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12-28-2014, 11:25 AM
well here we go. Did a transplant from a 1997 chevy tracker 1.6 16v into my 88 samurai (3 years ago). swapped harness and ran great. last year decided to send in wire harness to get shorted and modified sent computer along with. while that was sent out changed timing belt and found distributor housing was broke (GREAT!  ) so ordered used one from local junk yard. so i set timing according to fixkick. got wire harness back and she wont start. rechecked timing over and over and over (no i did not buy cheap china garbage everything is name brand). everything checks out. TPS sensor is reading, MAP sensor says 96? MAF says 0.04v, 45 lbs fuel pressure (yes its a good gauge OTC spent $$$ for it) did leak down tests holds pressure. has spark, has fuel pressure, node light on injectors those all check out good. plugs are saturated in fuel! getting WAYY to much fuel can smell it out exhaust. hooked up my snap on solus scanner said p0118 ECT sensor. Replaced it good to go cleared DTCs. still same problem! wont even try to fire once in awhile if you crank it long enough it'll pop off one cylinder. only thing i did get confused on is when i got my harness back the injector harness was so short it was unreal. so maybe the connectors are mixed up? anyone know the color of the wires to what injectors are supposed to be at? i am completely stumped on this. someone please help a fellow out. need this little beast running makes a good log skidder for firewood lol.
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12-28-2014, 12:34 PM
(This post was last modified: 12-28-2014, 12:43 PM by fixkick.)
fun project, !!! welcome.!
Quote:well here we go. Did a transplant from a 1997 chevy tracker 1.6 16v into my 88 samurai (3 years ago). swapped harness and ran great. last year decided to send in wire harness to get shorted and modified sent computer along with. while that was sent out changed timing belt and found distributor housing was broke (GREAT!) so ordered used one from local junk yard. so i set timing according to fixkick. got wire harness back and she wont start. rechecked timing over and over and over (no i did not buy cheap china garbage everything is name brand). everything checks out. TPS sensor is reading, MAP sensor says 96?
MAF says 0.04v, [/color]45 lbs fuel pressure (yes its a good gauge OTC spent $$$ for it)
maf keyon is not 0.0v , must not be ,no start is 1.0
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[quote='fixkick' pid='3322' dateline='1419734057']
fun project, !!! welcome.!
well here we go. Did a transplant from a 1997 chevy tracker 1.6 16v into my 88 samurai (3 years ago). swapped harness and ran great. last year decided to send in wire harness to get shorted and modified sent computer along with. while that was sent out changed timing belt and found distributor housing was broke (GREAT! ) so ordered used one from local junk yard. so i set timing according to fixkick. got wire harness back and she wont start. rechecked timing over and over and over (no i did not buy cheap china garbage everything is name brand). everything checks out. TPS sensor is reading, MAP sensor says 96?
MAF says 0.04v, 45 lbs fuel pressure (yes its a good gauge OTC spent $$$ for it)
maf keyon is not 0.0v , must not be ,no start is 1.0
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12-28-2014, 12:47 PM
(This post was last modified: 12-28-2014, 12:53 PM by fixkick.)
ECT is not connected, connect it and reset obd2 codes, see if it comes back, the ECT MUST WORK, OR ALL BETS OFF.
So cam timing. Crank 12pm and cam 12 pm on E? Correct?
Mostly, that is correct, if keys are not sheared x2.
NO, the dizzy is timed with E at 6pm, not 12pm (E @12 pm is #4 firing, not 1)
Then drop in distributor pointing at tower1? Or do I rotate the engine until #1 is firing then drop in dizzy?
always drop dizzy #1 firing only never 4.
it will run
drop dizzy with #1 valves are lose with timing mark at 0 deg.
if #4 is loose and not 1 then turn crank 360 degrees CW
or use the cam cog to time it.
or the cylinder compression why. #1 has compression raise as you reach TDC.
ALL 12 WAYS HERE
http://www.fixkick.com/t-belt/TDC/TDC.html
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(12-28-2014, 12:47 PM)fixkick Wrote: ECT is not connected, connect it and reset obd2 codes, see if it comes back, the ECT MUST WORK, OR ALL BETS OFF.
So cam timing. Crank 12pm and cam 12 pm on E? Correct?
Mostly, that is correct, if keys are not sheared x2.
NO, the dizzy is timed with E at 6pm, not 12pm (E @12 pm is #4 firing, not 1)
Then drop in distributor pointing at tower1? Or do I rotate the engine until #1 is firing then drop in dizzy?
always drop dizzy #1 firing only never 4.
it will run
That's what I have it set as. 6pm set at #1. Still have no start. ETC is connected and is reading. According to scanner. No other codes present. Do you have the injector wire harness color code to injectors? I have a feeling they messed up the injector harness and is dumping fuel in to cylinder after firing?
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12-28-2014, 12:57 PM
(This post was last modified: 12-28-2014, 01:08 PM by fixkick.)
COMPRESSION AT SPEC:
TIMING LIGHT FLASHES TO MARK 0 TDC ,CRANKED
PULL fuel pump relay and burn off that flood, ECT bad is flood city. (ok you fixed ECt)
now try test fuel, it will run for 3 seconds each time or the above is bad.l
fueling is last., always.
UN PLUG THE PUMP RELAY, THIS KILLS THE INJECTORS. AND NOW YOU CAN USE TEST FUEL;.
the injectors gang fire.
the 1997 ecu is new design with added Tcm SO ALL PINS WERE CHANGED.
BUT IF LUCK WIRES MAY BE SAMECOLOR.
1996 ONLY.
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/1996/EFI3.jpg
Why not my test fuel tests. this ends all the drama, (eg, wow it runs perfect or not? test fuel requires no injectors at all , or fuel in gas tank.
you can do test fuel with injectors unplugged.
if you do that, we can go the right directions to true cause.
non only that, but there might be 2 or 3 more problems.
if the sparks are wet
and wot CRANKING DOES NOT CLEAR THE FLOOD.! (WOT CUTS FUEL)
THE COMPRESSION IS DEAD, OR SPARK TIMED WRONG (SEAMS ITS NOT)
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(12-28-2014, 12:57 PM)fixkick Wrote: COMPRESSION AT SPEC:
TIMING LIGHT FLASHES TO MARK 0 TDC ,CRANKED
PULL fuel pump relay and burn off that flood, ECT bad is flood city. (ok you fixed ECt)
now try test fuel, it will run for 3 seconds each time or the above is bad.l
fueling is last., always.
UN PLUG THE PUMP RELAY, THIS KILLS THE INJECTORS. AND NOW YOU CAN USE TEST FUEL;.
the injectors gang fire.
the 1997 ecu is new design with added Tcm SO ALL PINS WERE CHANGED.
BUT IF LUCK WIRES MAY BE SAMECOLOR.
1996 ONLY.
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/1996/EFI3.jpg
Why not my test fuel tests. this ends all the drama, (eg, wow it runs perfect or not? test fuel requires no injectors at all , or fuel in gas tank.
you can do test fuel with injectors unplugged.
if you do that, we can go the right directions to true cause.
non only that, but there might be 2 or 3 more problems.
if the sparks are wet
and wot CRANKING DOES NOT CLEAR THE FLOOD.! (WOT CUTS FUEL)
THE COMPRESSION IS DEAD, OR SPARK TIMED WRONG (SEAMS ITS NOT)
Compression is between 160-170 on all cylinders WOT.
I will do your fuel tests in the morning. Thanks for all your help! I really appreciate it. Ill keep you posted. (Obviously because I can't figure it out Lol)
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12-28-2014, 11:43 PM
(This post was last modified: 12-28-2014, 11:47 PM by fixkick.)
Good morning !!
great 1 down 2 to go
spark , makes sure spark fires on all 4 cyl.
timing light to #1 wire HV lead (front)see it flash fire at 0 mark? or near hood sticker spec.
then move light to #3 it now flashes at 6pm on pulley , no marks, there but lands there. (180deg)
then move light to #4 it now flashes at 0 on pulley , same 0 marks as #1 firing.
then move light to #2 it now flashes at 6pm on pulley , no marks there but lands there.
it must start, or at the worst case starts with 5-10% foot throttle, (im assuming IAC is dead here or huge injector leaks,etc )
if you now have spark, correct we now play fuel and air.
you are very welcome. !!!
other points, that can effect this.
1: cat melted (if there is one) nah.
2; iac STUCK CLOSED cold and is cold.now. , ISC DEAD.
3: EGR main STUCK OPEN
THE MAP Reading you gave was wrong, (that number) .
4: gross injector leaking, but pulling fuel pump relay and starting on test fuel proves this easy.
5: BAD FUEL, SEE #4 PROOF, AGAIN.
STARTing with no fuel, (first none if flooded, then test fuel) has great values for cause off flooding or loss of fueling .
it puts you at the right point , in diagnosis, so you save time and wasted parts $$$
good luck to you, and your new SAMMI
keep in mind flooding shorts spark plug tips , wet gas conducts electricity, well. making no spark or too weak.
KEEP BATTERY CHARGED,
or cranking long will lower spark energy.
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(12-28-2014, 11:43 PM)fixkick Wrote: Good morning !!
great 1 down 2 to go
spark , makes sure spark fires on all 4 cyl.
timing light to #1 wire HV lead (front)see it flash fire at 0 mark? or near hood sticker spec.
then move light to #3 it now flashes at 6pm on pulley , no marks, there but lands there. (180deg)
then move light to #4 it now flashes at 0 on pulley , same 0 marks as #1 firing.
then move light to #2 it now flashes at 6pm on pulley , no marks there but lands there.
it must start, or at the worst case starts with 5-10% foot throttle, (im assuming IAC is dead here or huge injector leaks,etc )
if you now have spark, correct we now play fuel and air.
you are very welcome. !!!
other points, that can effect this.
1: cat melted (if there is one) nah.
2; iac STUCK CLOSED cold and is cold.now. , ISC DEAD.
3: EGR main STUCK OPEN
THE MAP Reading you gave was wrong, (that number) .
4: gross injector leaking, but pulling fuel pump relay and starting on test fuel proves this easy.
5: BAD FUEL, SEE #4 PROOF, AGAIN.
STARTing with no fuel, (first none if flooded, then test fuel) has great values for cause off flooding or loss of fueling .
it puts you at the right point , in diagnosis, so you save time and wasted parts $$$
good luck to you, and your new SAMMI
keep in mind flooding shorts spark plug tips , wet gas conducts electricity, well. making no spark or too weak.
KEEP BATTERY CHARGED,
or cranking long will lower spark energy.
What is the correct amount to see on MAP sensor?
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12-29-2014, 01:34 AM
(This post was last modified: 12-29-2014, 01:42 AM by fixkick.)
it has no map, er...... that map there, is EGR map (only), this engine is an air flow engine MAF.100% NOT AIR pressure.
THE TBI Converts pressure map to flows (air)
the MPI measure flow directly, AIR maf) mass air flow)
the test fuel tests, solves all this guessing.
please test the engine with the fuel pump relay pulled. using test fuel (can of fuel spray)
like the old saying "first we must walk before we can run"(no pun), rings true here. sorry for adage.
in 1996, the only have G16b engines, now. gone for ever, and illegal are the TBI with map. 1996+
this engine , Air Density system, (not speed density)
MAF BASED, that is why i asked why the maf reads zero, and in the same vain, why the ecu dont set DTC for dead maf.?
my guess is the reading was taken wrong. (proble's not really touching pins)
THE MAF IS NOTE NEEDED AT ALL TO DO TEST FUEL TEST, and 100x that the EGR MAP.
NOR INJECTORS PLUGGED in.
NOR FUEL PUMP ALIVE.
NOR FUEL IN THE GAS TANK (can be bad too,so........ that is why test fuel tests are so powerful)
please do the test fuel tests so we can check off #1 and #2
1: engine good
2: spark good
so we can begin #3.
no engine EFI can ran dead engines, or spark. so.... we do this in order. (fueling is dead last)
i will answer now (no need) the egr map , so i can say did it..
the book calls this the MDP
off my EGR page for gen 3, G16Bs
http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/EGR/EGR-map-test.html
map, baro sensor, and mDP are same names.
the MDP is not used until the EGR MONITOR test activates, MOVING FAST. (EGR test 1 and 2)
it's only used like for 1 second, every (trip) IF FAILS You P0400, egr bad.
FYI:
http://www.fixkick.com
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