High idle, probably broken IAC, questions

[jwunsch]

Hello,



Car Info:

- 1991 Vitara MT, 2 door, G16a, 4wd.

- 242000km / 150 000 miles

 - Plate in engine compartment.

  - TYPE: ETA01V

  - LAK625K17 (SWE, car has actually been sold in neighbor country FIN)

 - No AC




(Rear window defroster broken, cant test idle with that).

- Car runs fine, I think it has almost all horses still as it can get into 130-135 km/h (80-83 mph) on highway (yeah not fun to drive ).
- Fuel consumption is good for its age 29-30 MPG. Inspector said emissions are extremely good considering car's age.
- No CEL codes, no CEL light.

New stuff related to this and other stuff I guess:

O2 sensor, 190F stat, tb hoses, brake booster hoses and booster, radiator, radiator fan clutch, engine head gasket, water pump, camshaft belt, clutch and re-machined flywheel.




 Last summer we discussed about fixing high idle on another thread originally related to replacing blown brake booster. (Done).


( https://fixkick.com/forum/thread-vitara-...ent?page=2 )


After that I have done about every vacuum leak check and fix that can be done without pulling removing the TB. Due to COVID19 and restrictions car has been unused during winter. I have replaced all but 1 rubber hose that connects to the TB, its the short about 1" hose near engine. Could not change it with my fat fingers. So will change it when I remove TB, anyhow all hoses were still air tight after 30 years .



Anyhow situation is this.



DP definetlly works. After startup 3000-3500 rpm for 5-10 seconds and then it drops to 2000+ and starts going slowly down as engine heats up.

There is 1 idle hunting condition.

Just before engine is fully warmed up something goes strange.. it will start hunting idle 2000 -> 1000 -> 2000 -> 1000 .. this last about 30-90 seconds, then idle drops to 1300 and stays there.


If I block my radiator and allow water to reach somewhere around 95C (200F) (approximation from temp gun pointed at stat housing giving ~90C () ) idle is less than 1000rpm (which is the limit for emission testing here, idle 1000 or lower or fail not caring what the tail pipe gives out).

I assume that either some TB gasket leaks, but I am more worried that its the 30 year old IAC and the rubber thingy is giving up. 2 years ago "normal" idle was 1100, now its 1300. So slowly creeping up.

Whether the car is on normal running temp (190F stat) or overheated with rad blocked, there is absolutely no reaction to adding engine load by turning blower to full blast, high beams on, seat heaters on, or even applying a bit of load via clutch or power steering. RPM goes down, no regulation. ISC does not care or is hacked.

ISC does care in one situation and you guesstimated that some CARB guy has tampered with screws. If I apply a little throttle (around 2500rpm on neutral) it will start hunting and RPM's bounce like 2500 -> 2300 -> 2500 -> 2300 and it continues for ever until you let the throttle go.

(Tampering is quite probably, someone has tampered with electrics all around the car.. then removed some of them.. there are dead and live wires that are not connected to anything... so I assume the TB is also hacked/tampered).

As I will need to anyhow order some parts from rock-auto I will also order new ISC (mine is 30 years old, so if its not bad yet, it will soon be). 2 sets of all TB gaskets in case I need to open the TB twice during fixing this issue. Not sure if I should order throttle valve position sensor.

Hoping I only need to place one order as filling in all the customs documents are nasty and time consuming as about every item has bit different tariff... and our value added tax is 24% 

So now my plan is this.

I will try to return all the adjustment nuts and TB clearance to specs you have on this site and hopefully get normal idle.

I do suspect my IAC is leaking a bit which causes abnormally high idle and that is something I will not be fixing as it would require new TB and there are none

So if the IAC is shit:

1) Can I get hot idle fixed if I block the IAC port with clay or even epoxy from the TB. (Need permanent fix, not something that dissolves over time, hopefully clay would do.. easier to remove if needed).

2) Cold start needs to be hacked. Scraping windows here is a must every winter day so I would rather spend the warmup time scraping instead of manually pressing throttle.

I have 2 ideas for this.

1) Hack a jamming device on the throttle you can use during warmup. Like press a bit of throttle and then jam the pedal / cable there, release before driving / after heating up.

2) Do electronic hack to DP via Arduino or something.. like take control voltage from current DP control voltage and extend DP operating period to NN seconds, or just manual on/off switch.

Question for part 2: Do you have any idea if the DP survives prolonged periods of active usage or will it burn?

While writing this.. option 3 came into my mind.. route a cable from cabin to engine compartment and put up old type of choke cable to pull the throttle/DP handle while the car is cold. (Tho I think its quite the same as option 1)

I really don't care how it runs cold as long as it stays running until warmed up and will not run too high RPM while hacked for warmup. This is mostly hobby car or 2nd car so it's not so important that you can hit the road right after startup.

[fixkick]

Hello,



Car Info:

- 1991 Vitara MT, 2 door, G16a, 4wd.

- 242000km / 150 000 miles

 - Plate in engine compartment.

  - TYPE: ETA01V

  - LAK625K17 (SWE, car has actually been sold in neighbor country FIN)

 - No AC




(Rear window defroster broken, cant test idle with that).

- Car runs fine, I think it has almost all horses still as it can get into 130-135 km/h (80-83 mph) on highway (yeah not fun to drive ).
- Fuel consumption is good for its age 29-30 MPG. Inspector said emissions are extremely good considering car's age.
- No CEL codes, no CEL light.

New stuff related to this and other stuff I guess:

O2 sensor, 190F stat, tb hoses, brake booster hoses and booster, radiator, radiator fan clutch, engine head gasket, water pump, camshaft belt, clutch and re-machined flywheel.




 Last summer we discussed about fixing high idle on another thread originally related to replacing blown brake booster. (Done).


( https://fixkick.com/forum/thread-vitara-...ent?page=2 )


After that I have done about every vacuum leak check and fix that can be done without pulling removing the TB. Due to COVID19 and restrictions car has been unused during winter. I have replaced all but 1 rubber hose that connects to the TB, its the short about 1" hose near engine. Could not change it with my fat fingers. So will change it when I remove TB, anyhow all hoses were still air tight after 30 years .



Anyhow situation is this.

welcome back.

DP definetlly works. After startup 3000-3500 rpm for 5-10 seconds and then it drops to 2000+ and starts going slowly down as engine heats up.

There is 1 idle hunting condition.

Just before engine is fully warmed up something goes strange.. it will start hunting idle 2000 -> 1000 -> 2000 -> 1000 .. this last about 30-90 seconds, then idle drops to 1300 and stays there.  (that is easy to answer the ECU wants to control idle at the 150F water temperature transistion point)
that is how this works not fully hot , the ECU knows only 1 thing here, that is to wakup the ISC and control idle at 800 rpm. (digital fast idle inputs all false)
That causes our cars here in USA to do the same thing and hunt (an illegal act that, and cured today) but not in 1991.

that hunt is pure ECU/ISC actions !!! and means the ECU is CONFUSED. and is 100% vacuum leak caused, or IAC leaking.
IAC leaking is also a vacuum leak, on 8valve. as is all others combined (they add up)



If I block my radiator and allow water to reach somewhere around 95C (200F) (approximation from temp gun pointed at stat housing giving ~90C () ) idle is less than 1000rpm (which is the limit for emission testing here, idle 1000 or lower or fail not caring what the tail pipe gives out).

I assume that either some TB gasket leaks, but I am more worried that its the 30 year old IAC and the rubber thingy is giving up.  (what is the rubber?)
2 years ago "normal" idle was 1100, now its 1300. So slowly creeping up. (ECU can not closes a 100% closed ISC, that be impossible so RPM is 1300 from leaks vacuum)
ISC is electric, IAC is 100% thermal only and IAC works just like a thermostat only the IAC is air only  controls)


Whether the car is on normal running temp (190F stat) or overheated with rad blocked, there is absolutely no reaction to adding engine load by turning blower to full blast, high beams on, seat heaters on, or even applying a bit of load via clutch or power steering. RPM goes down, no regulation. ISC does not care or is hacked.
I think you meant rpm falls with loads added and ISC is offline, or simply overloaded, IAC, means it is closed and huge vacuum leaks are the cause.

ISC does care in one situation and you guesstimated that some CARB guy has tampered with screws.
If I apply a little throttle (around 2500rpm on neutral) it will start hunting and RPM's bounce like 2500 -> 2300 -> 2500 -> 2300 and it continues for ever until you let the throttle go.

If forgot to tell you the cars outside USA have more fast idle digital controls. there, like head lamps on ? and other things?

(Tampering is quite probably, someone has tampered with electrics all around the car.. then removed some of them.. there are dead and live wires that are not connected to anything... so I assume the TB is also hacked/tampered).  all these cars have extra plugs not used, for options new 30 years ago never opted day 1.
Id have to see photos in color of each to tell what each does.  wire color codes are useful.




As I will need to anyhow order some parts from rock-auto I will also order new ISC (mine is 30 years old, so if its not bad yet, it will soon be). 2 sets of all TB gaskets in case I need to open the TB twice during fixing this issue. Not sure if I should order throttle valve position sensor. (TPS)
all gaskets there can be cut by hand with an exacto knife and blank gasket material. sure can and is easy and far far faster to do, MAIL and no custom forms nor any VAT.



Hoping I only need to place one order as filling in all the customs documents are nasty and time consuming as about every item has bit different tariff... and our value added tax is 24% 

So now my plan is this.

I will try to return all the adjustment nuts and TB clearance to specs you have on this site and hopefully get normal idle.
show photos  using Imagine link above, (old gallery is now Image) post them there and link them to here.
post back side of your TB. AND FRONT BOTH.
I am in texas our IAC is not like some there, in Europe,  different TB? not same distributor at all, there.

I do suspect my IAC is leaking a bit which causes abnormally high idle and that is something I will not be fixing as it would require new TB and there are none
The IAC IS TESTED EASY IN PAN OF HOT WATER, IAC CLOSES AT 150f  MUST. i EVEN DOCUMENTED THE IAC GAP IN THE CONE/SEAT OF IAC.

So if the IAC is shit:

1) Can I get hot idle fixed if I block the IAC port with clay or even epoxy from the TB. (Need permanent fix, not something that dissolves over time, hopefully clay would do.. easier to remove if needed).
THE ISC IS EASY TO BLOCK, ZERO CLAY AT THE BASE GASKET, BOCK THE IAC AIR HOLE. but saidly kills the front TB air bleed path too.
one guy here , defeated the now dead stuck open IAC doing this.
he defeated it 100%
then added a dash board air valve and vacuum line from it to any intake vacuum ports, on the actual manifold
the set idle using the dash knob. for cold starts he open said valve, by hand, then when water hit 150 closed it and the ISC then takes over. (ends the hunt too)
the human IAC, if you will.


2) Cold start needs to be hacked.
Scraping windows here is a must every winter day so I would rather spend the warmup time scraping instead of manually pressing throttle.

I have 2 ideas for this.

1) Hack a jamming device on the throttle you can use during warmup. Like press a bit of throttle and then jam the pedal / cable there, release before driving / after heating up.

2) Do electronic hack to DP via Arduino or something.. like take control voltage from current DP control voltage and extend DP operating period to NN seconds, or just manual on/off switch.

Question for part 2: Do you have any idea if the DP survives prolonged periods of active usage or will it burn?
the DP is only spring and a diaphragm. it also sends huge air to the engine its only purpose is to burn off cold start huge puddle of liquid fuel pooling up below TB in the manifold plenum.

While writing this.. option 3 came into my mind.. route a cable from cabin to engine compartment and put up old type of choke cable to pull the throttle/DP handle while the car is cold. (Tho I think its quite the same as option 1)

I really don't care how it runs cold as long as it stays running until warmed up and will not run too high RPM while hacked for warmup. This is mostly hobby car or 2nd car so it's not so important that you can hit the road right after startup.

make dash vacuum port.

if the IAC is bad, and finding 30 year old used one  is impossible, a for sure reality there.
here is what I'd do. same boat.
find a spare VSV valve, 12v.

with it in open mode  connect it to intake port vacuum
see if fast idle works with just it open, if too fast use restriction orifice. on the fresh air side of VSV.


using a VSV allows you to use a 12vdc switch to it and VSV under hood not  in the dash

the key here is any VSV (even generic) find one that at least has air flow (vacuum leak) to get
DP timed out, IAC is now 100%blocked, with clay or at gasket, hole missing on bottom of TB (cut a custom gasket)
cold fast idle at say 1300 to 1500 rpm for fast warm up
the throw the switch off when happy windows are now defrosting.

if 1500 can not be attained get a larger VSV, (vacuum solenoid valve 12v)

if the idle is too fast simply make a fresh air side of VSV with restricted  orifice. (using drills and dill the port until 1500 cold is hit.)



parting shot.  if the engine still races too fast with IAC blocked you are barking up the wrong tree and for sure hot pan of water test to TB passes. bark bark wrong tree.

idle too fast. hot.
1: turn the air bleed fully CW clock wise front edge of TB large screw near center line of TB.
this ends bleed air.
2;fails still , make sure TV is closed, even turn the screw on the throttle stop CCW (counter clock wise) intil TV is closed 99.999%) or .001" max gap TV. to bore.
3: still fails to get 800rpm pinch all air hoses. (or plug them) do not plug the map, inspect all map hoses by eye. carefully no cracks allowed,

4: make sure all ECU fast idle pins are at false readings per ECU page pin voltage same.

tradition for fast idle inputs
head lamps on.
PS overload switch stuck active, or wires shorted to it.
wires to rear glass defroster (if ever on car from new ever, must not be active on the wire named that. fast idle up.)
heater blower turned on , fast idle active.

USA 91 does not have HL or blower fast idle ever, some do in Europe. (and some Santana's of Spain)


the cold engine is 100% IAC VACUUM FLOW, (air) + TB bleed screw. if there, is it?

[fixkick]

show and tell
our IAC is here.
fast idles pins on ECU false.(disabled, not active)
1991 actual mine. the gap here closes at about 150f.  for sure, must, close


do you have our bleed screw, CW max gently is zero vacuum leak at bleed and lowest RPM possible unless other things leak.
Is yours with this large bleed there?  there are 51 marketed cars sold world wide, I have never seen them all, no me. post your photos?


all comments are USA spec 8v 91 to 95. (EPA banned 8v in 1995 end.)


not TB holes all.  see that oval hole that is all TB IAC + bleed air flow.
see that top half there is gasket there too that loves to fail  get hard ,crack and suck in the gasket, and leak air like mad and fail.




TB rear.  THE brass TV plate must be fully closed, .001" gap max I set them to 0.0005" 1/2 a thousands of an inch if MOLESTED by carb guys(their excuse not mine)





here is my home made gasket took me 5min work.

rules of gasket.   the 5 tiny holes right of big bore must  be blocked by the gasket or fails hard. Seem more here. seen frame 36 too.!
if you cut a gasket with IAC hole on left blocked, this ends IAC forever and bleed adjuster too.
I also do this to prove OMG with blocked hole air idle hot is 2000 rpm still and so know know TV is not it if TV is closed per spec, .001" or less.
TV is brass, throttle valve, and must be fully closed, if not hacked, or TB has no bleed valve.



There are only 2 causes, macro
1: ECU fast idle , pins wrong set to enabled.
2: vacuum leaks vast.

The rule state is nature on earth abhors a vacuum always rings true. for sure this class engine. (like gaskets suck in, or wax pellet in IAC dead, hoses crack ,diaphragms crack.)
on 30 year old car expect 2 failures not just  one. I would.

good luck.!!!!!

[fixkick]

hot idle fails. or cold way too low,or stalls. IAC can fail mostly for stuck open but can also stick closed,(rare)
pinching hoses vac. to find air leaks.(vac leaks)
unplug ISC wires, (tricky before 1991) on hot engine stalls said engine.
screw in the bleed CW(see if rpm changes )
unscrew the throttle stop screw, or use a feeler gauge on the TV to TB bore juncture, 0.0005" 0.0127 Millimeters .is PAR.1991+
all vsv not stuck open.
EGR base gasket not missing or cracked, EGR casing not cracked, rare but seen it .
all diaphragm's not leaking air(cracked inside)
all intake gaskets good, TB and manifold
if all normal air paths are blocked engine stalls and can not run or idle ever. can only run if right foot planted throttle pedal. like this. cam not idle lacking air.
that IAC in hot pan of water, blow in the IAC air hole to see that it is closed, but make sure bleed is closed first and mid TB gasket not missing or cracked at the inside bleed port .

[fixkick]

last, see TB mid, see arrow to bleed, that gasket material at that point must not be cracked or missing. ever. or you get a massive air leak. there/ USA spec, parts. here.
that curved slot must be there, or a hole there, so the EGR and EVAP ports , on TB main are not DEAD.

[jwunsch]

(that is easy to answer the ECU wants to control idle at the 150F water temperature transistion point)
that is how this works not fully hot , the ECU knows only 1 thing here, that is to wakup the ISC and control idle at 800 rpm. (digital fast idle inputs all false)
That causes our cars here in USA to do the same thing and hunt (an illegal act that, and cured today) but not in 1991.

that hunt is pure ECU/ISC actions !!! and means the ECU is CONFUSED. and is 100% vacuum leak caused, or IAC leaking.
IAC leaking is also a vacuum leak, on 8valve. as is all others combined (they add up)


Good to know. I am software developer by profession and this kind of felt like a problem that the ECU does not know if should go by IAC or ISC and constantly transitions from one to another until water is hot enough to stay just on ISC. So its buggy, it should not transition constantly.

I was not worried about it as it does not affect much.. if I start driving when its doing that all is fine when a slight amount of throttle is applied. (So I guess ISC correclty turns off).

(what is the rubber?)

The black thingy in IAC that is supposed to be completely shut at 150F.

I think you meant rpm falls with loads added and ISC is offline, or simply overloaded, IAC, means it is closed and huge vacuum leaks are the cause

Yes you are correct. I tested this when I yet did not have high idle and there was no correction from ISC when I put more load via electronics, ie it went down from 800 to 600-550 RPM when long beams + blower at full blast + seat warmers on for both seats. Could be of course overloaded as there definitely is slowly growing vacuum leak somewhere.

inspect all map hoses by eye

Forgot to mention that I replaced all the MAP hoses while I replaced all but 1 hoses connected to TB, IAC, ISC etc. Not sure if original hoses were same diameter as the TB, IAC, ISC, but mine were so I changed those too. As its MAP and not MAF sensor I dont think it really cares what size the hose is as long as it does not collapse and is air tight.

THE ISC IS EASY TO BLOCK, ZERO CLAY AT THE BASE GASKET, BOCK THE IAC AIR HOLE. but saidly kills the front TB air bleed path too.
one guy here , defeated the now dead stuck open IAC doing this.
he defeated it 100%
then added a dash board air valve and vacuum line from it to any intake vacuum ports, on the actual manifold
the set idle using the dash knob. for cold starts he open said valve, by hand, then when water hit 150 closed it and the ISC then takes over. (ends the hunt too)
the human IAC, if you will.

This sounds great easy and cheap fix as there are no spares or if you find one it costs horribly much. I am used to old CARB thingies so having a manual valve (or choke knob) is not a problem for me (or my wife). I like this car as its pretty simple. My everyday driver is a non-plugin hybrid auris and its like if there is a problem, don't touch anywhere.. 

the cold engine is 100% IAC VACUUM FLOW, (air) + TB bleed screw. if there, is it?

I Will check this next time I go near the car. I am keeping it at my parents place as its safer (some meth-head broke into it 2 times in 1 month last autumn, but luckily did not get it running).

I will actually add a remote controlled swithc there where disconnected is default / power off setting to the fuel pump ground and steal operating power from back lights. So will need to put lights on, use remote to give power to FP and then start. Bit harder to steal if the ignition lock breaks on next attempt. I cant understand why ugly dinged, polka dotted and odd colored old Vitara is so interesting to those bastards.

Luckily insurance covered everything and I have now new seat, new steering wheel and new multi-switch-thingy that controls wipers + lights (actually drizzle/mist setting was dead with the old switch)



I will anyhow buy the gaskets from rock-auto as its just few $. I need new brake brackets and pins and that is the only place I can figure out that actually has those. So customs foolery and VAT is something I cant dodge here. Disks and pads and even the calibers are available here, but brackets and pins are not . Left front wheel makes horrible clanking sound in every pot hole as the bracket and pins are bust.

So I was thinking to order those and new ISC at the same time to get all this sorted out. As its old car I am afraid that when my ISC goes (if not yet dead) there's none available anywhere when I need it. Spare parts are nastily hard to find here in EU.. and especially in Finland. I think our salted winter roads have killed all gen1 Vitaras. And as suzuki is not very popular here, demand for parts is almost 0.

So I will start ordering parts, it will be finger numbing cold here for next 2-4 weeks, so its good time to wait for new spare parts. When its bit warmer I will de-pressurize the fuel lines and pull the whole TB with all aux thingies out, clean everything and do the hot water test for IAC.

I will also at that point take pictures and publish them here so its easier for you to share your knowledge.  Thanks.

[jwunsch]

I finally got my brake calibers with all assembly parts and went to start the engine first time since autumn. (Yup runs fine, no problem there).

Also got all the gaskets and ISC for the TB and was looking for the idle air screw.

Now I think I have made a mistake identifying the TB/injector and it seems that 91 Vitara with SWE country code actually has the same TB thingy as 89/90 Sidekick.


Can you confirm this from my picture.

   

.

   

And if that is the case can I fix hot idle by adjusting the never touch screw or should I still block IAC and use a T shaped connector and run a vacuum hose to cabin and put a moped's fuel valve there as manual choke?


Anyhow I will now replace all the gaskets and few hoses that I could not last time replace.

[fixkick]

I finally got my brake calibers with all assembly parts and went to start the engine first time since autumn. (Yup runs fine, no problem there).

Also got all the gaskets and ISC for the TB and was looking for the idle air screw.

Now I think I have made a mistake identifying the TB/injector and it seems that 91 Vitara with SWE country code actually has the same TB thingy as 89/90 Sidekick.


Can you confirm this from my picture.



And if that is the case can I fix hot idle by adjusting the never touch screw or should I still block IAC and use a T shaped connector and run a vacuum hose to cabin and put a moped's fuel valve there as manual choke?


Anyhow I will now replace all the gaskets and few hoses that I could not last time replace.

In USA parlance (sold new there) that is 89/90 TB for sure. see hard wires to ISC is 89. gen1 engine.
that blue tag on wire wall screams NONE USA>!!! but can be seen in CANADA before they banned imports of none canada market only cars there. over 50 market there are....
use is e03 and e33, fed and calif. USA>

and that same tag if show here I tell you what country code is it.  for sure,

the only very serious problem mixing ECU and wrong TB is 89/90 isc  uses 2 times the normal ISC current  than 91+ USA.
this can damage the ECU, (but not backwards.) serious as in SMOKED transistor ISC in ECU.

ahhhj forgot me, SWE is Sweden country. code E17 is SWE. for sure.
i have the list here.

https://fixkick.com/specs/the-market-list1.html

try to know engines in all 50 countries have changes made and different times.
use 8valve banned in 1996 (july1last one 1995 mfg)
in other countries up to 2004 made.  long runs of 8v.

different ECu

and different distributors, suzuki parts list show them as type, 1,2,3, or more engines. just 8v. vast variances exits.


yes on the 89/90 there is no air bleed screw, I see it missing there.
so only the TV stop screw is idle speed duty cycle calibration on this TB.

if engine is hot 180f.+
and idle not 800rpm (and fast idle pins on ECU are false (logically)
then unscrew this TV stop CCW,counter clock wise (closes TV), to lower idle until the ISC wakes up and take over the job of 800 rpm regulation.

if TV hits stops and idle is still too high there is a leak
so block IAC valve using sold gasket to see if it leaks as most do this old.
for sure vast places for air to leak(vacuum)

thanks for sharing, love old kicks I do. fun car, and easy to fix, only one brain i car to make happy ecu,
unlike my wifes 12 brain car. ouch;

[jwunsch]

Thanks for confirming it.

I do suspect vacuum leak as the hot idle has been slowly creeping up. If I block radiator and let it heat so that IR heat-gun gives about 95C (203F) at stat housing I get idle bit below 1000rpm. Last year it achieved below 1000rpm at about 90C. So I will pull it apart and buy some gasket paper to make gaskets my self. At the same time clean everything from the TB etc.


Sadly now I have ISC and all gaskets for the newer TB and I already paid VAT and customs toll so wont bother returning it anymore. Probably not much market here for it, but cant help it. Oh well they weren't so expensive small loss compared to my stock market failings


I will probably depressurize the fuel line this weekend, have to see if I have enough time to pull the whole TB. Anyhow next weekend or something. I will take pictures and share them, maybe they help someone.


This particular vehicle is strange frankenstein piece of work. I have ordered with correct part numbers radiator (did not fit), brake booster (fit after hammering 1" dent to wheel well) etc. Luckily the parts dealer swapped the rad to another one and that did fit.

I am not sure if its because tag says its SWE car, but its has originally been sold by Suzuki dealer in Finland (neighboring country). Also could be that someone has scavenged parts from here and there and fixed it like this.

It has been owned by some safari company and they have made all kinds of self-made-patent-fixes all around the car.

And previous owner had made really shitty welding job and horrible electronics for additional front lights. I pulled all that crappy wire work away and did it properly this time. At least my wires are now water proof

[fixkick]

Thanks for confirming it.

I do suspect vacuum leak as the hot idle has been slowly creeping up. If I block radiator and let it heat so that IR heat-gun gives about 95C (203F) at stat housing I get idle bit below 1000rpm. Last year it achieved below 1000rpm at about 90C. So I will pull it apart and buy some gasket paper to make gaskets my self. At the same time clean everything from the TB etc.


Sadly now I have ISC and all gaskets for the newer TB and I already paid VAT and customs toll so wont bother returning it anymore. Probably not much market here for it, but cant help it. Oh well they weren't so expensive small loss compared to my stock market failings


I will probably depressurize the fuel line this weekend, have to see if I have enough time to pull the whole TB. Anyhow next weekend or something. I will take pictures and share them, maybe they help someone.


This particular vehicle is strange frankenstein piece of work. I have ordered with correct part numbers radiator (did not fit), brake booster (fit after hammering 1" dent to wheel well) etc. Luckily the parts dealer swapped the rad to another one and that did fit.

I am not sure if its because tag says its SWE car, but its has originally been sold by Suzuki dealer in Finland (neighboring country). Also could be that someone has scavenged parts from here and there and fixed it like this.

It has been owned by some safari company and they have made all kinds of self-made-patent-fixes all around the car.

And previous owner had made really shitty welding job and horrible electronics for additional front lights. I pulled all that crappy wire work away and did it properly this time. At least my wires are now water proof

any air leak (vac) will cause too high idle on the 8v (the map cause this, sensed vacuum change)
if all hoses do not leak and things on the end of them.
 and not the head to intake manifold leaking gasket
the it  must be  the TB,there is nothing left to leak. (assuming the above no leaks)
this TB has only 3 paths for idle air, 4  cause
ISC , IAC and TV.
1,2,3, one must be leaking. to solve this riddle, one only needs to do 2 things or 3.
1- unscrew the stop screw at TV so TV is 100% closed, (not normal this just  a test)
2: Dash pot retracted see that air gap at the DP end rod, that means it is not affecting idle. (as in pushing TV open)
3: then block the ISC gasket, just cardboard, from cereal box cut to fit and the  ISC is now 100% dead and no way to leak possible

that leaves IAC,  the tests for IAC are many some more hard.

pan of hot water test,. must closed 100% above 150f temp.
the look at the valve under plate 3 screws, make sure cone valve is 100% closed in hot pan of water
and last one can make fake or wrong TB base gasket even using a cereal box  cardboard, to block the IAC air hole in the bottom of TB , if this cures fast idle , BINGO
do know that when successful, the engine can not start up with zero air. no air no start; a big bingo that and can be cured  this moment with 5% foot throttle.

in all cases the ECU idle up pins must be false
our 89 has 1 pin for that. (and diode "OR" gate block to add on lots more idles  up, head lamps, blower, defrost rear glass. and PS overload and AC active. wow. )
newer ECU have 3 pins, or more.  all must be logically false,  or 1000 RPM is normal. but regulates, not wild.
if these pins are true (logic) ISC leaks air and causes that and is normal,  the ISC works on hot engine, and for 2 speed, normal and idle up mode.

I do hope you find the true cause,!!!

to find cause of this i block paths (sequentially additive) until found the leak.
this is not new, same year Toyota's all do this (work same way) same parts, in 90s'  

cheers to you sir ! and good day.