Scratched up Head

[Samistine]

Upon reinstalling I had trouble with the alignment pins. This is what it looked like before reinstalling it with assistance.

http://imgur.com/a/lrtXu1T

Im planning on finishing up my engine tommorow. Leaving it as shown in the pics.

[fixkick]

if the pins are missing 2 horrable results
1: gasket backward now tiny .050" OIL oriface is blocked,and cam and valve seizer.
2: ;cam belt never runs true ever then shreads.

not good.

[Samistine]

I still have the pins, I just slid the head around on the pins causing scratches

[fixkick]

ouch.
better hope the gasket, likes that.
how bad scratches, are, I can not guess.
nor where.
Id attempt to file them with very find file, to get it flat, ----V----- here is a scratch get the upper V flat to the -----

[Samistine]

What am I supposed to be looking for, when checking top end oiling. I’m having trouble seeing if any oil is coming to the top. There’s already oil up here from me pouring some in. I think it might be oiling the lobes, but it’s just so hard to tell. There’s no noticeable oil flow.

Video:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/wNm1qrnfu13Hgt9R7

I am considering taking off one of the middle of the 6 camshaft holders. And watching the hole for fluid coming out.

[fixkick]

What am I supposed to be looking for, when checking top end oiling.
I can crank the engine, no fuel pump rely present, (unpugged)
and get 50psi on the sender hole, (gauged)
and see cam bearings flow oil and land on all valves stems, if not the cam will seize. and valves next if you actually start the engine.
the head bottom has 0.050" inch inch head flow restriction device. (it can be removed, and cleaned with allen wrench.)

http://www.fixkick.com/engine/97-motor-p...ge_31.html
the purpose of this device, I think is cam snaps, the flow is now so great for rod and mains, not to seize next,(a fail safe this is)


I’m having trouble seeing if any oil is coming to the top. There’s already oil up here from me pouring some in. I think it might be oiling the lobes, but it’s just so hard to tell. There’s no noticeable oil flow.

Video:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/wNm1qrnfu13Hgt9R7

I am considering taking off one of the middle of the 6 camshaft holders. And watching the hole for fluid coming out.

part of any head works is oil gallery cleaning, for sure. (during new valves or valve grinds or guides new)

[fixkick]

i don't see oiling either, in your vid. (on a engine running, valve cover off, oil will fly every where, making a huge mess) just so you know NORMAL. (have done this to see if I see water/antifreeze leaks (cracked heads or those freeze plugs leaking)
not saying do that above, just telling what it looks like for normal top end oiling, its is massive oiling, for sure.
COLD cranked engines, (can even be done on a pallet before installing and engine, in vain)
why not do pressure first. 50psi at full cranking speeds, no spark plugs, no fuel pump relay, throttle blocked (so no vacuum and engine sucking on TV throttle plate)
that 50 Psi is at 10-30w oil, not 0w.
as a step after major engine, work is not start engine ever if this fails. for any reasons. (see how to prime a pump)
http://www.fixkick.com/engine/97-motor-p...ge_53.html

why erased all that cash and labor.? (basics)

[Samistine]

I bought an oil pressure gauge and will check tommorow. I poked the oil gallery with a small pin and didn’t feel any blockage when assembling. I’m thinking i just need to crank it a bit longer? Car hasn’t run in 1-2 months.

[fixkick]

G16B engine 16valves, no history. (please tell a bit , ok?)
you had the head off, why? (new rebuilt head by pro shop or?)
was the oil filter removed? (on any engine, that has seen lots of work for sure drained oil , and filter removed its best to prime the pump first run.)
HOW:?
remove filter, and FILL the filter full of 10w-30 oil and pan full of oil to top of dipstick. Put filter back quickly to avoid too much spilling.

then crank it with sparks out, and WOT, (block open throttle tad) so the engine can breath, and get max 300 rpm cranking speed, easy (saves battery strain)
WOT = wide open throttle in this case even 1/2 throttle is plenty (the engine is an air pump and vacuum pump)
Next:
fuel pump relay out, pulled below ECU, greens socket, relay, to stop fuel flow. (safety) (relay moved to right side heater box in 1996 USA)
No year car stated, so...................
now crank for 5 , seconds, stop 1min, repeat 5sec, 1min, , say 3 times, and check for top end oiling. if no flow of oil do not start/run the engine.
TOP end fails:
check for oil pressure if there is no top end oil, this is all standard practices on any shop that rebuilds engines. (or goes bankrupt fast)
it only takes 1 tiny bit of junk to land in that tiny 50 thousands inch inch head orifice.

This is why not using RTV sealants in this engine is so wise. (yes the pan is RTV sealed in Iwata japan new. but under very careful steps.)
one cause of RTV contamination is (rtv gluing is say) down some old leaking valve cover gasket and a bit of this crap lands in the pan, and the sucked through the oil pump. and past a clogged up oil filter and bam, lands in the head, or far far far worse any bearing shell, mains or rods.

yes a good shop has oil pressure gauge, the pressure is regulated by the small reg on left front of oil pump at about 50 psi.
if the pump primes? this is the normal cold pressure., if all bearings in the engine or ok, this normal pressure, cold and hot is less but we are NOT HOT yet.

I bought an oil pressure gauge and will check tomorrow. I poked the oil gallery with a small pin and didn’t feel any blockage when assembling. I’m thinking i just need to crank it a bit longer? Car hasn’t run in 1-2 months.

more reasons or zero pressure and no top end oiling
the pan /pump screen is clogged up.(gung on screen packed)
the pump is bad, or the regulator stuck wide open bypassing all or most of the pump output, (a bad pump)
some or all bearing shot, in mains or rods or many at once. (this is why oil pressure is so important to check on any engine)
the pump oil pickup and screen fell off and landed in bottom of pan or 1/2 off dangling , leaking air and sucking air causing pump to not pump oil.
the pump screen assembly has an oil ring, if missing or cracked, sucks AIR and the pump stalls, dead. will not pump oil if air is sucked first.

hot oil pressure running at idle 800 is about 20PSI and increases as you increase RPM at throttle. 10w-30 oil, (standard oil spec oil)

hope this helps you, good luck to you too@!!!!

[fixkick]

on a new engine or rebuilt fully or new oil pump
we prime (pack ) the pump full of vasiline.

set 33 really is step or or near. or as many pump makers do , its factory packed in the box and pump is in plastic bag. all sealed up ready for action.
not saying to pack your pump, just letting you know that all steps, and car are done to not run any cam/rod/main dry not even for seconds, oK>
and engine is assembled with assembly lube. never dry, some race shops use only engine oil but the engine is on test stand in hours and run in on the stand and tested fast.
a rebuild-er use real assembly lube so he can pack the engine up and might site in crate for 1year.
all this to not damage and engine first start.

http://www.fixkick.com/engine/97-motor-p...m-end.html