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Engine turns over but wont start, no spark to plugs
#11
On another note, pulled instrument panel to see about CEL. No lamp in that socket but had a piece of tape over it (thanks PO).... Replaced with another bulb and got my CEL. Put the jumper in and got a code 42... Don't know if this helps or not at this point...
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#12
42 is a crank angle sensor on my vehicle. You may want to put your vehicle info in your signature so that folks can help you better.
95 Geo Tracker, Build Date 1/95,16v, Fed, Cami, 4x4, MT, Headed for Grenada.
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#13
42 is clear as day, all the time the ECU wanted to tell you what was dead, how about that.!
i means 1 in 10 pulses from the CMP are missing, or ALL OF THEM. (dead)
nice PO, not.

so, make sure the grounds are not bad at the xxxxx oops no year or engine stated
use a signature or profile to tell helpers what you have.

all this is easy stuff.
on the 8v those ground wires on the DIZZY mount are not for fun, they are key in the ECU ground systems
and the dizzy almost never fails the CMP, unless the grounds are bad or the side connector is loose or corroded.

92 8v.
i read the whole post its and 8v. with only 1 injector
so read my bad grounds.
here.
G105 ground? bad?

http://www.fixkick.com/Good_Bad_Ugly/com...lures.html


read my CMP test , on my no spark page, (i really have no spark it says) then.

the cmp can be tested 3 ways, (scope, meter and LED lamp)

http://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/no-spa...CK_:_89-95

the best meter to uses is a 10 buck walfart analog needle meter. and one leather sewing needle for back probing on car.
most easy and no making tools, or $100 boat anchor scopes.
the FSM covers that why, fully (meter set to 20vdc, and test lead black to ground and white dizzy wire backprobed (do not unconnect the dizzy or it will be dead)


but here is a video with a LED (dizzy out of car)
a 12vdc battery
and LED.

http://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/dizzy-test1.jpg
and see it flash.

http://www.fixkick.com/videos/FLV-all/showtime.html#CMP

or connect the voltmeter to the white pin, on the Dizzy connnector, back probed with sewing needle.
and see the needle (meter needle) wag 0v ,5v, 0v, as you crank engine.
http://www.fixkick.com
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#14
Sorry for the delay. I have been gone out of town for work for a while and haven't had internet access.

First off, I want to say thank you for all your help and suggestions on figuring out my issue at hand. Second, I have to say I feel like a dummy (more so, I am just unfamiliar with what I am working on).

I determined the issue on the tracker after staring at the engine compartment and the wiring diagram for a bit. Turns out, there must have been a slice connector where the fire started (probably the culprit), which connected all the blue/black wires together (under the intake manifold, so hard to see/tell). So after staring at the diagram, I decided to connect all 4 blue/black wires with a wire nut to see what happened... Did so, turned car over and it immediately cranked up and ran smooth!!! All I could do was sit back and laugh because it was so simple of a mistake, or not knowing what I was dealing with. Anyhow, I connected things with waterproof connectors and wrapped all wires tightly. Been driving her ever since with no problems!!!

Again, thank you for all the help and support!
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#15
Fabulous.

yes, those under the intake are very hard to examine.
great that she runs again.

happy trails !
http://www.fixkick.com
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