Cleaning the IAC....

[cosmic_splatter]

Fixkick,

While I have the throttle body off, should I clean the IAC? There was a guy on the suzuki forum who pulled his off to clean and damaged the rubber gasket. I'm not sure this gasket is available. Should I chance damaging the gasket to clean it since my tracker has 140k miles?

John

[fixkick]

the IAC under TB or the IAC on the left side of the plenum chamber.

one is thermal, TB bottom
other is electric.

the plenum electric IAC (ISC) is just a paper gasket.
the one on the throttle body, id not touch, until it leaks, cold, its a bear to get off.

[cosmic_splatter]

I wasn't aware there was two. Here is the one I was thinking of. It's on the left side.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/91-95-GEO-TRACKE...f4&vxp=mtr

Doesn't look like there is too much to clean though.

I'm assuming the one on the throttle body is where the cooling hose attaches to the TB?

John

[fixkick]

this I call the ISC, idle speed controller, because that is its job (suzuki changed the names 3 times in 20 years) electric.
the IAC is the idle air controller, aka. cold start fast idle valve. CSFA? lol , but is pure thermal device, below TB.

the ISC has no rubber parts, unless somebody , got frisky and use MEK or acetone or other wild solvents inside. use carb cleaner, or if really careful use CRC MAF clearer or CRC manifold cleaner.
The CRC brand is 100% safe for plastics... but i use carb cleaner and it did no harm.

the TB IAC has only water hoses. it gets air from the TB front port and sends it to the rear of the TB bore, below 150F, above 150f its closed, it if stick open the engine screams hot. endless.

The iSC has water and Air hose.
the water hose is to heat the plenum, only, the iSC is not a thermal device at all , dispite that water hose.. implications.
the IAC air supply is easy, it uses metered air from he MAF to control idle at all times.
the IAC is just an AIR solenoid, a coil of wire. see it here, fully apart.
the only rubber is the ring on the left side of the SEAT, its a vulcanized ring of neoprene rubber , i think, some or most look a bit beat up after 20 years, and 200 cycles per second modulation. but that is ok,.. mostly.
what you want , is open with 12v and closed mostly at 0v. see my video. if it leaks a bet , we can correct that at the TB air bleed screw (called duty cycle setting in the FSM)





see hit and hear it here , in my short video, covered on my ISC testing page.

http://www.fixkick.com/videos/FLV-all/showtime.html#ISC


i clean them both here.
http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/cleaning-...uble1w.JPG

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the screw adjust, is a factory setting, if you must reset it, I set it so the plunger just barely hits the seat. then do my electric test on it.
the part cleaned, can work great, not sticking, this part sucks in lots of PCV fumes and can get very nasty dirty, and gummy easy.

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the above says inducted air to TB , this is only true on 8v
the 16v, is inducted directly to the plenum....

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the above photo is a destructive , example do not attempt this.
the coil reads, IIRC, 6 ohms to 15 ohms, 1989/90 is 6, later are 2 times that.