Mind of it own

[Beastcub]

My 94 Suzuki started doing something odd. It starts on the Key ON position. The starter will start the engine and disengage. Thenn once running it will re-engage the starter and make that horrible noise. Bad starter solenoid? Ignition switch?

[fixkick]

My 94 Suzuki started doing something odd. It starts on the Key ON position. The starter will start the engine and disengage. Thenn once running it will re-engage the starter and make that horrible noise. Bad starter solenoid? Ignition switch?

I't can only be 3 things,  the wiring is super super simple here, (stick shift 5speed or  AT? tranny?)
bad key switch,
wires from that point (start pin)
to the solenoid top of the starter.
and the starter, bad.(comes with a new solenoid so is 1 thing)
it is ONLY just one wire here,  

seen here clearly
a test to fine this is easy, (lacking a logging DMM meter)
remove the wire at the solinoide , blk/yellow spade connector
then not wire the spade on the solinoid to start the engine.
if that works bad wires or bad keyswitch, or someone with  old REMOTE START BS is there now or 1/2 there, and a mess hacked in.

or test #2 no transmission told so must say it this way,
start car  (neutral) release the clutch fast(pedal up),  and  that way ,no start signal can go to starter ever, (assumes not someone wrecking or by passing the clutch switch.
or if A/T car,  start car and shift drive or reverse fast if problem solved it is not the starter, but wiring or key switch.
beyond that a voltmeter finds this super easy, at pin blk/yellow. ( key release 0vdc only allowed here) ,  a 2 man job, lacking logging DMM/.

[Beastcub]

My 94 Suzuki started doing something odd. It starts on the Key ON position. The starter will start the engine and disengage. Thenn once running it will re-engage the starter and make that horrible noise. Bad starter solenoid? Ignition switch?

I't can only be 3 things,  the wiring is super super simple here, (stick shift 5speed or  AT? tranny?)
bad key switch,
wires from that point (start pin)
to the solenoid top of the starter.
and the starter, bad.(comes with a new solenoid so is 1 thing)
it is ONLY just one wire here,  

seen here clearly
a test to fine this is easy, (lacking a logging DMM meter)
remove the wire at the solinoide , blk/yellow spade connector
then not wire the spade on the solinoid to start the engine.
if that works bad wires or bad keyswitch, or someone with  old REMOTE START BS is there now or 1/2 there, and a mess hacked in.

or test #2 no transmission told so must say it this way,
start car  (neutral) release the clutch fast(pedal up),  and  that way ,no start signal can go to starter ever, (assumes not someone wrecking or by passing the clutch switch.
or if A/T car,  start car and shift drive or reverse fast if problem solved it is not the starter, but wiring or key switch.
beyond that a voltmeter finds this super easy, at pin blk/yellow. ( key release 0vdc only allowed here) ,  a 2 man job, lacking logging DMM/.

[fixkick]

not told correctly
I key on, this is called ignition on,seen above by "ON"
and not cranking now ever (is it?) starting and cranking are both the same words, as in starter motor seen below
if you crank over the engine is start mode, and release the key , and engine starts or not, the key releases via spring action goes back to "ON" and must, if not the key switch is bad.
if the key returns as it always did and now and the starter keeps going that is jammed solenoid. 99% of the time.
next time post if car is A/T or M/T tranny, so I can shorten my answers .

old starters love to fail and jam even shaft inside to the gear inside can gum up and jam, even simple clean and lube that shaft can fix it , zero parts to buy.
or the solenoid all by it self can fail. both mechanically OR ELECTRIC FAILED. (BOTH ARE JAMS) THEY DO SEE SOLENOIDS ALL BY THEM SELVES BUT TAKES LOTS OF SHOPPING
AS MOST OWNERS WANT TO SHOT GUN THE STARTER AND NOT MESS WITH SOLENOIDS AND BE STUCK WITH FIXING IT 2 TIMES... NEVER FUN THAT.

THE 2 TRICKS ABOVE I SHOWED YOU SOLVES THIS PROBLEM (DIAGNOSIS)
CLUTCH OUT, KILLS STARTER. ( THE STOCK CAR DOES not crank clutch pedal up ever, and begs to be used as a test this on M/T car) USA, some vitara in EU have no switch here.
A/T BOX, SHIFT FROM N OR P CRANKED THEN SHIFT FAST TO R OR d. (PRNDL LEVER) CAR CRANKS IN "NEUTRA" TOO. KEEP IN MIND CAR WANTS TO LEARCH FORWARD OR REVESE
SO HAND BRAKE SET AND FOOT ON FOOT BRAKE TO TEST, IF CAR IS CLEAR PATH FORWARD THE CORRECT TEST IS N TO D
IF CAR IS CLEAR ONLY TO THE REAR P TO R. IS THAT TEST.
IF STARTER NEVER FAILS DOING THE TEST, THE START IS OK, AND THE KEY SWITCH IS BAD. (RARE THE LATTER)