jerking

[gorkyb]

My 96 Tracker had similar jerking issues. Like you, it took me many tries to find out the problem, in my case was a bad contact on the distributor plug wires and a faulty distributor. I am not saying this is the problem with yours though and I sincerely hope is simpler than this. I then decided to buy NGK wires for it, I got them from Amazon since I could use my Amex points to make purchases, they cost me $47 with shipping included. This are the best $47 I ever spent on my Tracker, I spent near that amount before on wires and they started burning off real soon, these NGK's still look brand new after 6 months of almost every day use.

Just continue posting your tests and symptoms in the best organized way you can and fixkick will help you figure it out real soon. The tricky part is finding out whether the issue is electrical or fuel delivery.

[fixkick]

x2
finding the true path can be hard. very hard. but my add fuel trick does work. takes about 1hr.
see top hose here< left top, inline with Electronic?
that is EVAP
pull it at the plenum there.
http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/16v-engine93w.jpg
make sure the nipple sucks air running, ok good.
now connect a hose to that nipple, (just buy some vacuum line) say 12feet.
run to cab.
then off the propane cone,
connect hose to the propane, neck pipe.

here is the pro. setup by OTC company ,its overkill
http://www.fixkick.com/tools/Propane-tester1.jpg
all you need is any propane (small) torch. and off the nozzle cone,.

this works
http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/p...2/image/3/

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we do the same thing to test, the EFI system.
we add propane and watch fuel trim with the obd2 scan tool
or we add air. (rich for propane , lean for air)

if the engine bobbles. (hiccups)
and the lamps on car don't dim, and the CIG lighter port? drop>? (use a voltmeter here) dont drop.
then its spark or fuel.

here is a nice walfart tool that lets you watch the CIG power bus.
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Equus-Innova-3...r/15137663
the wipers run off igntion so of wipers die, at the hiccup , bingo. This is the best power feed to monitor. IGcoil-turn-back-wiper-wash , all run off black-white IGN feed.

keep in mind the injectors have their own DC feed, line FI, black- red. and that big connector front bottom of plenum can get bad , its all injectors there.

even try removing all keys from key ring and use just 1 key to off load the poor ignition switch, and its failings.....


the propane test can tell you ,
1: ECU is not losing DC power. if the power recovers with propane , the spark is good (2 facts), and injections are wrong. but the injectors have their own power feed bus.
2: if the propane does nothing ,it's spark. (or DC power to it) The Dizzy uses IGcoil power.

just knowing this allows us to work just that path. and a final cause.
if IG-coil feed drops, the gauges drop , too., one more clue,

Im very DC power centric due to all the many connectors on the car that love to rust. (corrode)

DC is here (all)

http://www.fixkick.com/power-elect/95%20...istra1.pdf


let me make a list. At hiccups?

radio don't drop, out, wipers keep going, head lights dont dim, the cluster gauges do not drop or glitch (they are so slow and glitching is masked, mostly)
monitoring the CIG port shows, no glitching.
front injector harness is not bad. here. see FI? NO DAMAGE THERE !!!
http://www.fixkick.com/engine/97-motor-p...282%29.jpg
propane corrects it.?
propane does not.?

Gorkys dissy conn, checks
and my table of grounds posted above are all good. clean and tight grounds.(the critical grounds) even a loose starter ground wire.... bad news.

i have a data-logging volt meter that allows me to drive and log and monitor anything i want. It find the hard cases.

[stickerbuoy]

I got a video while my muffler had a hole, so you can hear the engine while the tach jumps:

[fixkick]

dang that's ugly (1000 words one photo....)
but id not tempt fate, any engine that runs with empty gas tank, is a dream boat. engine. LOL
i see it s show hot. (shows normal on the gage)
WHY is it racing, the variance, i just chock up to the ISC (servo trying to drop idle to 800 and fails, resets, fails, resets. repeats)
id ignore that part.
so fix the crazy bad idle.
my first guess, is a huge vacuum leak.
Cause: and full symptoms.
that engines, hot. 180F, i presume, my hand instinctively touches top rad hose, ahh its at full temp. or IR gun shows ah,, 175f on stat housing and IAC base, all the IAC is hot took , now that is real good, so it can close, and not stay open i think to sell.
we can see if engine is in closed, loop now, so cant know if AFR, perfect, or way lean and Long term fuel trim is way off showing gross lean.
that is the #1 test for me on all EFI cars. what is AFR doeing. Fuel mix.....????? lean, normal, rich????
we dont know we are blind.
So blind id work that insane high idle.
First off this car runs with MAF sensor that measure air. flow into the engine. The ECU adds fuel bases mostly off this MAF. sensor.
That means there are 2 air leaks. unmetered air and metered.
ummetered air causes lean , metered not, but metered races. (unmetered air , causes slow rpm due to lean, if not in Failsafe mode)
Lets pick illegal metered air.
1: the TV stuck open or throttle cable stuck tight, both cause same effect the butterfly valve is not closing 100%
2: ISC stuck open , or the water line to it , or in it , fully packed in rust /scale, causes no flow , no heat. to it. it closes about 150F.
3: the TB air bleed was unscrewed, or is missing. See top black cap on TB body ? that is the air bleed, idle duty cycle setting device.



26 ways to mess up idle
http://www.fixkick.com/IDLE-AIR/16v-idle.html

what i do is close each metered air device 1 by one. a, b, c,d
to find the leak.
there are only 4 legal air sources, except d. d is closed at all time at idle. IS IT? LOOK at it.



(if the engine is running way rich, I dont know , no scan tool but if it is, all air leaks cause fast idle. ALL. (cracks, gaskets and seals)

for sure the illegal air is behind the TV , throttle valve. or in the TB.

see other posters photos here.
see this nasty mess?



this mess can block any throttle open (EGR clould hits PCV cloud and gunk happens)








see lots of photos here,
http://www.fixkick.com/IDLE-AIR/16v-idle.html


see this? see the rectangular port with red arrow pointing at it. you can block that with clay and prove, IAC good or bad, hot.

[fixkick]

see my TB slide show. 8v skip see all 16v photos
http://www.fixkick.com/fresh-air/Slide_S...age_2.html

btw2
some kicks, have 3 throttle cables.
A/T kick down
throttle , actual.
and cruise option.
all three, can jam or be set wrong, all 3 must be loose at idle. or FAIL it will.

this is 1st, open hood examine the 3 cables , first. all cars. and for sure motorcycles. (huge power to weight ratios)

---

nice video
and i bet the hunting ends with ISC, unplugged.?
i do that 2nd, , does rpm drop to like 400 rpm,,
yes, good
no, bad
the ISC should be the only air supply. (99%) the bleed is some too but can be screwed in as a 4th test
after blocking the IAC port.
1,2,3,4, simple tests. i block them 1 by one, and the TRUTH will win here, Rule 1 the engine can not run with NO AIR. (simple) and this gives you the power to find all leaks this fact


recap and tests.
1: cables
2: ISC unplugged.
3: actually force TV closed using EYES and HAND, is it?
4: IAC (block it by hand using clay)
5: still racing, omg, screw in the bleed, (oops cap missing, oops, screw missing? )
6: still racing, you have a huge VACUUM leak. find it. at this point in time, there is no AIR supply here., so why is it running?, (seen many cars do this) one had cracked manifold , other 4 leaking injector cushions, or vacuum hoses leaking (pinch all hoses to find those)

'

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http://www.fixkick.com/fresh-air/Slide_S...ge_22.html

[stickerbuoy]

So the video is actually with the car moving 80-90 km per hour. In other words, it's not idling. Car idles at about 800 rpm.

The "jerking" has gotten somewhat worse over time. It used to occur much more sporadically. Now it appears fairly consistenly, and has a frequency of multiple times per second, as you can see and hear in the video...

[fixkick]

dang the video blocks the SPEEDO. so?
wow.
only happens driving, ?
if yes, fixing driving problems with no scan tool is real hard work, i have run wires from test points to cab to do that. very tedious.... but 100% effective every time.

only one question , what ECU signal or fuel pressure is causing this. the ISC is not ACTIVE moving fast, so is not ISC, doing that.
if fuel pressure is good at 80km? not surging, bad PFreg.. ( i had a dash gauge for that....)
if pressure is good then, it's a bad input to the ECU.
but what one?
the scan tool would show this in 1min flat. bam, xxx is wrong..... gotta love OBD1, and hard problems.....
I'd get the Rhinotool. and see it.

the ECU has these inputs.
TPS idle, switch, (im sure its not stuck at 0v running fast, if yes, bam.)
TPS TP pin, if bouncing all over, this can cause that. all cars.... ecu thinks your foot (right) is bouncing and BELIVES THAT. it cant see you, or foot but just sees that as normal and is not.
O2 sensor, nah, but does the bounce happen ever while acceleration?
P/S overload switch, not stuck at ground. will raise idle but not foot in gas.
A/C active sets idle up 200, but not foot in gas. no. that that input.

ill post page
here is the daunting page of all pins. ecu.
there are 2 pages. see my red words, for INPUTS?
http://www.fixkick.com/specs/95ecu1w.jpg
pg2. fsm pages, not guessing...
http://www.fixkick.com/specs/95ecu2w.jpg

the throttle angle is, B7 , about 2v, steady cruise never bouncing with steady right foot.
the maf pin B8 will be 2 to 3 volts, not bouncing, at idle does tapping side of MAF cause RPM changes?, yes, it's BAD. (actual volts a function of load. hills ,speed,etc)

the scan tool would show
if the ECU holds closed loop at light steady cruise, flat ground, if not i fix that first.
and if AFR is way off. LONG TERM FUEL TRIM.
The ECU knows whats going on the scan tool tells you all that.
with out this tool, we are effectually blind, i have dataloggers that erase this blindness, (home made) and a logging DMM. too.
but if i had no such tools id own a rhinoscan tool
http://www.rhinopower.org/

the software is free, click software ,
we have one poster here using it. with nice photo;s

see cosmic
photo bucket
http://s957.photobucket.com/user/johnhov...1.png.html


does the Fpreg vacuum hose drip fuel ? when popped off?