Replacing the A/C Compressor

[rasmeidirt]

I am planning to replace the A/C compressor for my Sport. The old one does not produce enough coolness anymore. Are there any other issues to look into when putting the new compressor? I have checked rockauto.com. They have some models that I don't know they are good compressors or not?

[fixkick]

REDUX2

Q#1: , what was out door humidity and temps, at your failure (weak vent coolness)? ?
this was a "will you Second guess, my A/C mechanic."

answer, sorry, I can not ever do that, it's impossible , I can't see him nor can i do all tests.

your symptoms are not clear at all.
the tests are not done correctly are missing key facts, and or is not fully and accurately reported here. RPM and Humidity not reported, during tests.
the compressor is just one parts
and does not just get replaced like light bulb or a water pump on an engine.
its a loop system that is very easy to have hidden damage and leaks .
why not let your A./C man do his job.??

[rasmeidirt]

The reason to ask is to get second opinions on this vs. the AC shops. They are urging to change the compressor because what they say it is very weak now and cannot be fixed.

It has been like this for two years now. Last year when I get the car checked at one shop. What they did was to use their tool with two gauges hang under the hood with the car on idle and AC on. They insert only one gauge, the left one (passenger side of the car) into the connection in front of the air box. With the ac on at idle they tried to increase the acceleration and the needle of the gauge pointed to 40 and now it pointed to 50. They say it is very weak! Does the old compressor really get weak that need to change?

My city is Phnom Penh, Cambodia. The temperature during the day is 38c to 40c which is really hot!

[fixkick]

im a net bunny, im not an A/C shop.
i cant test , or inspect your system.
why not go to a second shop, and let them diagnosis it,
that be best, no person on the internet can test or inspect your cars A/C, no guess, nor use a magic crystal ball and see , ahhhhhhh, bad expansion valve.... or>?
you dont even have to tools so, if I told you each step 1 by 1 , you'd not be able to do it.
nor can i second guess any other mechanic.
all i can say is, IF the clutch is still engaged and front fan is on, and AC cold at vents are poor, parked only fan on high , in RECIRC mode, then the refrigerant loop has issues, serious issues, .

[rasmeidirt]

Just for the tem reference:
http://www.weatheryou.com/City/Weather/P...elsius=Yes

Thanks for your comments!

[fixkick]

only numbers matter.
we need all numbers or all questions and answers are useless.
it's pure physics this case.
The R134a works just like both charts show.
and is very poor at high humidity.
but you never stated what poor is? , in C at the vent. no the out door humidity at the time.
so?
20C, at vent, 30C, 40C> the numbers matter. and the system stabilized at max AC. in reCIRC mode.

[rasmeidirt]

Today I have times to get the car checked for the numbers at a proper workshop.

- The high pressure side is 200psi
- The low pressure side is 45psi
- The vent temperature is 8C
- The temperature outside of the car is 33C.

Note: All these numbers are measured under the roof of the workshop. During the check, the acceleration is increased periodically. The temperature in the sun outside may be over 40C!!!!

They also confirmed the compressor gets weaker and weaker and should be changed along with the condenser and the drier bottle.
So what do you think with these numbers?

Thanks,

[fixkick]

vent is 8c or 46F degrees, (nice and cold, in fact, beats the spec, except super low out door humidity.)
why is out door humidity not measure ? this matters in the charts. is it 70% or 90% as it can be there,, (common) right now its 70% there. so?
what do you want, ? 8c is good.
200 psi high side, at 2000 rpm engine RPM, per book? or idle speed,?

why is 8c not good?, please tell that story,? the spec, is 19C


this charge table and performance below is , out of the 1996 factory book. (on car)
see 70% on the left , that is you.. move to 32C *(amb) then to 21C (vent) on right, you beat the table by 13C,

[rasmeidirt]

Vent is 8C is under the roof. The mechanic says it should be either 3 or 4.

Outside the shop in the sun is around 40C (ambient temperature).

Humidity outside? They do not have the tool to tell me!!
Idle speed is 1000RPM because AC is engaged.
You said it is cold, unless we drive the car under the roof!

[fixkick]

Vent is 8C is under the roof. The mechanic says it should be either 3 or 4.

Outside the shop in the sun is around 40C (ambient temperature).

Humidity outside? They do not have the tool to tell me!! (ever radio station and air port in town reports humidity) all do. it not hard to find this.
Idle speed is 1000RPM because AC is engaged. ,. no, the manual tell you to check pressures at 2000, see that table above, its clear, no?
You said it is cold, unless we drive the car under the roof! (i dont know what this means.??

AC at 8c is working, why is 8c not good, tell me, in fact its AMAZING.
does your system leak freon? R134a?
other reasons are, ?
no ac, at stop signs.(parked)
leaks.
noise.
fan in front dead, blower in cab dead, or slow.

try to understand, i cant drive your car and see all things good and bad, both matter, parked, and moving, performance,
it's not a simple device.

---

is this the first car you have ever owned with A/C
last time i was there, no cars there with A/C so..... (or no parts there to fix one)

---

if you park car in sun the body 2000+ pounds will heat up, to as much as 200F.
can cook and egg on the roof.
the AC at 8c, will take a long time to cool off that huge thermal mass (the car , steel/iron and plastic, mass)
this is normal.