%29.JPG]](http://www.fixkick.com/engine/97-motor-pull/extras/pull-day2%20%285%29.JPG)
I am already reading chapter 6 (before removing the head).
As I mentioned, I didnt pay attention to the car in the last 2 years ( my wife was driven it).In the last months I havent used the car because I was fixing (rebuilding the transfer case). So I only started the engine a couple of times in the last 8-9 months.
History means not much to me, only facts, tests, evidence.
I found a bad rotor, and a defective distributor cap, so probably that caused the EFI problems. So will bad HV wires. get mag wires. for this car.
The pistons carbon deposits looks bright because the oil that I added for the compression test.
yes, but the carbon, the carbon there is huge, its not from any test., oil yes, carbon no.
Is that OK to use platinum bosch 4 spark plugs on these cars? I was using these ones.
USES only J plugs, and .028" gap, no spark plug comes pre-gapped, as they fit 1000s of cars. etc.
this car does not have HEI spark so can not use sparkplug found in modern engines (high energy igntion is not here)
both the Bosch and NGK free on line catalog tell you the correct plugs to run, there are at least 3 classes.
stock[ nickel , platinum, or Iridium, each work great, the difference is how long they last, but if engine burns oil just use the stock ones,
you never told me what kind of smoke? nor where it shows up.
The crack in the exhaust manifold is almost no noticeable. (but that gap changes with temperature, so.....)
not noticeable to you but that does not matter what matters is to the ECU (02) .
I will upload a photo as soon I can ( working out of town right now and doing these repairs during my spare weekend time)
That carbon speaks volumes, it tells me the engine ran super rich for many years, there are many causes, did the CEL lamp come on driving?
the number 1 reason is (besides not doing a simple tuneup,"complete") are BAD FPR, many are now, this old , running for 24 years, and all that.
this is found by using a fuel pressure gauge, and finding out fuel pressure is not correct,
the Diag jumber, did you ever insert this simple jumper wire to see if code 12s flash out the CEL lamp>???? if no, (other codes) this is why all that carbon.
a good running engine makes no carbon, it burns it all, all fuel burned to carbon dioxide, not carbon, carbon is EVIDENCE.
there are a number of tests.
the engine running hot, at idle will run in CLOSED LOOP, if not , it makes carbon. and wastes fuel.
Closed loop needs a working 02 sensor, if there is an air leak anywhere near it, the sensor becomes useless. back in 1992, the ECU was dump and went
10 times too rich in this failed mode. and makes tons of carbon. even MPG as low as 15mpg.
there are other causes, for 4 cylinders super rich. on the G16b , these are not guesses, its just a list. what fails is by fate/time/entropy.
all that matters is, what is.
never had full tune up in last decade (this is first) "you cant burn gasoline (petrol) with bad spark, some maybe but no ALL"
1 fuel pressure wrong, too high, FPR bad, as many find now. this old. its common.
2:injectors leak, but i think not all 4 do , so, not this.
3:02 dead (for many reasons. not only the 02 bad as all 24year old sensors are, but it bad or heater bad or AIR leaks near it ! (exhaust cracks)
4: MAF dead (jumper diag tell you it is?) see my MAF test, using a simple voltmeter.
5: ECT bad.
6: EGR dead and engine pings badly, and a pile of ugly symptoms.
the exhaust header goes to a vacuum (pulse) just after each putt, this confuses many folks, (they think it blows only) but it does suck and if it has a crack
it will suck air and air is 20% oxygen , and 20times too much for any O2, to work,, this is true on all cars, now. all with EFI, in not some JDM cars.
all cars in the modern world. (EFI)
have proof of this, fact. (pressure plots)
(old 90s cars are not easy to diagnose) (one rule, if you see a bad part, why the hesitations)
we can prove yours out in a shop, we scope the 02, and its slammed to 0v. and can scope the spark, to see if the plasma is working right.
oops its dead.
we replace 02,
its still slammed to 0v, then we replace the gaskets (near) and its still slammed to 0v (means gross lean readings, and LIES to ECU)
then off comes the shields, and OMG #4 is cracked, just like all do run in limphome and overheated.
in limp home mode the header glows, cherry red and the cat melts. still have a CAT?
if car was in USA and was 1996 we can see the 02 live (scans) see, it , omg, its stuck, at 0v. and if the heater is dead, all in 5min work.,
but your car is OBd1 and 10x more hard to diagnose. (we use meters and scopes to fix old cars,lacking the relic, tech1 scan tool.
your engine ran real bad for a long time. tons of carbon.
Ive see cars that were run for 10 years, in limphome and CEL glowing ever inch of the way.
The car has dumb ECU , that means CEL out does not mean all is well, (this is one reason OBD2 was invented of many)
The old car ECU loves to get lost too, and goes rich and not tell you, it is lost.
what does lost mean. here is 1 example
Fuel pressure at 60psi, 2x normal.
and ECU has no clue it is, (it cant see that fact) and gets lost. trying to inject, correctly, (all the early cars do that)
one ,more
cheers
There is not ridge at all. I did the nails test in all of them.
GOOD< I guess all you had is a bad headgasket, but compression did not show that.
so might be early leak not big yet, or is carbon causing rings to stick in lands, as is normal for engine run with BAD EFI.
No. I didnt polish the block.(keep in mind, please that Im not there with eyes, nor see what is done, all i have are 2D photos... and so may see what is not there, or miss things, due to my not being there....
I Used a a soft brass wire brush wheel to remove the gasket and carbon, then I used a rag with thinner to clean the surface.
good !
Could you please point out the oil gallery orifice plug?
it's on my 97 engine rebuild page and basic engine rebuild page.
on the deck its the small hole, front left (left means drivers perspective)
on the head, upside down, belt side to belly, its front right side, in hand.
if you look here , see the actual gallery casing going to the main gallery, up to head.
this orifice prevents mains from blowing up if cam blows. see?
http://www.fixkick.com/engine/97-motor-p...ge_20.html
the orifce is an allen key fit, plug.
http://www.fixkick.com/engine/97-motor-p...ge_31.html
seen here.
I always use antifreeze. 50% mixture. Could be the pretty bad tap water that I used for the mix.
not its not tap, tap only has minerals in it, its not bad. but someone long ago abused the cooling, its just more evidence.... nothing more.
[/quote]
here you can crank engine and see if oil flows here, as a test, head off.
http://www.fixkick.com
![[Image: exhaustscavenging-p1-1.JPG]](http://www.fixkick.com/exhaust/exhaustscavenging-p1-1.JPG)