1990 tracker not starting

[Markwalser33]

I've read about everything I can pertaining to my problem. Was running fine then on way to work a couple of weeks ago she cut off on me on the road. I had it towed back to the house. I figured fuel pump. But fuel pump is fine good pressure. So I jumped the gun and shelled out big bucks for an injecter 8 valve throttle body. No luck. I let it sit for about a week and low and behold it started up fine. Drove for 2 days then did the same thing. Checked injecter ohmed out fine but no spray. Checked plug to injecter with noid light did not light up or pulse. Pulled computer opened her up capacitors are fine circuit board is fine. Spark is good. Just wanting some input on which way to go next. Could it be throttle position sensor stopping the computer from sending signal? Or possibly noise suppresser. I went out today and it cranked again but had to pat gas for about 5 minutes Then idled at 3000 to five thousand rpms in park or neutral put in gear would idle at 1000 to 1500 rpms. Drove it around parked it and in park idled at 3000 rpms. Cut it off and back to the same ol same not cranking. No codes on cel only flashes 12. Any help would be appreciated. 
Thanks
Mark walser.

[Markwalser33]

Please help?

[fixkick]

I've read about everything I can pertaining to my problem. Was running fine then on way to work a couple of weeks ago she cut off on me on the road. I had it towed back to the house. I figured fuel pump. But fuel pump is fine good pressure. So I jumped the gun and shelled out big bucks for an injecter 8 valve throttle body. No luck. I let it sit for about a week and low and behold it started up fine. Drove for 2 days then did the same thing. Checked injecter ohmed out fine but no spray. Checked plug to injecter with noid light did not light up or pulse. Pulled computer opened her up capacitors are fine circuit board is fine. Spark is good. Just wanting some input on which way to go next. Could it be throttle position sensor stopping the computer from sending signal? Or possibly noise suppresser. I went out today and it cranked again but had to pat gas for about 5 minutes Then idled at 3000 to five thousand rpms in park or neutral put in gear would idle at 1000 to 1500 rpms. Drove it around parked it and in park idled at 3000 rpms. Cut it off and back to the same ol same not cranking. No codes on cel only flashes 12. Any help would be appreciated. 
Thanks
Mark walser.

not cranking, Im sure you meant cranks great but will not start. (cranking failure is a whole other problem , totally)

first off, , if the ECU sees spark dead via  the suppressor path it cuts fuel by law, and to not start a huge fire. (fire safety , all EFI cars do that)

so when it will not inject check spark at all 4 cylinders and even 4 spark plug tips not carbon fouled, or oil or antifreeze fouled.
if spark timing is way off cam belt failure.
if the TPS ground wire is cut the that puts throttle angle at WOT 4 to 5vdc, and ecu sees that as WOT as driver requested cranking and unflood mode and cuts fuel.

if spark was good then why not use test fuel,  if engine is ok and spark is good all gas engine run on test fuel (can of starting fluid spray) all do and is super easy tests.  if that works check TPS voltage on center angle pin. for 1vdc cranked, not 4, not 5v, but 1v,  if at 1volt the TPS is working, 1vdc is idle angle voltage.

is the front crank pulley bolt 17mm hex head at 94ft/lbs and not loose as a goose.
is the cam belt not shredded or slipping and jumping about.?????

but fuel cuts only for 3 reasons.
1: spark dead
2: or CMP dead. causes spark dead or code 41, or 42 error, 5 seconds cranked jumper in place. DLC,
3: WOT, TPS  sending 4v or more as throttle angel.  

sure bad ECU too but needs proofs simple.

Try test fuel.  any engine with good spark this simple tests proves,  spark and engine are good.

[Markwalser33]

Yes engine will run on test fuel. Timing belt is good. Crank pulley bolt is not loose it is to spec.

[fixkick]

Yes engine will run on test fuel. Timing belt is good. Crank pulley bolt is not loose it is to spec.

well , if will not run on test fuel.

1; compression test normal cold at 150PSI times 4.  (tested throttle open 1/2 to full, so has air)
2: spark is bad. (that includes spark plug tips shorted, or wet with fuel already or worse, no limits on bad spark tips, ever only looking at them works)

3: cat melted fully blocking exhaust fully. but sometimes you say it runs so is not that, as a melted cat never unmelts and unblocks.(on its own)

to run on test fuel,  engine OTTO CYCLE , rules.
A: engine must pump air. throttle does open and cat not melted, 400cc of air per cylinder and is an air pump.   and compression good.
a slipped timing belt can drop compression from 150 to 50 PSI,  DOOMED.  this is. and very common, on this engine, (poor service)
B: spark , strong and timed correctly x4; a timing light even works on a dead engine, sure does.


compression on this 8valve is 170psi hot, or 150cold, at sea level and throttle blocked open some 1/2  or more, and spark plugs out, battery fully charged.
that is a bench mark.   (and real)
also know that the Distrib on this car makes all spark, the ECU DOES NOTHING in the creation of spark the ECU is fuel only ECM.
The ECU can NOT advance spark either until 1991 year.
knowing that one fact and that the ignitor here loves to fail.  spark can come and go at any time,  and is very common on 89/90 TRACK/Kicks.



here the thing is....
never trust it, and fully test it, and repeat all spark tests, to be 100% sure  it is good to all 4 cylinders. and timing,
not only that but the fly weight mech. advance can rust and stick wide open(advanced huge) ,wrecking spark timing. as can that vacuum mess. there.

#6 love to fail worse GO INTERMITTENT and the gap on 5 set by humans.\\ Adjust the gap to .008-.016 inches.


there is no computers here, zero.  it is a relic of the past. long long gone this technology.

the china distrib, cap rotors on 91 up,  (not sure 90) can be put on 3 ways, and that is dead wrong it allowing that and a pain nobody needs, ever, just one more fly in the ointment of spark.

my 90 page is here, on spark dizzy.
the firing order is, 1,3,4,2 and CLOCKwise SPINS

buy mag HV wire sets not carbon junk or green silicon slime wire, sets, cheaper the spark is not strong on suzuki's and needs and loves mag wire sets.
the spark gap is not .045" as set in the NGK factory, no it is 0.028" due to this weaker spark real. (and was until first COP spark coil pack sets used 1996/99)

the ecu does in fact monitor spark (primary side only) and cuts fuel if it goes dead. (fire safety)
the drawing above is not accurate, it is simple and there are fuses that must be good too. even a loose or cracked IG-coil fuse can be horrible. #8 below.
LOOK MA? no CMP sensor (cam)

[fixkick]

will run on test fuel.when engine is DEAD.  (2 factors there)  reverse of above. (did both ways due to things intermittent we must)

now;

so that is injection failure.  #1

if the ecu sees spark dead from the suppressor (spark actually good) the ecu cuts fuel, most times the suppressor never fails but can fall off, seen that.

if the ECU sees.

Pin A1 dead signal all fuel is cut, by ECU this is  hard coded logic in the ECU and is normal

rule #2 for this ECU

is pin A21, this is throttle angle, 1vdc is normal 4v to 5v it wrong dead wrong. at A21, if ever stuck high with tps ground broken?, the ECU goes to CUT FUEL MODE

this car and all suzuki EFI all cut fuel when driver pushes throttle pedal to floor cranking, this is the super secret unflood mode, (really all cars EFI)



make sure at key on, pin A23 is 5vdc, (4.75 to 5.25vdc) if not ECU is bad or that wire is shorted,  or B1/b7 dead.

key on CEL must Glow or the B1 and B7 pins are dead. The CEL lamp must GLOW keyon only, then go out engine running.


Things are not always simple and black and white, enter shades of gray:

there is the possibility that the spark is weak. good but weak. at brown/white wire above. bad COIL (spark)  can be weak too. even partial primary shorts.
this makes the suppressor wire goes weak and the ECU may not see the spark at A1.


this distrib is noted for lots of failures like this, both weak spark and intermittent dead spark.  and is 30 years old, there is that.
how does the instrument cluster tachometer work?  if dead cranked or running, then brown wire is dead or weak. (for sure not TACHO dead when test fuel works, (a 2 person test)
some of these cars have CRUISE control (and box)  that can short the brown wire, and fueling ENDS DEAD.  (brown the red/blue)
cranking rpm is only 200 rpm so tacho needle move very very tiny, and can be impossible to see then but for sure test fuel it must match engine RPM during that test, or the brown wire, is dead.

the car with no 4wd has no tachometer, so not sure what you really have there.

[fixkick]

3000 RPM idles are crazy high, and smacks of lots of failures that. 1500 is Par on typical cool morning start up.
vacuum leaks .
map sensor hoses cracked or clogged. end to end, intake man nipple to MAP. must be good.
throttle stuck open some way, throttle cable not set right with 1/2": (10mm) slack?> do you have 1 or 3 throttle cables. TV, A/T kickdown) and cruise cables.
the ISC stuck open top of TB. (new TB not possible this)
IAC at base of TB stuck open will they all are cold engine. all are.
Dash pot stuck open or engaged, at TB, it must release in 15 to 30 seconds after start, of engine.

my guess is NEW TB installed and not calibrated to this engine, as must be done first. on all TBI track-kicks. called IDLE duty cycle settings, at TV stop screw.
so is a side show now, but is it?. for sure TPS never calibrated. that too can be all wrong on any new TB installed.
the idle switch is calibrated with a feeler gauge even done on a bench this 1 step.
if the idle switch switch does not close at idle, idle controls are cancelled. and RPM is not known, in this state of wrong.
but none of this TB wrong stuff causes, cut fuel. but well if the TPS is mounted with zero regard to index pins inside, sure it can do throttle angle wrong (max) and cuts fuel. (some many things can be wrong for sure not calibrating TPS first. any alien TB out of any box)

[fixkick]

lots of things can kill this car dead at 30 years old,
just a rusted pin on ECT, and ohms goes to max (300 is normal hot) and engine floods fast. and stalls. (DTC is set for sure)
this failure tells ecu engine is cold lie and worse, located in the NORTH Klondike. (frigid)
some even flood with O2 sensor bad and no DTC is set at all. unplug the 02 sensor at run engine, see if it runs better, this sets O2 voltage to 0.45v , perfect. (a test)
to clear floods use WOT cranking, now. (the reason for me saying this is car started up after long park, (flood of fuel evaporated)
the MAP sensor must see vacuum actual at all times if not engine can flood.
Key factoid:
but you saw the injector go dead, and that is hard key evidence and symptom;. that can be worked,
Having a spare ECU on any car this old is , really what I did on all mine, for sure offroad , far far off road.

The tps must not signal WOT cranking, for ANY REASON, nor pin A1 go dead for any reasons, running.

[fixkick]

the dome fuse must be good or ECU forgets all stored DTC, and that be not wise. now.