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CV boot
#1
In your experience, what is the best approach to replacing a broken CV boot. The one broken on my Tracker is the one on the front passenger side. I've seen a few options, including one that allows me to slip it on without having to take down the CV. Also, when I go on rockauto.com to price one out , they have inner and outter. I'm a little confused, which one would I need. Thank you
1996 Geo Tracker, CAMI, 16 valve, 5sp, 4x4, soft top, 2 door, no a/c
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#2
there are many makers of split boots, some work , some do not. some are a just generic boots. they usually don't fit. or leak.

here is my pan pull page (actually a contributors) and shows the inner and outer boots well.
http://www.fixkick.com/axles/Pan-drop/pandrop.html
as you note, there are 3 ways , 1, the above.
2 split boot tricks.
3: pull the side down from the axle end. FSM 96' chapter 4C covers this. here is the full chapter in PDF.
http://www.acksfaq.com/96-FSM-v1-4c-pdf.htm
right side is on page. 4C7 , "right driver shaft remove and disconnect...."
if there is a short cut to this, im not sure, see here.
http://bbs.zuwharrie.com/content/topic,1...msg1156298

and , off car
http://www.acksfaq.com/cvhalfshaft.htm

good luck to you, more on the maf , tests. later today. cheers !
http://www.fixkick.com
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#3
Uufff, it sounds like I'll be dropping that diff, oh well
1996 Geo Tracker, CAMI, 16 valve, 5sp, 4x4, soft top, 2 door, no a/c
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#4
if only a tiny crack. and not dry inside, you could clean it and RTV it, for when you have more time, to deal with it.

good luck to you , gorky , and good luck in school too.
http://www.fixkick.com
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#5
I had the front differential dropped six months ago to change oil pump gasket, for the price of the boots I should have changed them both, you live and you learn, two more weeks to end of semester, the tracker shall be road ready by then thanks to my stubbornness and fixkick.com
1996 Geo Tracker, CAMI, 16 valve, 5sp, 4x4, soft top, 2 door, no a/c
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#6
dont forget all new rubber coolant hoses ,they are all at end of life now. cost me $100 for the set. the 2 tubes to he heater core like to fail, at the most inconvenient moment. fast, and far from home.
http://www.fixkick.com
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#7
(04-29-2013, 02:32 AM)fixkick Wrote: dont forget all new rubber coolant hoses ,they are all at end of life now. cost me $100 for the set. the 2 tubes to he heater core like to fail, at the most inconvenient moment. fast, and far from home.

do they sell a whole set? or you picked and chose the ones you need?
1996 Geo Tracker, CAMI, 16 valve, 5sp, 4x4, soft top, 2 door, no a/c
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#8
[not sure on the set. i actually replaced them all. at once. im sure they only last 10 years. (climate related, ) seen them go 15y , the stock hose i think are EPDM rubber and very good.
i used the numbers in the EPC and made a text file and emailed it to the suzuki parts guy, he said he had them all. just not cheap.


the scary ones are the ones the flex with engine reverse torque. 2 on rad and 2 on heater core.
http://www.fixkick.com
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#9
I understand, all the other ones are installed within the engine therefore they don't go through the stress the upper, lower radiator and heater core (2) suffer with the engine moving upon acceleration and shift while driving.
1996 Geo Tracker, CAMI, 16 valve, 5sp, 4x4, soft top, 2 door, no a/c
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#10
the hoses love to look good on the outside, this type. but inside not so.
they dont get hard and crank on outside like olden days hoses. of rubber. these last longer but feel (flex test) good just before they fail.
http://www.fixkick.com
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