Japanese 89

[fixkick]

the 89/90
has 1 not to fun issue.
THE TPS calibration is lost when you adjust IDLE duty cycle. (TV stop screw)
in 1991 suzuki added air bleed screw to the top air horn , curing that pain, forever. (latter cars, do auto calibration (1999+)

air leaks can be found many ways, (vacuum leaks)
1: examining hoses for cracks or fell off. (physical checks of all kinds) EGR gaskets missing or cracked, in fact all plenum things can leak.
The pinch test on most hoses (not all) will solve this, do not pinch map hose. (the brake hose vacuum must be removed and plugged, its huge and can not be pinched. do not drive like this.
2: leakdown testing all actuators on ends of all hoses,
3: the propane test.
4: the water test, spray a device you think leaks and the water blocks it, ive not had any luck with this ever. but water is safe and books love safe.
5: The smoke machine, one guy even used a cigar, to find the leak. ( course next day died of cancer, (dark humor watch out)
6: Dash pot must retract or engine will race for ever.
7: leaks inside the TV< the IAC is prime failure, here. as are other gaskets. Throttle valve and Idle Air controller (100% thermal) it must be closed at 150f and above.
The IAC can be tested, by blocking its ports hot. The IAC water hose must go to 180F if blocked it will not and engine races.
8: PCV hose cracked, omg common. (see it going from top of valve cover to intake manifold.
9: Idle switch not closed, the engine has no idle controls so anything possible, in fact more CARB like, in this failure mode.
10: the ISC can fail it self, it and its funky gaskets.
http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/sensor-ic...-ISC1a.jpg
11 the ECU idle up logic pins failing, there is one pin on ECU and 3 diodes that cause 3 inputs to race engine, (AC on, BLower on, and head lamps on) this pin must be at 0v.



as seen here
http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/tests/IAC...ml#89facts



now a more simple list
1: vacuum leaks of any kind. (can be hard work to find)
2: the ECU is doing this. (inputs to ECU WRONG) idle up, or in limphome mode.
3: the IAC is stuck open for any reason, even water flow to it weak or dead.

[MatiLaino]

well I took the TPS out to clean and check it 2 weeks ago. I made marks on the TB so I could put it back perfectly. You're right though I turned those screws so I would imagine it's out of calibration now.

I just got up into the dash and found that switch it's got a clip close to it and then it runs up into the gauge panel. There's no clip up on the panel so I just removed the switch from the lower clip. I got a code reading of 12 I got to look up what that means.
Unfortunately last night I was driving it to the other side of the island and as I was getting close to the bottom of the other side I noticed my RPMs we're declining. I took it out of 5th gear and it died so I coasted to a stop. I turned it over and it seemed like it was turning over okay but wouldn't start. So I towed it the rest of the way and I'm trying to find out what's wrong now solo. I'm worried about the timing belt so I'm going to look at it first. Hopefully it's good and then I need to see if there's spark.
Without it starting im still going to check out all you suggest -vacuum
Much mahalos for all your help so far! I want to get this little thing happy. Plus I got to have it runnin in 5 yrs to drive 2 hrs back adda side so I no miss my music gig. You're right that was a scavenger hunt for the switch. Bless Imma do all I can.

Best way to test for spark besides a timing light?

[MatiLaino]

Timing belt broke. I tried to start it four five times. Did I blow it? Did I likely make something worse?

[fixkick]

no , they only last 60k miles.
less with china clone junk belts. get GATES or DAYCO
12 code means okay,, but it only sees things dead. not weak) great the nag switch is gone, no more locked up CEL lamps.. ever.
there is no damage to actual engine, the belt snapped or shreaded as all do ignored.

the distributor rotor dies, dead the belt snapped. and all spark end, and CMP errors code 42 and no spark cause ecu to see that and cut all fuel. per normal.
if the belt slipped only, then spark can be good but retarded/, but compression falls to 1/2 normal or worse, and engine is hopeless to run.

glad its at home not lost in the woods.