Power steering

[Xoloski]

Everything feels tight, I only get the steering pause and slight noise at just off straight.
I did order lower ball joints for this service.

[Xoloski]

UPDATE  08/16/2020
Thanks for bearing with me, it's been a long road to get here.

I did find a slightly binding left front strut and a leaking left rear shock to I bought a set of struts & shocks.
The left outer CV boot was torn and I bought a new set of boots.
Upon disassembly I discovered the left front wheel bearing was rough and required replacement.
I installed new left wheel bearings & race, rebuilt the left half shaft with new boots, inspected and repacked the right wheel bearings.

I completed assembly today and started the engine. Rotated the steering wheel with the wheels off the ground and all was smooth. Placed the wheels on the ground and still have the balking - hesitation in the steering. I noticed the engine speed did not seem to increase with the added fluid pressure of turning the steering wheel, but instead decreased. I held the rpm around 1100 and turned the steering wheel and it turned smoothly without balking or hesitation.

I have no issue with the parts or work to service the wheel bearings and struts, it needed to be done. 

I suspected the steering pump pressure switch to be faulty.
The wire to the pump switch has 12.5 VDC, engine running.
The switch on the pump is open (has infinite resistance) to ground at idle and 3 ohms when the wheel is turned, the switch appears to function.
The engine idle speed is 775 RPM.
With the steering pressure switch wire grounded the RPM increases to 825.
Higher, but still not enough RPM to raise the pump pressure enough to provide smooth steering.
RPM spec for the auto trans is 800 and not adjustable.

At this point I am suspecting low power steering pressure, possibly caused by mileage (230K), worn valving, worn pump veins, worn pump valve spring tension. The pump makes no noise running or under pressure.
The power steering fluid does smell a bit burned and is dark. In a 1/2" diameter plastic syringe held up to the sun, the fluid is deep red.
I guess I should try a power steering fluid change. Spec is Dextron III.
I somehow don't think it will make a difference.

[fixkick]

UPDATE  08/16/2020
Thanks for bearing with me, it's been a long road to get here.

I did find a slightly binding left front strut and a leaking left rear shock to I bought a set of struts & shocks.
The left outer CV boot was torn and I bought a new set of boots.
Upon disassembly I discovered the left front wheel bearing was rough and required replacement.
I installed new left wheel bearings & race, rebuilt the left half shaft with new boots, inspected and repacked the right wheel bearings.

I completed assembly today and started the engine. Rotated the steering wheel with the wheels off the ground and all was smooth. Placed the wheels on the ground and still have the balking - hesitation in the steering. I noticed the engine speed did not seem to increase with the added fluid pressure of turning the steering wheel, but instead decreased. I held the rpm around 1100 and turned the steering wheel and it turned smoothly without balking or hesitation.

I have no issue with the parts or work to service the wheel bearings and struts, it needed to be done. 

I suspected the steering pump pressure switch to be faulty.
The wire to the pump switch has 12.5 VDC, engine running.
The switch on the pump is open (has infinite resistance) to ground at idle and 3 ohms when the wheel is turned, the switch appears to function.
The engine idle speed is 775 RPM.  (hot idle spec is steady no up and down surging and is 750 to 850 RPM hot coolant. so 755 is in slec.

With the steering pressure switch wire grounded the RPM increases to 825.  (1000 is 1991 up, is this car all 1991 and up, still me confused what car this is)
Higher, but still not enough RPM to raise the pump pressure enough to provide smooth steering.
bad pump or bad box.
RPM spec for the auto trans is 800 and not adjustable.   (the ECU controls idle all the time hot, )  nobody else.  on 1991+ car rpm is 1000 for AC on or PS overload. older cars have more  fast idle inputs.

At this point I am suspecting low power steering pressure, possibly caused by mileage (230K), worn valving, worn pump veins, worn pump valve spring tension. The pump makes no noise running or under pressure. (i think the pump is the cheaper fix.  and less work by far) assuming belt does not slip.

The power steering fluid does smell a bit burned and is dark. In a 1/2" diameter plastic syringe held up to the sun, the fluid is deep red.
I guess I should try a power steering fluid change. Spec is Dextron III. (III up, III is obsolete and all higher numbers are infact backwards compatible)
no lie scalpers sell III Dextron $30+ qte, for those that do not ask the maker of Dextron,.. no need for DEX III ever,
I somehow don't think it will make a difference. not me either, im pulling for bad pump.

that switch is overload, it only closed when you turn steering wheel, full max L/R and then try to more that possible this overloads the pump and  1000 RPM kicks in now, at switch closure.

825 rpm hot is wrong,.tells me ISC is messing up.
at hot idle turn on Blower, then headlamps at same time, rpm may drop a tad then bounce back to 800,  and regulate with those loads steady. hot engine.

[fixkick]

sorry i forgot this car is 1998 J18 sport
and I do not know ECU rules on idle speeds, at all,
books on J18 super rare, so sorry.
but I do think the pump is bad.

the J18 after all is a more powerful engine, and this ECU has been upgraded like 3 times why who knows. one is key on fuel pump prime is revised.
so fast idle for pump overload will be less. seem logical, that, more power at 800 rpm on 200 more cc displacement/
i have no deep experience on J18, just basics, and evolution of parts.
like this.
long ago did this, helping friend with J18 car.
https://fixkick.com/one-point-eight

[Xoloski]

OK here is the update.
I bought a used pump from a '96 sidekick with less than 90K miles. Looks exactly like mine and is real clean.
I removed mine and installed the new one.
Also replaced idler and tensioner bearings, and belts.
Flushed the pump with new Dex III, cleaned the reservoir and lines.
Bled the system by turning the steering wheel lock to lock 40 times running with wheels off the ground. Adjusted the fluid level.
With wheels back on the ground, engine running, turning the steering wheel even a little the new pump groans and steering is hard.
The system actually worked better before this newer pump.

The steering sector gear, has no slop or play and does not leak as one would expect from a worn steering sector.
When I had the front end apart and, tie rods disconnected from the knuckles, I could turn the steering gear with ease.
As a reminder, I replaced front struts, one wheel bearing, repacked the other, rebuilt locking hubs, inspected ball joints, tie rod ends, idler arm.
Guess at this point I will pull and disassemble and inspect the steering sector, unless I get any recommendations from the forum....

[fixkick]

OK here is the update.
I bought a used pump from a '96 sidekick with less than 90K miles. Looks exactly like mine and is real clean.
I removed mine and installed the new one.
Also replaced idler and tensioner bearings, and belts.
Flushed the pump with new Dex III, cleaned the reservoir and lines.
Bled the system by turning the steering wheel lock to lock 40 times running with wheels off the ground. Adjusted the fluid level.
With wheels back on the ground, engine running, turning the steering wheel even a little the new pump groans and steering is hard.
The system actually worked better before this newer pump.

The steering sector gear, has no slop or play and does not leak as one would expect from a worn steering sector.
When I had the front end apart and, tie rods disconnected from the knuckles, I could turn the steering gear with ease.
As a reminder, I replaced front struts, one wheel bearing, repacked the other, rebuilt locking hubs, inspected ball joints, tie rod ends, idler arm.
Guess at this point I will pull and disassemble and inspect the steering sector, unless I get any recommendations from the forum....

to me it seems you are on the right track,/...
wish you luck !

[Xoloski]

OK here is the update.
I bought a used pump from a '96 sidekick with less than 90K miles. Looks exactly like mine and is real clean.
I removed mine and installed the new one.
Also replaced idler and tensioner bearings, and belts.
Flushed the pump with new Dex III, cleaned the reservoir and lines.
Bled the system by turning the steering wheel lock to lock 40 times running with wheels off the ground. Adjusted the fluid level.
With wheels back on the ground, engine running, turning the steering wheel even a little the new pump groans and steering is hard.
The system actually worked better before this newer pump.

The steering sector gear, has no slop or play and does not leak as one would expect from a worn steering sector.
When I had the front end apart and, tie rods disconnected from the knuckles, I could turn the steering gear with ease.
As a reminder, I replaced front struts, one wheel bearing, repacked the other, rebuilt locking hubs, inspected ball joints, tie rod ends, idler arm.
Guess at this point I will pull and disassemble and inspect the steering sector, unless I get any recommendations from the forum....

to me it seems you are on the right track,/...
wish you luck !

Yesterday I attempted to loosen the steering gear pitman shaft lash adjustment screw, thinking perhaps someone had misadjusted the preload. This did ease the groaning sound a little and added play to the steering wheel. After this failed experiment, I returned the lash to its original setting.

[fixkick]

OK here is the update.
I bought a used pump from a '96 sidekick with less than 90K miles. Looks exactly like mine and is real clean.
I removed mine and installed the new one.
Also replaced idler and tensioner bearings, and belts.
Flushed the pump with new Dex III, cleaned the reservoir and lines.
Bled the system by turning the steering wheel lock to lock 40 times running with wheels off the ground. Adjusted the fluid level.
With wheels back on the ground, engine running, turning the steering wheel even a little the new pump groans and steering is hard.
The system actually worked better before this newer pump.

The steering sector gear, has no slop or play and does not leak as one would expect from a worn steering sector.
When I had the front end apart and, tie rods disconnected from the knuckles, I could turn the steering gear with ease.
As a reminder, I replaced front struts, one wheel bearing, repacked the other, rebuilt locking hubs, inspected ball joints, tie rod ends, idler arm.
Guess at this point I will pull and disassemble and inspect the steering sector, unless I get any recommendations from the forum....

to me it seems you are on the right track,/...
wish you luck !

Yesterday I attempted to loosen the steering gear pitman shaft lash adjustment screw, thinking perhaps someone had misadjusted the preload. This did ease the groaning sound a little and added play to the steering wheel. After this failed experiment, I returned the lash to its original setting.

i hope you can find a new box cheap and even good cheap used one.
there are parts inside that can bind up for sure bearings bad or  bushings..
all is good but this box so it seems,you did hard work to prove that. I think, nice hard work.
crossing fingers here......

[Xoloski]

Appreciate the suggestions, they are distinct possibilities. The '98 Sidekick sport is completely stock. I got it from the original buyer who drove it 50 miles back and forth to work every day between Hereford and Fort Huachuca.  He had custom wheels installed since new with caps covering the lock-out hubs. The previous owner told me that he never had the unit in four wheel drive. Judging by the grease in the hubs I believe it.  He gave me a maintenance log showing that the oil had been changed every 3K miles at Brake Masters in Sierra Vista, AZ . The previous owner said the Suzuki only left Cochise County once for a trip to the VA clinic in Tucson. I was looking for Sidekick parts for my '93 when the owner offered to sell this vehicle to me now that he is retired. The condition and originality are the reasons I bought it. 

Remedy:
Yesterday I attached my electric vacuum pump to the filled reservoir of the sidekick. With the wheels off the ground, vacuum pump pulling 15 inches of mercury, engine running at idle, I turned the steering wheel lock to lock for 7 minutes. The Dextron III fluid level dropped about 1.5 inches in the reservoir, there was no foaming or aeration. After refilling the reservoir and testing, I found all of the steering pump noises were gone, steering returned to normal and functioned as it should. 

Conclusion:
All steering issues were caused by air trapped in the hydraulic system to include Pump, lines, and gear.  With the engine running the hydraulic fluid would aerate and foam up, retaining air in the system. Under a vacuum, with the engine running the hydraulic fluid was depleted of air thus removing all the air from the system.
I have never had to remove air from a hydraulic system to this extreme in my life, and I have worked with a lot of hydraulic systems. 

I still maintain however that, there is no such thing as vacuum, only absence of air pressure.

[fixkick]

that is correct getting the air out is super hard on many cars and vacuum pump on cap adapter makes this 10x more easy.
they do the same thing on submarines too, and is 100x worse not using vacuum.
vacuum means zero bar,
the air pressure on earth is 14psi or 1 bar.
0 bar is vacuum and on the moon is crazy low vacuum,
vacuum always means atmosphere pressure near zero.
anything less that ambient air pressure can be called vacuum,,
the joke is , there is no vacuum the earth sucks.