see all tests here. there is no reason to pull it, until all tests are done. 10 hours labors to find a bad cable is a shame.
http://www.fixkick.com/tranny/5speed-rebuild.html#Test
ok running or not. did you put the transfer case in neutral not running and can you shift now, in to 1st?
i disagree on the shift rails. why not pull the extension housing off, and see if you can shift, if you can , the box is AOK. so easy to do.
why would the shift rails fail, just parked, no way, JOSE'
also, since this is a A/T swap, id bet the cable dont work? right.
huh?
did you do the 1 inch rule, on the lever. that is on the right side of the bell?
did you set clutch free play (test only) to zero play and then do the 1 inch test and then see if the gears drag (grind or balk?)
is the clutch cable anchored at both ends? (casing of cable anchors, like all cables must)
i had one guy who was not a believer, so o put a "come along" on the clutch and pulled it 100 % tite (fwd) , now the tranny shifted to all 5 gears and Rev, and dead silent, no grind , no balk, and i said, SEE?
15min works saves 10 hrs.
time savers
rule out cable
rule out extension housing.
thank about 1st , and how it works.
if the clutch drags the synchro will not want to dog in.
so drop xfr case to neutral and the prop shaft is free (no tension)
and the 1st now engages. telling you the disc is dragging. It mist not.
first fails because both ends of box are stalled, the rear is normal, do to wheels on ground,
if you can not get 1st all ways stated above then the extension housing is bad.
if not bad, then shift rails next, then forks, then gears. (easy to harder)
i have fixed boxes where the forks are almost welded (heat) to the synrcho collars. and just hates to be shifted.
i keep an open mind, and lit my tests, find the truth, (like peeling an onion) deeper you go , more tears. LOL
ok one more
i saw a box. (suz 5sp)
the gate in the above photo , on this box found that one of the shift bars was not 100% relaxed in neutral.
it was because of the bad shifter plastics, allowed the shifter tip to go to the next gate and left the last gate partially engaged.
easy fix.
move all 3 gates in parallel, perfectly then install the shifter, after words, no issues ever again.
in neutral if the gage is not 100% square (rectangle actually) its WRONG.
http://www.fixkick.com/tranny/5speed-rebuild.html#Test
ok running or not. did you put the transfer case in neutral not running and can you shift now, in to 1st?
i disagree on the shift rails. why not pull the extension housing off, and see if you can shift, if you can , the box is AOK. so easy to do.
why would the shift rails fail, just parked, no way, JOSE'
also, since this is a A/T swap, id bet the cable dont work? right.
huh?
did you do the 1 inch rule, on the lever. that is on the right side of the bell?
did you set clutch free play (test only) to zero play and then do the 1 inch test and then see if the gears drag (grind or balk?)
is the clutch cable anchored at both ends? (casing of cable anchors, like all cables must)
i had one guy who was not a believer, so o put a "come along" on the clutch and pulled it 100 % tite (fwd) , now the tranny shifted to all 5 gears and Rev, and dead silent, no grind , no balk, and i said, SEE?
15min works saves 10 hrs.
time savers
rule out cable
rule out extension housing.
thank about 1st , and how it works.
if the clutch drags the synchro will not want to dog in.
so drop xfr case to neutral and the prop shaft is free (no tension)
and the 1st now engages. telling you the disc is dragging. It mist not.
first fails because both ends of box are stalled, the rear is normal, do to wheels on ground,
if you can not get 1st all ways stated above then the extension housing is bad.
if not bad, then shift rails next, then forks, then gears. (easy to harder)
i have fixed boxes where the forks are almost welded (heat) to the synrcho collars. and just hates to be shifted.
i keep an open mind, and lit my tests, find the truth, (like peeling an onion) deeper you go , more tears. LOL
ok one more
i saw a box. (suz 5sp)
the gate in the above photo , on this box found that one of the shift bars was not 100% relaxed in neutral.
it was because of the bad shifter plastics, allowed the shifter tip to go to the next gate and left the last gate partially engaged.
easy fix.
move all 3 gates in parallel, perfectly then install the shifter, after words, no issues ever again.
in neutral if the gage is not 100% square (rectangle actually) its WRONG.
http://www.fixkick.com
