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Need help on 96
Bought a 1996 original owner with 161,000 miles. Clean rig, ran great but unknown maintenance history. Decided to change timing belt,water pump,belts and all hoses. Followed all steps to the letter in the t-belt section then adjusted valve lash, then set dizzy. Everything checked out, pulled crank bolt, checke dfor damage, reinstalled with loctite blue at 94 lbs. Did all of the other maintenance suggested while apart, ie: throttle body ports,EGR,etc. Checked compression before buttoning up 160-165 on all cylinders. Buttoned everything up and it would not start. Slow cranking, some backfiring. Pulled everything back apart. All timing marks check out exactly. Timing belt is really stiff going on and when crankng during compression tests belt seems to be walking off the cogs. Checked the indexing on the idler, everything moving free. Rechecked distributor, rotor at #4 when cam gear E/dimple up at 12:00. Not sure what I am doing wrong. Any help is appreciated.
Hi hoffy30, would it start with test fuel?

Crank cog pointing at mark, cam pulley outer edge "e" pointing at 6 o'clock, rotor pointing at 1 pm, and spark plug wires in the right sequence: 1,3,4,2

Did you install back the distributor ground wire?
1996 Geo Tracker, CAMI, 16 valve, 5sp, 4x4, soft top, 2 door, no a/c
I somehow screwed up the plug wires to the distributor even though I had them marked. Also was off 1 tooth on the distributor. Running good now. The hoses were the worst part of the job. Ignorant placement to get to especially with the factory spring clamps. Thanks for the ideas.
welcome and glad you got it going
the belt walk is bad. this needs to be corrected.

1: if the head was not removed and the head to block guides (ferrel rings) missing. (canted head, issue)
2: the belt idler shaft. was installed wrong.
i think you did this wrong., you said you had a tight belt going on, and that is impossible. (the stud is loose on idler and its lever)
under the idler there is the spring lever tab. it fits up in side the back side of the idler and must index right. if not the idler will be canted.
and the belt will walk.

phase-II, step 11


see warning 13 on page.

good luck to you . !

that tang has to be inserted blindly that is why it is so tricky.

here is one that got crushed (top one) tang on left. here was an attempt to repair this damage.
[Image: pully%20plate2.jpg]

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