Failed Smog due to high HC. Need help!

[sina27]

Hey guys, 
I have a 1996 Tracker, 2WD, 5 Speed, 16 valve. 

I just put a new doug thornley header on it and a brand new magnaflow CAT. The car drives great! 
However I failed California smog. The hydrocarbon sniff test read around 90ppm, and the max allowed is around 60. 
I think the car is running rich at idle. If I drive the car for a while and then stop, I dont see any smoke. But if I let it idle for a few minutes, and then give it a bit of gas in neutral, it spits out a little bit of smoke. 

This is what I have done so far:

• New spark plugs (NGK BKR6E), gapped at .028
  
• New dizzy cap and wires
  
• New ISC
  
• New EGR valve
  
• New air filter 
  
• Made sure timing is at 5 degrees using a timing light
  
• Valve tappet adjustment
  
• Checked duty cycle, set at 50% when idling hot
  
• New thermostat. ECT sensor reads 300ohms when hot 
  
• FUEL PRESSURE TEST: Key on was at 42, and held at around 40 for at least a minute. Idling, I got around 32psi 
  
• I checked the continuity of the fuel injector and replaced the o rings etc... 
  
• COMPRESSION: did a compression test on a warm engine and I got anywhere between 163-175 on all pistons
  
• the check engine light is NOT on
  
• Both 02 sensors are less than 6 months old. I backprobed the upstream 02 sensor during idle, and it was fluctuating between 100mV-800mV. Is this normal for it "swing" 
  
• Cleaned my MAF. At idle, it shows 2 volts while back probing. If I give it throttle, it goes to 3V
  
• EGR VSV and EVAP VSV have correct resistance and "click" when I apply voltage using a battery
  

I have no idea whats going on. All the other readings from the smog test looked good- the only thing that failed was the high HC at 15mph. 
Like I said, it seems to run rich during idle. 
When I check my spark plugs, the top electrode is kind of white in color, which indicates lean...but I'm running rich. 
What gives? Anything else I should check? 

im currently running penzoil 5W-30. Should I try increasing the weight of the oil just for the smog test? What oil weight do you recommend? 

Thanks for all your help
Sina

[fixkick]

Hey guys, 
I have a 1996 Tracker, 2WD, 5 Speed, 16 valve. 

I just put a new doug thornley header on it and a brand new magnaflow CAT. The car drives great! 
However I failed California smog. The hydrocarbon sniff test read around 90ppm, and the max allowed is around 60. 
I think the car is running rich at idle. If I drive the car for a while and then stop, I dont see any smoke. But if I let it idle for a few minutes, and then give it a bit of gas in neutral, it spits out a little bit of smoke. 

This is what I have done so far:

• New spark plugs (NGK BKR6E), gapped at .028
  
• New dizzy cap and wires
  
• New ISC
  
• New EGR valve
  
• New air filter 
  
• Made sure timing is at 5 degrees using a timing light
  
• Valve tappet adjustment
  
• Checked duty cycle, set at 50% when idling hot
  
• New thermostat. ECT sensor reads 300ohms when hot 
  
• FUEL PRESSURE TEST: Key on was at 42, and held at around 40 for at least a minute. Idling, I got around 32psi 
  
• I checked the continuity of the fuel injector and replaced the o rings etc... 
  
• COMPRESSION: did a compression test on a warm engine and I got anywhere between 163-175 on all pistons
  
• the check engine light is NOT on
  
• Both 02 sensors are less than 6 months old. I backprobed the upstream 02 sensor during idle, and it was fluctuating between 100mV-800mV. Is this normal for it "swing" 
  
• Cleaned my MAF. At idle, it shows 2 volts while back probing. If I give it throttle, it goes to 3V
  
• EGR VSV and EVAP VSV have correct resistance and "click" when I apply voltage using a battery
  

I have no idea whats going on. All the other readings from the smog test looked good- the only thing that failed was the high HC at 15mph. 
Like I said, it seems to run rich during idle. 
When I check my spark plugs, the top electrode is kind of white in color, which indicates lean...but I'm running rich. 
What gives? Anything else I should check? 

im currently running penzoil 5W-30. Should I try increasing the weight of the oil just for the smog test? What oil weight do you recommend? 

Thanks for all your help
Sina

custom engine with these parts doug thornley header on it and a brand new magnaflow CAT

it can be very hard to pass that seller never ever got  calif CARB certification,I bet.
SEE BLACK SMOKE, SEEM THAT SMOKE AND SMELLS LIKE FUEL OR  UNBURNED FUEL
ok  one care like this (older and harder) filed only because the cat was to big and or too far from the exhaust ports. ( he spent a fortune until I told him this)
what that means is the cat must stay lite off, the ECU wastes fuel on purpose to do that. and the cat  eats up every drop of fuel doing so.
the cat runs to cold, is the other way to say the same thing a 1600 cc cat or 2000max is best range (eng. displacement) for the cat.

i guess P0421 test passed no DTC error and drove until the cat monitor test ran out.?
no DTC means nothing until all the test run out. called status monitors.

this 16v G16b  and compression speck is 195 PSI warm or not and less cold for sure
is you compression that low 163, if yes probably not done right , or bad gauge gee my 8v  can to 160 and CR is way less and is why the 16v does way more 30 psi more..
i say this with mind tracking belt slip  cam or bottom crank front cog key a wreck as seen on VAST.
the spark plugs must out and let the gauge peak the count turns rule is pure bogus myth seen well on the internet. peak it. same answer from 1920 to now. for a fact.
and throttle must be blocked open and kill spark or fuel , killing fuel is best ,  so no bath in fuel and smoking you be a flame thrower from ww2.

The  right cat is  a 3 way cat, and small for G16, and close the header collector as possible.
fuel pressure at spec, keyon , nostart and at idle both and regulates. and 6psI DIFFERENCE,  KEYON TO IDLE VAST BAD FPR NOW,  THEY DIE THIS OLD.

spark timed with timing freeze jumper planted:?

THE CAT MUST BE LIT OFF, THERE IS A TEST FOR THAT
USING ANY IR THERMAL GUN
MEASURE FRONT AND REAR CAT TEMPS AND THE DIFFERENCE  IS HUGE,

My old fixkick page 2007 is smarter than me now (grin) . ouch 72yo, now,
cat test page
Pyrometer or IR gun heat test,  just measure the temperature on both sides of the CAT and the output must be 100 deg F.More  that the input to the CAT. If equal or less, the CAT is bad.

cat bad or wrong cat, too big a cat or cat to far from HEADER flange.

there is and ASE chapter on PPM HC by displacement to a cat,   not sure what it is but a pro smog shop knows this.
the even measure it with 5 gas machine and a drilled probe hole, to the cat, front pipe.
but thermal tests are first not drill bits.

I do how this helps you. cheers
PS
the PPM HC is high on purpose (ECU BRAIN) to keep cat hot.
or before the 15mph rest race the engine fast, 2500 rpm neutral  ( if they let you then go into gear and do the 15 promptly) mind set hot hot hot CAT.
a new cat can eat a ton of HC but only HOT.

[sina27]

I tested vacuum at nipple at its steady at 22inHG so that seems good. New sensors and everything. 
The EGR MAP Baro sensor reads 8inHG at idle using OBD2 scan.This sensor shouldnt affect fuel trim, correct? 

Using the obd2 scan tool - 
Upstream sensor fluctuates between 0.1mv and 900 mv as it should. The downstream sensor however is stuck at 0.35mv at idle. It only starts approaching 0.5mv when im driving the car for a while. Is this normal? Both 02 sensors are new. 

Maybe the issue is the thornley header / custom exhaust. Maybe i should go back to stock. 

I also replaced the fuel injectors. fuel pressure is spec, i tested this at the rail.

[sina27]

Sorry - 

For my previous reply, I meant during idle my downstream 02 sensor stays low, around .035mv
its only during driving a while it starts ramping up

[fixkick]

I tested vacuum at nipple at its steady at 22inHG so that seems good. New sensors and everything. 
The EGR MAP Baro sensor reads 8inHG at idle using OBD2 scan.This sensor shouldnt affect fuel trim, correct? 

Using the obd2 scan tool - 
Upstream sensor fluctuates between 0.1mv and 900 mv as it should. The downstream sensor however is stuck at 0.35mv at idle. It only starts approaching 0.5mv when im driving the car for a while. Is this normal? Both 02 sensors are new. 

Maybe the issue is the thornley header / custom exhaust. Maybe i should go back to stock. 

I also replaced the fuel injectors. fuel pressure is spec, i tested this at the rail.

the headers are find as long as they do not put he car too far from the 4 exhaust ports.
the cat must light off and stay active hot idle and all smog speeds (roller?)
fuel pressure  must be 6 PSI difference, keyon-not start to  hot idle 800rpm ,  if not FPR is bad and is common  now.(this age)
stuck at 0.35mv at idle.
this  stuck is totally wrong, 
use only a scan tool that than can Live graph the o2 front sensor to see it swing fast 6 times a second (par) if not o2 is failing for 2 reasons

forget the down stream sensor 02, it is only used to test he P0420 the CAT is dead or too lazy test for get that, well  as long as P0420 are passing .

[fixkick]

use a real scan tool that can loop test the front o2.
do so as idle hot, and the 2 smog speeds.
the 02 swings fast , this is he ECU hunting perfect 14.7: ratio air fuel ratio, and is called closed loop fueling (computer controlled it is) and fast.
in fact the ECU even lets some unburned fuel to the CAT on purpose or the cat fails to stay lit off at idle.

closed loop happens at idle 800 hot engine , 180f or more.
and at any cruise speed, but never at WOT.
and never acceleration, only as steady right foot not wot. foot.


90ppm, and the max allowed is around 60. (not told how test was done IM240 on load roller and 2 speeds/) most are 2 speeds,did both speeds fail? did they check idle>
15mph tests fails (check ) but did the higher speed pass.????? I can not see your report.
that reading 90 means one 2 things
cat is dead or not lit off , or cat is too cold, best is fast idea car just before a test to get the cat roasting freakn HOT. keep it hot and test.
or means
engine is so filthy rich it overloads the cat actions.

not told age of the cat, ??? year old factory 3 way CAT? 26years old????????
you keep saying it runs rich with no poof.
proof like the OBD2 scan tools showing closed loop at idle and LTFT at say -5%, not dead LTFT.
I can drive 15mph stead and see CL hold,sure can with helper riding shot gun, and tools in hand.
you said smoke but white smoke is steam or burned oil
only black smoke is fuel and smells like poor burn gas


not told buy car used?
and if yes, this may have wrong cat there, super common that for folks living out of cities. Like where I live CEL can glow endless here. and nobody cares.
not a 3way cat or old and or bad.
or is for 2.5L engine CAT and not the small cat 1.6L for this car.
under car is the cat factory shields still there, the no grass fire shields. if not it is not factory CAT. < an fast way to tell. see any non stock cat,.


90ppm means.:

if that works and smog fails the cat is no good or too far from EXH port.s
a cat too far can not stay lit off, at idle.
the cat must be a 3way cat,, if not NOX fails. (next)
also know this magic trick
a new cat is so powerful it can in fact hide a nasty running engine.
but will cause the at to fail next year. the cat may even glow red hot for year and die and early death.
see???? how that works?????

all your tests look good but compression is touch odd.
spec is (sea-level only)

The 16v is 195 PSI. Seen in FSM chapter 6-6 (not 6A1) Facts.

mine does 185. x4