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CV boot
#11
Just ordered the heater core and lower hose from southwest suzuki. Also got the cv boots from RockAuto. I'll ask you for pointers on the cv boot installation if I run into troubles, I'll try to follow the fsm te best I can
1996 Geo Tracker, CAMI, 16 valve, 5sp, 4x4, soft top, 2 door, no a/c
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#12
ouch , bad core.
i have the Mr.Galathon page, that cuts a stip of plastic to save major steering take down.,

the FSM , covers it is 5 major sections.. (lil horror that)
but Mr. G did it like this.

http://www.fixkick.com/Cooling-engine/he...index.html

see fsm links art top.

do please defeat those air bags first they hold a charge,, a big charge in side. ( due to assuming battery explodes first in all car crashes front)
please be safe. the Tsb ON IT on all pages , on my site for dash work. ask if not find it.
http://www.fixkick.com
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#13
No no, I meant heater core coant hoses like you recommended, heater core is good (for now) still took down te whole dash to fit replacement center heat vents since po decided to cut them out to fit silly gauges, I need my heat so I'm putting back the venta but ha to dismount the whole dash to get to the screws thy hold the vents in place (they're screwed from the back) I I disable airbags first. I'm more worried to do cv boots any shortcuts you know it's be nice to know, I bought oem style (no split aftermarket) I read somewhere that Ben if I take down the diff I have to dissemble the cv?
1996 Geo Tracker, CAMI, 16 valve, 5sp, 4x4, soft top, 2 door, no a/c
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#14
sorry , i saw core.. so.... glad it not core~!
(05-05-2013, 07:49 AM)gorkyb Wrote: No no, I meant heater core coolant hoses like you recommended, heater core is good (for now) still took down te whole dash to fit replacement center heat vents since po decided to cut them out to fit silly gauges, I need my heat so I'm putting back the venta but ha to dismount the whole dash to get to the screws thy hold the vents in place (they're screwed from the back) I I disable airbags first.
i do have a hint the core hoses, cut them off, (they make special tool) but i use and exacto knife,.inverted. if twist them the brass tubes snap so very easy. I lay the knife upside down, the cut from brass tube up..


I'm more worried to do cv boots any shortcuts you know it's be nice to know, I bought oem style (no split aftermarket) I read somewhere that Ben if I take down the diff I have to dissemble the cv? s
see video below, the end CV must be extracted, from the shaft. only hard part it grease all over. (nice warning on not mixing grease types, !!!

getting them out is the only hard part, , I'd use the FSM way,,, there are no short cuts, never heard of one.. (drop center/drop ends, one or other.)
the CV and axles and all must clear the hubs to come out. they are captive.
so the lower strut must be dropped, under spring pressures, (be careful there)

working the cv is here. with video (generic the vid)

http://www.acksfaq.com/cvhalfshaft.htm

the boots are held with steel straps. buy boots that have the best strap. the strap deal is the hard part for boot swap. if at all.
do research on this band deal, acks site only says its a beach to do. leading many to exchanged axles, (rebuilts)
some just have a band with slot, so i use needle nose pliers. to pull that down and get it tight, some rent a tool from Zone, or advanced to tighten the bands. they must be tight or the boot will retract later, and fly grease all over.
my bands had a fold back clip that locks the end of band. Try Dorman boots, (no endorsement, as parts changes like fall leaves)

good luck to you!
http://www.fixkick.com
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#15
ok, so after such a long time I finally replaced the inner driver side cv boot, there is no shortcut, yet it is pretty straight forward:

- take wheel off
- unbolt caliper bracket
- uninstall 4wd hub
- unscrew locking washer
- loosen locking nut with special tool
- unbolt spindle
- pull out cv axle and replace cv boot on workbench
- re install everything using proper torque

Since I was doing this I also replace struts and put back stock coil springs, also got 235/75R15's, cheap from Amazon. Looks and feels so different.

What do you guys think?


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1996 Geo Tracker, CAMI, 16 valve, 5sp, 4x4, soft top, 2 door, no a/c
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#16
" Just remove the lockout hubs... in order to access the "C" clip on the end of each CV shaft...
Then the one on the left unbolts on the diff end...
Turn your steering to the left... and slide the left CV shaft out...
On the right... remove the three lower ball joint bolts so the spindle/strut assembly will swing out away from the CV axle...
Carefully pry the inner end of the CV shaft... out of the diff center housing... not to damage the seal...

I replace the boot... they come apart from the inside...
you would have to first slide the inner boot off then replace the outer boot... I've used boots off other TrackKick axles... ALL of my transplanted "used" boots have held up just fine... for several years now...

Jeff"

FROM HERe
http://bbs.zuwharrie.com/content/topic,1...msg1156314
http://www.fixkick.com
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