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oil? 10w30?5w20? DUOOH
#1
91 8 valve.
OK i have in my garage a 55 gallon drum of Wolf's Head 5w-20 synthetic blend.
My tracker has 150,000 miles on it. Should I use this oil or go with 10-30 or whatever? I want the engine to have the best protection..it does have sight tapping when cold, and even after I adjusted the lash.. but the noise completely goes away when warm??

ALSO I use a LOT of Rotella 15-40 in older motorcycles since it is Diesel rated with ZDDP for older non-roller bearing camshafts.
I had used Rotella 15-40 in the tracker with good results in WARM weather, but when it got colder the engine made noise longer, until it warmed up, so I went back with 10-40.
but now since I have 55 gallons of 5-20.. Can I MIX OILS HAHAA?????
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#2
The 8v is a pussy cat and no high loading on cam.
i think any oil works in it, and viscosity is a climate issue. (id not run thinker oil in winter, to hide valve ticking and then compromise upper ring oiling.)

all solid lifters tick. even at perfect lash. (some folks cant even hear it, others its like wow, what is that noise, (humans sonic variances, age,etc)
and more ticking, with too thin oil on a hot day.

i never mix oils but you might be ok with one brand. (im just a chicken with mixing oils, not the oil its self , just the additives packages might CLASH)
but there are many folks that do it.
QOD: question of the day.....
Did engineer at Wolf and Shell ever have lunch and discuss mixing,,,,,, ??? i bet not.
Both companies use, proprietary additives. In fact is the most important part, besides, fresh oil, and Climate . (what one runs in ALASKA is unique)

is this 8v new or old?
if old it can have loose valve guides. (or the timing belt , is frayed?)
if loose , then ignore it cold or , run thicker oil.


all the best to you !!!
http://www.fixkick.com
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#3
(11-08-2014, 01:31 AM)fixkick Wrote: is this 8v new or old?
if old it can have loose valve guides. (or the timing belt , is frayed?)
if loose , then ignore it cold or , run thicker oil.


all the best to you !!!

All original 150K miles..motor never apart cept for new gates timing belt when I got it ?? 2 yr ago?
you think the 5-20 is ok then?
if so I'll get better mileage!!! 28.5 instead of 28!!!!!!!!
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#4
btw , the new J2360 lube , is now good for our 5speed and transfer case

http://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/tune-ups.html#axles


i update this whole section. from a new perspective. (owner has no idea what GL1,2,4,5, means.... )
GL4 will soon be on the INACTIVE list.
it is 50years old and needs to be dropped.

J2360 is it. see the mil spec links for all lube that pass the MIL testing, (independently tested)
http://www.fixkick.com
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#5
so you think in colder weather now the 5-20 is ok
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#6
cold depends.

its 63f here and 75 monday
but in fort Ukon Alaska its 1F.

you never seen the opr guide?

[Image: oil-spec95.JPG]

id not run that above 80f. not me.
for sure on 16v.
http://www.fixkick.com
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#7
all i know is that table. by Suzuki.
i'd take that fact to the bank.
sure would.

that -20 oil , would that not lower the right hand side of the table.?
only you know if that is a problem (climate)

id post to bob the oil guy

you may start a small war there. oil topics can go a little wild.
http://www.fixkick.com
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#8
It was the general consensus on Bob Is The Oil Guy that should:

put in 0ne quart of ROTELLA 15/40 (which I stock)
then the rest 5-20 and end up with what i need!!!
BTW I STRONGLY RECOMMEND Rotella 15-40 diesel in lawn mowers,motorcycles etc as it has additives no longer used in "eco oils"
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#9
tell my how consensus of non oil engineers, allows mixing oil.?
it's not their engine. not their $2000 loss.?
if if they did, and ran ok, what does antidote evidence prove ? Nothing, after all , maybe his oil is 5 years old and different.
Each maker of oil uses their own additive package, and are not compatible in many cases.
not one states that it is , in fact opposite.
why would anyone mix chemistry. with out knowing both engineers by name.?
sure free oil.

it's your car, your engine, and your risk.

most base oils mix great, as does syn
but you don't buy base oils, nor then buy the additives to top the off.
so ......
you can say , mix Chevron oil x with Chevron z oil. they use the same chemistry.
but mixing brands, that is crazy, talk. to me.
why do that?
why not call the maker of that huge tank of oil up and ask them this question, I'd bet you'd be surprised,
the poor guy on the phone has no idea at all what is in the other makers additives, and is a trade secret. so......
since it is a secret , (it is ) then how can "consensus" know or guess.
For sure I don't know , nor do I know of anyone on earth that does.

sorry.

sure in hot climates, for that heavy oil. Rotella 15-40 diesel (straight) I run it in my air cooled VW.
"55 gallons of 5-20."
55 gallons of what, made by whom and how long ago.?
call them. they all have a hot line, some have live online help or even a FAQ.
read the FAQ on "ThaT" MAKERS oil page, or even post a new question.
I'd call them.
Some oils mixed turns to sludge in a heart beat or when not expected ( at a ,magic temperature ! or with some water there. (all gas burns and makes water)
so testing that theory is hard, and very expensive when it fails.
that is why nobody tests that., it costs too much and changes every 6 months as the makers redesign the product. (why go here.??? at all?)

no religion here. just risks. of playing games with oil products.
if you rebuild an engine by hand, just once, you then take oil serious. not gaming it up.
http://www.fixkick.com
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#10
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well i have not mixed it yet as it is 20 degrees here.. it's all 5-20..
it is AMALIE (wolf head synthetic blend)
I got the drum for my garage, since most newer stuff takes this oil.
In my tracker, it starts easier now in the cold, and seems to quiet down quicker too.
in warmer weather, I will definitely use a different oil,, not mix it..but on my post in BITOG there was about 10 people said mix it.. I never mixed brands befor.. and it sounded funny to me too....
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