Esteem 1.6 16valve first start and run

[Jules]

Seems like it runs ok, but maybe a vacuum leak somewhere. It also started whining a bit as you can hear - I'm not sure what that is. I also need to make sure the coolant is going all thru the engine.

[fixkick]

Seems like it runs ok, but maybe a vacuum leak somewhere. It also started whining a bit as you can hear - I'm not sure what that is. I also need to make sure the coolant is going all thru the engine.

thanks for sharing such a great video.  on engine stand is for sure cool.
the IAC will run fast idle 1500RPM is common unless colder outside,  2000possilbe if super cold. 0C or 32F? or lower?


use scan tool on it, yet>  OBD2? USA are OBD2) see what you get for DCT errors and live  sensor data?

[Jules]

Oops. Forgot to install PCV valve. Need to get one then test again.

[fixkick]

Oops. Forgot to install PCV valve. Need to get one then test again.

bingo

[Jules]

Got a PCV valve installed and it runs alot better now. Idles around proper speed with slight movement up and down. Maybe a small vac leak somewhere. I let it run for about 30 mins and it ran good. Almost ready for its new home. Will replace some hoses that are old, maybe feel an oil leak from my modified oil pan and cut out some wires before it goes into its new home (the buggy).

[Jules]

Engine seems to be running ok so I'm trying to trim the harness to get rid of the clutter that I don't need. Disassembled the steering column to remove the ignition switch. Will take a look to see what I can remove next.

   

[Jules]

Problems... engine starts when cold but stalls when warms up and won't start again unless I use some starter fluid. Then, it will stall unless I keep the throttle on a little bit. I'm getting the following codes:

141 - O2 sensor bank 1 sensor 2

758 - shift solenoid B electrical...

[fixkick]

Problems... engine starts when cold but stalls when warms up and won't start again unless I use some starter fluid.
Lean stalls:?
MAF dead, or weak or , air leaks  past the end of MAF on engine size.
but no by below.

Then, it will stall unless I keep the throttle on a little bit.
So it will not hold 800RPM by itself hot.?  is coolant reaching 180F or  more. 195F is top stat markings,
sounds to me like bead IAC/ISC idle speed controls.  what car did this engine come out of , I forgot .. Esteem 1.6l G16B, what year?

I'm getting the following codes:

141 - O2 sensor bank 1 sensor 2 ( useless rear 02 , is only CAT check test only and is its heater element dead, not drawing current failure 1amp is normal)

758 - shift solenoid B electrical... Shift Solenoid ‘‘B’’ (No. 2) Electrical, dead solenoid.  4speed A/T,  no worry until driving it.....

Off hand I'd say ISC if failing, the electric 2 wire ISC valve is stuck, or wire to it bad. cut.

[fixkick]

to get all OBD2 codes, one must drive car 2 times at least (OBD2 jive yes) called driving cycles.  
2 driving cycles , to get the more advance better codes like lean or rich and misfire codes.   but many scan tolls good have PENDINGS button, that discloses these,.
many DTC can set if present for 0.5 second to 5seconds, no matter what. or on engine temps are hot only.
some take only 2 ignition on cycles. not driving cycles (cold to hot the cold repeat) 125 slow close loop (late) is this, 2cycle ign.
02 sensor tests  P0131 (and others) , needs  20mph more , 2500rpm or more and for 20seconds,   in closed loop (steady right foot cruise) or the test is not done.  (tricky  no?)


No drive-able car testing, I can help:
the only way to use OBD2 , is to drive 2 or 3 times cold to hot engine,. (or on some the 2 Ignition cycle rules)
or  drive and log DTC or PEndings (many times  up to 3)
or parked, get engine hot,  run scan tool and try in neutral park,  HOT engine 180F is hot , or thermostat is bad )
the try idle speed, for 20seconds, key off, then start again repeat 2 or 3 times. then try 2500 , by hand on throttle, same way, for 20 seconds. (3x)
VSS test only happens at fuel cut mode,  was say cruising and you lift right foot off pedal. 5 sec, test, long. P0500
DTC0505 (idle speed controller issues) takes 2 Ign cycles to set of fails 2 times) ISC fails>!!!!

"Difference from target speed is 100 RPM lower than (699 fail)
target value.
Difference from target speed is 200 RPM greater (most times is 800 rpm so 1001 is fail)
than target value.
Engine coolant temperature is between 70°C
(158°F) and 110°C (230°F).
Intake air temperature is between -10°C (14 °F) and   (as you can see tests will be dead in Alaska ,etc)
70°C (158°F).
Barometric pressure is greater than 75 kPa.
In closed loop. "

try to simulate  actual driving parked to see all DTC's possible, (some are not possible,, like all tranny codes all, and more.  
EVAP tests only set at 2 ignition runs and 2 fails. and only hot  engines. and only 1000 to 3000 rpm engine, and the test can take 20 full minute to complete, (yah minutes) later 443 is idle only test.
DTC 300 misfire. less than 4000 RPM, fuel tank above 15% full, no empty reading. steady throttle, (cruise or idle)

"fuel trim checks like P0171?
Vehicle speed above 32 km/h (20 mph) and engine
rpm greater than 2000 RPM for 20 seconds in
closed loop."

As  rule all catastrophic tests (OBD) will set in 1second running the engine, (example dead sensors)  that is why low numbers errors are diagnosed first,  
Is your engine attaining closes loop status , hot,?  at idle or at 2500 rpm holding throttle steady. ?
and do not forget to use the pending button after 2 hot  runs. or 3 runs.  use it to see errors (real) that have not set yet,  and freeze-frame  data too..... all this is key to diagnosing any OBD2 car, 1996 up.

some tests are not done below  (41 °F) (air temp , seen at IAT sensor) make sure air cleaner is not dirty and packed up or the FAM can fail.
Make sure the maf is clean, use spray cleaner, hold nozzles 8 inches back so as not to damage the fine element inside,  spray let sit for 1 min and repeat,  say 3 times,

Some MAFs have self clean mode, but not this car,  and will coke up say 50kmiles on freeways .

[fixkick]

btw, thanks for sharing your videos, very fun to watch and hear kid talk, cute.
it sounds good, no misfire cold , that is good.
on all engines like this, (stripped down)
the engine must get hot, 180f this is first.
fuel pressure at spec, (FPR rules)
no missing sensors that would cause OBD2 to go to (grenade mode! ) that one guy here (LOL) calls failsafe (Limp home ) mode.
the list is here.
and not causing closed loop TRIM to fail. (dead 02 front B1S1)
MAF = P0102/103
IAT = P0112/113
ECT = P0117/118
TPS = P112/123

the transmission has its own failsafe, (skips gears- 2nd?) not related to engine, fueling .
for
VSS1 = P0500 ( speedo vss) Vehicle Speed sensor = VSS
TR = P0705 (A/T Range shifter output in conflict)
VSS2 = P0720 ( 4sp Vss tail speed sensor dead)
SS#1 = P0753 (shift solenoid 1 bad)
SS#2 = P0758 (shift solenoid 2 bad)
TCC = P0743 (torque converter clutch malf)


the scan tool has this screen called, MONITORS RUN OUT, this screen tells you if all monitors are complete, if not , many tests and errors are not complete yet.
That is why the smog stations fails you with CEL on, or if monitors not RUN OUT,( means completed)
and is the best way to see if all is Okay.