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Pulling tranny for clutch...
#1
I've never pulled a tranny to do a clutch. Can you use a normal jack or is it best to rent some sorta tranny jack?

thanks!
John

ps. I received a quote from AMCO of $840 to do the job.
95 Geo Tracker, Build Date 1/95,16v, Fed, Cami, 4x4, MT, Headed for Grenada.
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#2
for sure not a bottle jack.
a trans jack works best, (harbor freight)
http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsear...ssion+jack

ive used Item #39178
the trolley jack way works ok, i've taken the top end pieces, and welded a 12" flat bar to it and drilled 2 holes there, then used tie down strap it "I"
bolts fitted tot he flat bar. DIY home made,trans jack, for pennies.
http://www.fixkick.com/tranny/clutch/new...howto.html


4wd?
lots of ways to do this,. in garage? , at the street a curb., on a lift. , on top of a garage pit. lacation is every thing.
in garage, on stands, setting frame, higher, that tip of bell ! step7

then some just pull the transfer case, first, if weight for your is hard.

step 17, takes tools that prevent the trans for rotating and falling on you,
many tool rental shops ,rent tranny jacks. it a very common to see tool for rent. $10 a day?
ps, dont let the distributor smash against the fire wall, use a board there, per FSM
did you read the free fsm yet>? its there.
chapter 7B? page 32 +

Cheers !

(12-08-2014, 12:23 PM)cosmic_splatter Wrote: I've never pulled a tranny to do a clutch.
Can you use a normal jack or is it best to rent some sorta tranny jack? "what is normal"

thanks!
John

ps. I received a quote from AMCO of $840 to do the job.
http://www.fixkick.com
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#3
revised pages.
http://www.fixkick.com/tranny/clutch/new...howto.html
http://www.fixkick.com
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#4
Thanks Fixkick!

Where does the jack go along the long tranny? Is the balance point where you have the juice can in this photo?
http://www.fixkick.com/tranny/images/t2.jpg

John
95 Geo Tracker, Build Date 1/95,16v, Fed, Cami, 4x4, MT, Headed for Grenada.
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#5
ok , the engine has its own mounts, and balance , near center with no transmission.
the trans mount fits under the trans tail.
to remove the trans, you drop that mount.(a cross rail) (take look there see 2 out board bolts at the ends if the cross member.
you drop the trans from there, you lift the weight of the trans (below trans center, with a trolly jack and then remove the 4 bolts and then let it down,. to get all the other stuff off.
vent hoses, senders.etc.
then remove the cross member my jack is not touching the member its on the center of trans, (did you read the FSM yet?)
I remove the member (tranny cross member)
now the trans, if held with straps, you can remove trans, you do not wont the trans to roll on you , as the bell detaches.

there are 2 balance points, then engine neat, (for get this , its just sits there happy)
and the trans,
I have no idea where the trans 4wd balances. there are 2 boxes here, one side is more heavy, i forget that. but vaguely, its a tad off center for sure.
and i think a tad to the rear of the measured center line. end to end. the xfr case is the piggy.! if memory serves me well,, but not lately......grin.
but is a moot point with a trans jack this avoids all this guessing (straps) and rolling.
http://www.fixkick.com
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#6
Thanks for this post, I'm about ready to drop my own.

1: If you are removing that rear mount, while suspending the trans, can you remove the works without taking the exhaust off?

2: Saw somebody on YouTube saying you have to remove the distributor to get enough 'tilt' to remove the transmission, but the video wasn't that trust inspiring. Will it just back straight out and drop, if you have things set up right? Your steps seems to indicate it's ok to leave the distributor in (as long as you add the wood block between engine and firewall). (I have 1992 Geo Tracker)

(thanks)

rc
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#7
the FSM is clear on this, did you read my link?
the dizzy out , only invites, 2 things, 1: it cant be crushed, then later, getting it retimed is a great tramma.. for many.
i dont know if your exhaust is stock, many are not, and on youtube, after 20 to 25 years, not.
and many youtubers are remove the A/T not m/t, and the A/t cars the exhaust is in the way of A/T plan.


photo 1 shows the block.
http://www.fixkick.com/tranny/clutch/new...howto.html


here is the exhaust. "stock?" its a CAT really. it can be in the way, if still stock.
http://www.fixkick.com/tranny/clutch/96underXFR1w.JPG

FSM chapter 7B pg. 32, step 21.
says to
disconnect the front header connector and tie the CAT to the left.
on some cars the cat is more skinny and i can get the left cross member bolts easy, (depends on what is there)

with all parts removed the tranny is only held by the bell housing bolts.
and will only drop when you slide it to the rear 2 to 3 inches to get the pilot shaft clear of its bearing and the pressure plate. FSM step 33. (my step 29)

the FSM shows, in step.14 to remove transfer case. ( i never do that ) but it can make it more easy. (less weight) and more work. (extension housing pull)
truly all m/t RWD cars and 4wd ,pull the same way,
the only difference is what's in the way.
on this car, its only the left cross-member issues. just look there.

the instructions are here, fully, every tiny step.
http://www.acksfaq.com/96-FSM-v1-7B-pdf.htm

http://www.fixkick.com/tranny/clutch/new...howto.html
see steps 18 +_

my cars both had new skinny cats.

i take mine out as one (5sp + XFR case)-
the FSM shows clearly to remove the transfer case, mid process. (the hidden bolt will stop you, and once out , is more work. under car.)
just drop the whole thing, and use a trans jack. but it is a personal choice. all this. (ways ,tools means, shop, etc)
i added a home made jack photo at the end,, haha jack.
http://www.fixkick.com
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#8
Thanks for the additional tips.

I read the page, did a search on "exhaust", got no hits, and didn't see the 'cat' mention until after posting. The FSM takes long time to show up in my browser, thought there was a glitch.

Thanks for the Jack-and-the-box photo. I have a HF 90 amp welder so can make a custom cradle, had in mind to use similar jack, as is all I have around here. Just have to make sure I have enough height on the car to do it. Working up the nerve to get started. Is a big job.
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#9
best is to look under car. the key factors for any RWD car are the mounts.
access to all mounts. and to be sure they are not damaged.
on one car (sidekick) , i found this cross-member twisted, like a pretzel. and the bolts were binding up.
look at this carefully to make sure you have access to all these 6 bolts.
on mine there, is a factory, off road, crash shield in the way. it must come off too. (its not any big deal, just some bolts)
shifter removed. (console off)
all wires.
all hoses. vents.
all cables x2
both prop shafts. (drain the boxes first or get a bath in Gear lube)
as i said, 20 years old cars rarely still have stock exhaust. many are aftermarket now or , modified, or have no CAT at all or like mine a modern skinny Cat.
it's and old car, first look and see what you have first.

great ,you can weld up a cradle. its really the best, to be safe.
once the cross member is off.
the tranny pulls out just like all do. RWD. front to rear.
the factor cat is , $1,430.07
so most folks , dont buy that the get this

i run these on small engines. 4 inches wide. one of the smallest made. TWC rated too. seen on many cars, now... not factory pig cat. that loves to rattle and break up inside.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dtc-77.../overview/

and less likely to hit something and crush the element. off roading...etc.
http://www.fixkick.com
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