Door won't unlock/open

[fetcher]

the they are tight use this.
https://www.harborfreight.com/impact-scr...37530.html

I liked this review on the tool :
"I was drunk when I tried to use the tool. I smashed my thumb with the hammer and a piece of the bit chipped and hit me in the face. I have a huge scar from the bit and now I walk with a limp. I have developed a severe case of hammaphobia and I am afraid to leave the house except to buy beer. My medical bills are piling up and that's adding to my depression. I would recommend this tool to anyone who does not drink."

[Pavel14]

fixkick,

Thanks for the diagram. Of course, I can't get at the 3 Philips screws (#7) with the door closed and unopenable. I had this all apart the first time - it all was freed up and working fine until the door was closed...
The lever, marked 1 - 2 in the diagram seems to be the problem - it moves back and forth only a little bit. Something is stopping it from rocking enough to unlock. Will try again with better light and perhaps tap it gently.

[fixkick]

i forgot to ask, at the doors , locks, electric? as seen on some 4doors? my guess not. but???

ok, that device, does 2 things.
one is a latch it unlatces, or latches, closing the door it latches automatically
the the top lever, unlatches it.
the bottom levers there are locks.
the conundrum here is, (is the lock stuck or just the latch) if one lever stuck, then that is it.



the only way to cure this is to get the top levers to work, try penetrating oil?
my guess is this car is in the rust belt? (wiki that)

and it's all rusted up?
i cant see it to access what's up there.
but only a direct attack on that lock/latch mechanism works.
id first us a powerful light there to see whats up. and then see if both lever on the device are free to move, if one is stuck that I attack that, first with PEN oil, penetrating oil.

RUST is a PROBLEM here; if see Here: (can be tedious)
like i said i cant see it, seeing is EVERYTHING
if I saw , massive rust, i'd attack it with my bottle of Phosphoric acid (its sold as brick etching liquid) this eats rust and coverts it.
then flush that out in 1hr later with water. then hot air blow it dry, with a heat gun.
i then attack it with this, "liquid wrench" never WD40( its for other things)

https://www.walmart.com/ip/LIQUID-WRENCH...l/47347629


here is the part, in the real.

[fixkick]

if the locking device is free, to move. the the latch is stuck.
the latch opens the door,
the latch part is seen , dead center above.,
if this part rusts , there, it can be very hard to open the door.
next is the inside view.
see those 2 red X's
those are Pivot points, those levers must be free to move. or its will not open the door. latch.
one locks the latch
and the other is the latch actuator that opens the door. releases door to open.
id bet its rust. invasion, am I right?????

[fixkick]

the larger rod is the latch, small rods are unlocking devices. IIRC

[fetcher]

Search ebay for " Inspection Camera Borescope Endoscope USB " and consider is any of them would be useful in diagnosing the problem or
directing where the liquid wrench is spraying.

[fixkick]

the latch is in plain view door skins, cards off, and plastic water barrier off.
that is like step1.
then a flashlight,
find which lever is stick , by looking,at the photos above, find the lever that is jammmed
first is the lock lever, (that goes to the key tumbler.)
it must be free to unlock or it wont, once that is free, then you open the LATCH.
it too must be free, or it will not unlatch the door, and open
all this takes is hands and a flashlight for the diagnosis part, and pen oil attacks of same parts, if jammed.
use a flash light and get close, to the latch, and check it for stuck parts

[fixkick]

if the lock lever is jammed closed , messing with the unlatch is wasted effort.
locked is locked. fix that first.

[Pavel14]

Thanks for the multiple, in-depth replies fixkick and fetcher.

I confess I just used WD40 because that was all that was available... will bring Liquid Wrench or Deep Creep or Mouse Milk or ??? next time. I have a "boroscope" that can be very handy for jobs like this. If you've ever used one, you'll remember that getting the wand with the camera to the correct angle is a big part of the game. I've had to tape the goose-neck wand to the job and prop up the hand held screen so that I could then "work" the job.... or have an assistant. If you ever get one of these boroscopes, get one that has the video out USB or whatever - recording the video is a huge improvement over just watching it live.

OK gentlemen, give me some time to follow your advice and I'll report back in a week or two.

Cheers, Pavel (my version of the rust belt is the "Pacific Northwest" about the 49th)

PS: the next question will be about fuel pump access...

[Pavel14]

To answer your questions:

No, it's just a manual lock (thank heavens)

The replacement lock, for $110USD would more than double my investment in this vehicle - further, the link to the Suzuki Part vendor says it's not available.