Fuel Injector Stuck Open

[sina27]

Hello
Got a 1992 tracker, 8 valve TBI, 4WD, 5 speed, 2 door. 

The thing idles weird and throws code 41, seems to run VERY rich. Plugs are wet.
After doing a lot of diagnosis and looking at wiring, I think I found the problem (there is a page related to this
https://www.fixkick.com/INJECTORS/the-pu...atter.html

I noticed that the red fuel injector power input wire ( under dash, green ECM connecter, pin A8) is in hotwired to a thick white / green wire under the dash.
If I remove this wiring splice (disconnecting red wire from the white / green, which I think is input to battery positive), the car starts but then stumbles and dies. 
If I re-splice the red wire back to the white / green wire, it starts and idles (very rich). 

SO what is the best method to fix this?

• Could it be the yellow wire (A17) or red wire (A8) is damaged somwhere? 
  
• Could it be a faulty fuel injector? Should I just replace it? 
  
• Could it be an faulty ECU?
  
• Could it be my ECU isnt grounded correctly? Is the ground the main black / green wire that goes into A2 cavity? 
  

One thing I did notice: You mentioned on one page that the GROUND 103 location is crucial. I took a look at the negative battery cable, and it was attached to a bolt in front of the alternator, NOT THE TOP BOLT OF THE STARTER. I went ahead and put this ground in the correct location. 
Could it be that this messed up my ECU, and this is why the fuel injector red wire is spliced to keep it open? 


Also some side notes:

• I tested the ignition coil with a multimeter and it passed all resistance values. 
  
• I calibrated the TPS sensor using a multimeter. 
  
• I traced the brown wire going from noise suppressor to ECU / tach and it looks fine (thought this is what was giving me code 41 but I guess not). 
  
• Have not tested FPR, but the vaccume hose is NOT dribbling gas. 
  

Im not the best with wiring / electrical diagnosis. What would be the path of least resistance for me to solve this problem? 
Should i put in a new ECU? A New injector?

[fixkick]

Hello
Got a 1992 tracker, 8 valve TBI, 4WD, 5 speed, 2 door. 

The thing idles weird and throws code 41, seems to run VERY rich. Plugs are wet.
After doing a lot of diagnosis and looking at wiring, I think I found the problem (there is a page related to this
https://www.fixkick.com/INJECTORS/the-pu...atter.html

I noticed that the red fuel injector power input wire ( under dash, green ECM connecter, pin A8) is in hotwired to a thick white / green wire under the dash.
If I remove this wiring splice (disconnecting red wire from the white / green, which I think is input to battery positive), the car starts but then stumbles and dies. 
If I re-splice the red wire back to the white / green wire, it starts and idles (very rich). 

SO what is the best method to fix this?

• Could it be the yellow wire (A17) or red wire (A8) is damaged somwhere? 
  
• Could it be a faulty fuel injector? Should I just replace it? 
  
• Could it be an faulty ECU?
  
• Could it be my ECU isnt grounded correctly? Is the ground the main black / green wire that goes into A2 cavity? 
  

One thing I did notice: You mentioned on one page that the GROUND 103 location is crucial. I took a look at the negative battery cable, and it was attached to a bolt in front of the alternator, NOT THE TOP BOLT OF THE STARTER. I went ahead and put this ground in the correct location. 
Could it be that this messed up my ECU, and this is why the fuel injector red wire is spliced to keep it open? 


Also some side notes:

• I tested the ignition coil with a multimeter and it passed all resistance values. 
  
• I calibrated the TPS sensor using a multimeter. 
  
• I traced the brown wire going from noise suppressor to ECU / tach and it looks fine (thought this is what was giving me code 41 but I guess not). 
  
• Have not tested FPR, but the vaccume hose is NOT dribbling gas. 
  

Im not the best with wiring / electrical diagnosis. What would be the path of least resistance for me to solve this problem? 
Should i put in a new ECU? A New injector?

What would be the path of least resistance for me to solve this problem? 
there is no path like that.  (just a huge lists of tests and tools to do them )
there are 3000 parts to this car, counting screws too.
I say its down to 200  parts or less. if engine passes compression tests and vacuum tests, then the engine is ok. (mostly
code 41 never lies sever, the primary coil is in fact misfiring. for sure,
is the cam belt good if it goes loss and jogs spark timing goes nuts,  so that must be good the cam belt, a 60,000 mile service point it is.
the spark wiries cannot be tested, well if open circuit yes, but they fail; for insulation leakage, or silly useless carbon core bad, or silly worse silicon core wires, bad. some fail when the engine flexes, but that does not cause 41.but does cause misfire.
this car is old and most this hold have like 5 more more things wrong, this old. nothing new about that.
the perfect injector can NOT  prevent misfire, if spark is misfiring, it can only inject.
yes rich burning cause misfire too but not code 41, 41 means the coil primary plus ended 1 in time 10 times.  (about )  

it could just  be a bad wire or connector to ignitor and coil.  just that.  
be  shame to replace 100 parts to find one bad wire.  the wiring must all be good to the EFI system.

a new coil or ignitor might bet the cure.
both are code 41 prime parts.

the ECU with  bad caps, causes the ECU to reboot even running, this sure can make the ignitor misfire and injector too. both. there is no injector monitor on this car. so.... there is that./


these old ecu need a recap.
for sure seen them leak acid
or cracked, or have rubicon onside white over black shell. bad those are.
seen vast fail.
and never fun to fix any car like this.

$4 in parts,  see my ecu page
see the ecu leaks slide show yet.
https://fixkick.com/ECU/hell/html/image_6.html


see the green slime of death
see  splits or bulges or see leaks.
the big corner cap MUST BE GOOD, no exceptions. and is easy to buy new cap. mouser.com  see my links for that ecu dead. page.