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(10-16-2021, 12:14 PM)MICHAEL Wrote: Hello, I have a 1997 Sidekick Sport 4 door manual tranny; it has the 2.3L motor swap - bought 4 months ago. As far as I know 1.8-2.3 are nearly the same?
I noticed that the radiator and lower rad hose are always cold. The radiator and thermostat are new. The water is hot on the water pump side, but cold on stat housing and below. I am pretty sure all the air is out of the system. I am only noticing this now, so may be normal this time of year? It was quite hot out 4 months ago and I was crawling through the trails - never overheats or runs hot. Needle is always in the middle of the gauge. The hose coming out of the heater core is almost the same as going in. I always hear water flowing in the heater core when upshifting (over 3000rpm or so). I flushed/cleaned the heater core - no debris/water flow seemed good.
I just bought an IR gun today and measurements are as follows:
Cylinder head - 160°F
upper radiator hose - 200°F
lower radiator hose - 110°F
water pump - 200°F
upper heater hose - 175°F
lower heater hose. - 160°F
lower rate radio lower heater hose pipe at water pump - 200°F
When I turn the engine off, there is a suction sort of sound in the upper radiator hose. What a pinch in the other three tiny water hoses see picture the suction immediately stops.
Any ideas? WELCOME ! Michael.
yes, a 90deg F RAD drop with that very good working radiator. (nice RAD and good rad fan too, parked)
this system also runs backwards, reverse fllow, and other strange, ways too. let me explain them all. (try)
1: reverse flow. (as seen by the thermostat only) such that pipe 22 is key to it working right.
2: even more odd the coolant (water) temp sensor is on the rear of the head not in the thermostat well, so the ETC sensor reads wrong all time time. (off set way higher) the ECU knows that and is happy there. ECT readings or IR GUN on rear, ECT metal housing will show way hotter than thermostat reading. (it run 180 so ECT might run 225?f) as head heats it up more.
the hottest water lands on heater core top hose and ECT both. and top rad hose
3: the cab heater must flow water all the times (running sure) and its related bypass tubes, and if NOT the thermostat will fail open properly or it will surge like mad.
it needs a custom 1.8L (up) thermostat for backwards flow systems and has a rubber ring around there rim that must not be missing.
4; hose 22 and 19 must not be missing or blocked.
for there to be full heater core drop the blower must be on full and cold air is sucking into it, if not no drop happens or small 15f above is your drop
that suction sound to me is air is the system. not purged fully. getting it out can be hard in custom car like this. adding a purge port may be a cure.
looks to me all is ok but odd sounds.
nice car you built very nice and interesting too and thanks for sharing this, I love projects like this. lots of fun this build, I am sure.
cheers and good luck , kick
http://www.fixkick.com
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10-17-2021, 01:11 AM
(This post was last modified: 10-17-2021, 01:22 AM by MICHAEL.)
(10-16-2021, 09:57 PM)fixkick Wrote: (10-16-2021, 12:14 PM)MICHAEL Wrote: Hello, I have a 1997 Sidekick Sport 4 door manual tranny; it has the 2.3L motor swap - bought 4 months ago. As far as I know 1.8-2.3 are nearly the same?
I noticed that the radiator and lower rad hose are always cold. The radiator and thermostat are new. The water is hot on the water pump side, but cold on stat housing and below. I am pretty sure all the air is out of the system. I am only noticing this now, so may be normal this time of year? It was quite hot out 4 months ago and I was crawling through the trails - never overheats or runs hot. Needle is always in the middle of the gauge. The hose coming out of the heater core is almost the same as going in. I always hear water flowing in the heater core when upshifting (over 3000rpm or so). I flushed/cleaned the heater core - no debris/water flow seemed good.
I just bought an IR gun today and measurements are as follows:
Cylinder head - 160°F
upper radiator hose - 200°F
lower radiator hose - 110°F
water pump - 200°F
upper heater hose - 175°F
lower heater hose. - 160°F
lower rate radio lower heater hose pipe at water pump - 200°F
When I turn the engine off, there is a suction sort of sound in the upper radiator hose. What a pinch in the other three tiny water hoses see picture the suction immediately stops.
Any ideas? WELCOME ! Michael.
yes, a 90deg F RAD drop with that very good working radiator. (nice RAD and good rad fan too, parked)
this system also runs backwards, reverse fllow, and other strange, ways too. let me explain them all. (try)
1: reverse flow. (as seen by the thermostat only) such that pipe 22 is key to it working right.
2: even more odd the coolant (water) temp sensor is on the rear of the head not in the thermostat well, so the ETC sensor reads wrong all time time. (off set way higher) the ECU knows that and is happy there. ECT readings or IR GUN on rear, ECT metal housing will show way hotter than thermostat reading. (it run 180 so ECT might run 225?f) as head heats it up more.
the hottest water lands on heater core top hose and ECT both. and top rad hose
3: the cab heater must flow water all the times (running sure) and its related bypass tubes, and if NOT the thermostat will fail open properly or it will surge like mad.
it needs a custom 1.8L (up) thermostat for backwards flow systems and has a rubber ring around there rim that must not be missing.
4; hose 22 and 19 must not be missing or blocked.
for there to be full heater core drop the blower must be on full and cold air is sucking into it, if not no drop happens or small 15f above is your drop
that suction sound to me is air is the system. not purged fully. getting it out can be hard in custom car like this. adding a purge port may be a cure.
looks to me all is ok but odd sounds.
nice car you built very nice and interesting too and thanks for sharing this, I love projects like this. lots of fun this build, I am sure.
cheers and good luck , kick
THANKS FOR THE INFO. 2 QUESTIONS STILL: IT'S A 180F STAT - WHY DOES IT NOT OPEN IF WATER BEHIND IS 200F? ALSO, WHAT ARE THOSE TINY HOSES FOR? LOOKS LIKE ONE GOES TO THE T.B. - CAN I RUN THE ENGINE WITH THE LONG ONE DISCONNECTED..FOR TESTING PURPOSES SOUNDS LIKE I'D HAVE TO BE IN A DESERT BEFORE THAT STAT OPENS LOL. I HAVE A 4.5" LIFT;2" BODY LIFT; 33's; KRAWLER CASE; E-LOCKER
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10-17-2021, 05:25 AM
(This post was last modified: 10-17-2021, 05:27 AM by fixkick.)
(10-17-2021, 01:11 AM)MICHAEL Wrote: (10-16-2021, 09:57 PM)fixkick Wrote: (10-16-2021, 12:14 PM)MICHAEL Wrote: Hello, I have a 1997 Sidekick Sport 4 door manual tranny; it has the 2.3L motor swap - bought 4 months ago. As far as I know 1.8-2.3 are nearly the same?
I noticed that the radiator and lower rad hose are always cold. The radiator and thermostat are new. The water is hot on the water pump side, but cold on stat housing and below. I am pretty sure all the air is out of the system. I am only noticing this now, so may be normal this time of year? It was quite hot out 4 months ago and I was crawling through the trails - never overheats or runs hot. Needle is always in the middle of the gauge. The hose coming out of the heater core is almost the same as going in. I always hear water flowing in the heater core when upshifting (over 3000rpm or so). I flushed/cleaned the heater core - no debris/water flow seemed good.
I just bought an IR gun today and measurements are as follows:
Cylinder head - 160°F
upper radiator hose - 200°F
lower radiator hose - 110°F
water pump - 200°F
upper heater hose - 175°F
lower heater hose. - 160°F
lower rate radio lower heater hose pipe at water pump - 200°F
When I turn the engine off, there is a suction sort of sound in the upper radiator hose. What a pinch in the other three tiny water hoses see picture the suction immediately stops.
Any ideas? WELCOME ! Michael.
yes, a 90deg F RAD drop with that very good working radiator. (nice RAD and good rad fan too, parked)
this system also runs backwards, reverse fllow, and other strange, ways too. let me explain them all. (try)
1: reverse flow. (as seen by the thermostat only) such that pipe 22 is key to it working right.
2: even more odd the coolant (water) temp sensor is on the rear of the head not in the thermostat well, so the ETC sensor reads wrong all time time. (off set way higher) the ECU knows that and is happy there. ECT readings or IR GUN on rear, ECT metal housing will show way hotter than thermostat reading. (it run 180 so ECT might run 225?f) as head heats it up more.
the hottest water lands on heater core top hose and ECT both. and top rad hose
3: the cab heater must flow water all the times (running sure) and its related bypass tubes, and if NOT the thermostat will fail open properly or it will surge like mad.
it needs a custom 1.8L (up) thermostat for backwards flow systems and has a rubber ring around there rim that must not be missing.
4; hose 22 and 19 must not be missing or blocked.
for there to be full heater core drop the blower must be on full and cold air is sucking into it, if not no drop happens or small 15f above is your drop
that suction sound to me is air is the system. not purged fully. getting it out can be hard in custom car like this. adding a purge port may be a cure.
looks to me all is ok but odd sounds.
nice car you built very nice and interesting too and thanks for sharing this, I love projects like this. lots of fun this build, I am sure.
cheers and good luck , kick
THANKS FOR THE INFO. 2 QUESTIONS STILL: IT'S A 180F STAT - WHY DOES IT NOT OPEN IF WATER BEHIND IS 200F? ALSO, WHAT ARE THOSE TINY HOSES FOR? LOOKS LIKE ONE GOES TO THE T.B. - CAN I RUN THE ENGINE WITH THE LONG ONE DISCONNECTED..FOR TESTING PURPOSES SOUNDS LIKE I'D HAVE TO BE IN A DESERT BEFORE THAT STAT OPENS LOL. I HAVE A 4.5" LIFT;2" BODY LIFT; 33's; KRAWLER CASE; E-LOCKER
THANKS FOR THE INFO. 2 QUESTIONS STILL:
IT'S A 180F STAT - WHY DOES IT NOT OPEN IF WATER BEHIND IS 200F? (it is, open some, but not by much with such a great quality and sized RAD. there.)
i think biol point is 260 ( 50% AF, +12psi cap.) yours will never land there I bet, with good RAD.
ALSO, WHAT ARE THOSE TINY HOSES FOR? LOOKS LIKE ONE GOES TO THE T.B. -
yes TB hoses , the TB is water heated for faster cold starts faster TB heat up , helps and ends ICING, (a classic killer that in piston air craft.)
CAN I RUN THE ENGINE WITH THE LONG ONE DISCONNECTED..FOR TESTING PURPOSES.
which hose is this long, one.
I am glad to help, ask more, or tell more, all is welcome here.
the small hoses (all 3 counting metal ones)
1: TB heat up no icing.
2: pipe 22 and all those to it , for sure buy pass hose, sends not water or rear of thermostat, so it can even work.
3: the bypass hose wakes the TB up early , dead cold engine for sure very very cold outside this can help.
http://www.fixkick.com
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(10-17-2021, 05:25 AM)fixkick Wrote: (10-17-2021, 01:11 AM)MICHAEL Wrote: (10-16-2021, 09:57 PM)fixkick Wrote: (10-16-2021, 12:14 PM)MICHAEL Wrote: Hello, I have a 1997 Sidekick Sport 4 door manual tranny; it has the 2.3L motor swap - bought 4 months ago. As far as I know 1.8-2.3 are nearly the same?
I noticed that the radiator and lower rad hose are always cold. The radiator and thermostat are new. The water is hot on the water pump side, but cold on stat housing and below. I am pretty sure all the air is out of the system. I am only noticing this now, so may be normal this time of year? It was quite hot out 4 months ago and I was crawling through the trails - never overheats or runs hot. Needle is always in the middle of the gauge. The hose coming out of the heater core is almost the same as going in. I always hear water flowing in the heater core when upshifting (over 3000rpm or so). I flushed/cleaned the heater core - no debris/water flow seemed good.
I just bought an IR gun today and measurements are as follows:
Cylinder head - 160°F
upper radiator hose - 200°F
lower radiator hose - 110°F
water pump - 200°F
upper heater hose - 175°F
lower heater hose. - 160°F
lower rate radio lower heater hose pipe at water pump - 200°F
When I turn the engine off, there is a suction sort of sound in the upper radiator hose. What a pinch in the other three tiny water hoses see picture the suction immediately stops.
Any ideas? WELCOME ! Michael.
yes, a 90deg F RAD drop with that very good working radiator. (nice RAD and good rad fan too, parked)
this system also runs backwards, reverse fllow, and other strange, ways too. let me explain them all. (try)
1: reverse flow. (as seen by the thermostat only) such that pipe 22 is key to it working right.
2: even more odd the coolant (water) temp sensor is on the rear of the head not in the thermostat well, so the ETC sensor reads wrong all time time. (off set way higher) the ECU knows that and is happy there. ECT readings or IR GUN on rear, ECT metal housing will show way hotter than thermostat reading. (it run 180 so ECT might run 225?f) as head heats it up more.
the hottest water lands on heater core top hose and ECT both. and top rad hose
3: the cab heater must flow water all the times (running sure) and its related bypass tubes, and if NOT the thermostat will fail open properly or it will surge like mad.
it needs a custom 1.8L (up) thermostat for backwards flow systems and has a rubber ring around there rim that must not be missing.
4; hose 22 and 19 must not be missing or blocked.
for there to be full heater core drop the blower must be on full and cold air is sucking into it, if not no drop happens or small 15f above is your drop
that suction sound to me is air is the system. not purged fully. getting it out can be hard in custom car like this. adding a purge port may be a cure.
looks to me all is ok but odd sounds.
nice car you built very nice and interesting too and thanks for sharing this, I love projects like this. lots of fun this build, I am sure.
cheers and good luck , kick
THANKS FOR THE INFO. 2 QUESTIONS STILL: IT'S A 180F STAT - WHY DOES IT NOT OPEN IF WATER BEHIND IS 200F? ALSO, WHAT ARE THOSE TINY HOSES FOR? LOOKS LIKE ONE GOES TO THE T.B. - CAN I RUN THE ENGINE WITH THE LONG ONE DISCONNECTED..FOR TESTING PURPOSES SOUNDS LIKE I'D HAVE TO BE IN A DESERT BEFORE THAT STAT OPENS LOL. I HAVE A 4.5" LIFT;2" BODY LIFT; 33's; KRAWLER CASE; E-LOCKER
THANKS FOR THE INFO. 2 QUESTIONS STILL:
IT'S A 180F STAT - WHY DOES IT NOT OPEN IF WATER BEHIND IS 200F? (it is, open some, but not by much with such a great quality and sized RAD. there.)
i think biol point is 260 ( 50% AF, +12psi cap.) yours will never land there I bet, with good RAD.
ALSO, WHAT ARE THOSE TINY HOSES FOR? LOOKS LIKE ONE GOES TO THE T.B. -
yes TB hoses , the TB is water heated for faster cold starts faster TB heat up , helps and ends ICING, (a classic killer that in piston air craft.)
CAN I RUN THE ENGINE WITH THE LONG ONE DISCONNECTED..FOR TESTING PURPOSES.
which hose is this long, one.
I am glad to help, ask more, or tell more, all is welcome here.
the small hoses (all 3 counting metal ones)
1: TB heat up no icing.
2: pipe 22 and all those to it , for sure buy pass hose, sends not water or rear of thermostat, so it can even work.
3: the bypass hose wakes the TB up early , dead cold engine for sure very very cold outside this can help. THANKX AGAIN. SO THE STAT NOT BEING OPEN A LOT OF THE TIMES IS NORMAL THEN? I'VE NEVER HAD A VEHICLE ACTING LIKE THIS. ONE OF THE GUYS AT WORK HAS A DOMESTIC THAT HAS BEEN LIKE THAT FOR YEARS - WEIRD.
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