Crank backstop damage??

[eatthebiscuits]

Hey everyone! First off, what a great site with a wealth of information on these awesome little 4x4s!

Anyway, I had to fix the head gasket on my zook, and while I was there, decided to do the timing belt, w/pump, tensioner and seals (would be mad not to). Well, the crank bolt was fairly loose, and the key and cog were damaged. I bought a 2nd hand key, washer and cog from the wreckers (looks in perfect condition), and did the loctite 660 repair as described on this site. Torqued it all down. Engine runs better than it ever has! But there was a horrible rubbing/ chirping sound. So pulled it to bits again, and the big washer behind the cog had been rubbing on the oil pump housing. I noticed that when I begin to tighten the crank bolt that big washer twists and makes contact with the oil pump instead of staying flush with the cog. Visually the crank backstop looks ok, but must be some wear there for this to happen? What's the best repair for this? I didn't want to loctite it all together permanently if I didn't have to. Can I run it without this washer? Any advice would be hugely appreciated.

[fixkick]

well the cog there from 1996 and 1992-95 are not same.
what is the engine block serial, G16Tnnnnn is 1996, what is your T.
the early block has washer detached. 96+ washer is gone and has new built in tone wheel there for CKP sensor. (so the 96 has deeper cog with that)
is the washer backwards? or damaged.?
is the pump suzuki or from china we see china oil pumps no good, cloned, and are to big, larger in the forward direction, got to love knockoffs no? is pump still fitted with a metal gasket? (sides not on bottom pan, as pan is glued on with RTV)_ the steel gaskets yell suzuki made in most cases.

if the crank backstop is ok, then it is. and the washer is wrong , inverted or pump is bad.