ecu plug connection issue

[RustyZuk89]

1989 sidekick, 2 door,4wd, 8v.

Just got this sidekick from my neighbor who blew the engine his first time wheeling it. Hydrolocked the engine, then threw the #1 connecting rod through the side of the block. My father and I just got done installing a salvage yard engine in fairly good shape. It would always run really erratic, even when the neighbor had it. Then yesterday I noticed an erratic clicking coming from the dash while messing around with it. It was almost like a relay click. Reached my arm under the dash and noticed that if I push up on the ecu connector then it suddenly runs good. I only had some old fuses around so I stuck the fuse blades under the plug to keep constant pressure on it. The car runs beautiful now. I guess my question is should I just leave the fuse/wedge in there? Are replacement pins for the plug available anywhere? Could the problem be in ecu itself? The plug looked good visually.

Thanks in advance.

[fixkick]

he needs an induction snorkel, he did this fording stream (or the like) moving too fast.
bad wiring to or at ECU.
if he fords streams, the wiring will fail and if the ECU gets wet, it too.

there are only harnesses off wrecked cars now. (suzuki used to sell harnesses only, and at huge prices)
and Suzuki never sold connectors. (a very bad deal that)
the connector is just that, 2 connectors. (locked , must be unlocked) did you remove them, then reSEAT them? first>?
is it the big pin connector green or the small white /cream connector
Conectors: (both)
it has 2 pins, one male and one female. the ecu is male side. the pins last near forever, if not taken underwater.
like this ascii art line....below.
harness----copperwires-----female< to < male pins------ , then PCB solder pin (crackled?), then ECU copper traces(PCB)(cracked)

each wire on ecu is like this. and any could fail, at any point on that line above.
the first step is which connector is it? the green one with larger pins?
knowing this fact cuts the pins that can bad by 1/2.

it can be the wire bad. (damaged just before it enters or at the connector)
the connector female bad
the connector male bad
the ECU bad, due to bad solder joint on male PCB solder pad cracked.

your wedge in socket fix proves it's one of those.
try another ecu if the pins look ok, did you look....at pins? the green connector has gold pins (IIRC) the white conn are silver colored, not rusty or white corroded.
look at the pin actual, while ,retracted.(disconnected)
if they look good , and the wires are not damage, id go for an ECU.
in fact, id never own any car this old lacking a good spare ECU.

off my ecu page. this
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/EPC-ECU96-98/...9-95NA.pdf

there 2 ecu uses, in usa.
60a32 , m/t
60a40 , auto.

they (ECU) are not easy to find, but cardone has them. (and the scalpers on fleabay)

http://www.cardone.com/find-parts/vehicl...&year=1989

they are not programmable at all, each market uses different ECU, for smog, 8v, trans, body size/4wd/2wd and country.
these old ECu have no FLASH memory but use hard coded ROM, (forever)
cardone is the maker, they do not sell direct
just google there p/n to find a store that sells them, MOST DO. or can get them.
the link is a wholesale makers (builders) catalog not RETAIL.


there are many 60axx ecu used world wide, for 1989s, each tuned to pass smog laws in any of 90 markets.
but here its 2 to 4 ecu's
state side.


id dismantle the ecu, put in the new caps.
the visual the pins that fail, on the ECU side, look for damage traces there.
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/ECU.html