Need wiring harness

[droflex]

1989 Sidekick 1.6l; Automatic

I need one of the wiring harnesses for this car.

I hope it would be easier that replacing each individual wire that is in that "bundle".

I had a short in those wires and now my alternator is not charging the battery and the temp sensor wire is cooked.

The car starts and runs but the alternator (new) won't charge the battery.

Is was hoping that there was a harness to replace just those wires that run along the right-side engine block. If so, what would the part number be and where can I get one?

Thanks!

[fixkick]

the full harness drawing, physical are only in a real FSM.
but the alternator is just 2 wires, not counting the ground or the big wire, to the fuse box.

the drawing is clear on that. those 2 wires.
2 colors

have you seen my schematics page.
and the 3rd link there is full pdf (horsed up nice)
here.
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/89/1990-scan-...lpages.pdf

page12
you do know that some alts will be dead, if the charge lamp is dead, is it? turn key lamp out. bingo, that can not be.... (fix first )
the other wire is ignition sense wire, fuse 8 (ig-coil, hot key on)

the charge lamp uses the same cluster power as all other lamps there, warning
so if they work so must the charge lamp if not burn out. (does it work keyon only?)
key on the warning lights glow, do they? and the charge?

page 11 show cluster wire. and lamp. ops.
fuse 8 is IG-coil
you turn the key and many things run off of fuse 8
and one is the alternator blk-white wire, if its 12v key on, at the alt then all is good, if not , run a new wire from there to fuse 8. problem solve
same with the white-red wire, it must go to a workingcharge light, if not, the alternator boot strap can fail.

the lamp provides startup current for the rotor coil. a missing or burned up lamp can cause the alternator to work only 1/2 the time.(toss coin)
the good times are the core magnetize of the alternator, key off, residual mag, it's called, something not guaranteed.
(depends on who made the alt, how that works out) but fix lamp first, and win , in all cases.....

the big cable must be good to the fender box. no corrosion here.
end to end did you look under the main box? are the lugs there green?


like this

http://www.fixkick.com/fuse-box1-failure2.jpg

last is alternator ground must be good
and if battery is bad, all alternators shut down. (prevents overvoltage and destroying expensive electronics in car)

is fan belt tight.>?
and engine hot rpm a 800, not 400?

[fixkick]

http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/89/M89/89-elect3a.jpg

cab box, fuse 8 shown
the scary part is there is no doc. that shows how all those wires route , out of fuse 8
there are splits and Daisey chains deep inside harness and hidden crimps.
i took harness all apart once, for fun, after cutting off all connectors for backups.
amazing what;s there inside hidden.
only connector splices (real connectors 2 pieces and pins) are fully covered.

[droflex]

"...you do know that some alts will be dead, if the charge lamp is dead..."

I'll check that tomorrow.

Burnt wires are my main issue. I replaced the alternator at least twice (maybe 3 times now) but it's still not charging the battery.

I know that o'reilleys parts are not the best but I figured at least one out of two (or three) would be good.

The last one I got (under warranty), I had them bench test it first to make sure it was good and I installed it in the parking lot.

After installation, I had them check it again with their mobile testing unit and the guy said it wasn't working (bad internal regulator I think he said).

It looks like I will have to splice each burnt section of wire with good wire so I can eliminate that from the equation.