Clutch pedal bushing?

[GeoHacker]

Hi, hope all are well.

Anyone know of any places still selling the clutch pedal bushing? (1992 Geo Tracker 4wd)

Mine seems to have bit the dust and the pedal started squeaking up horribly after some extreme winter temperatures here. Used to be GM part 96057754 I think but is not available anymore? https://www.gmpartsgiant.com/parts/chevr...57754.html

[fixkick]

doors 2 or 4, , 8v or 16valve engine, no cruise options, what trans? 3/4 auto or stick.? what car, tell what car this is? please.
for sure just came back from Caribbean cruise. dove the Cayman barrier reef, fun.

not at rock auto, only at SUZUKI.
need the number?

pedal bushing ? where exactly
i can not find any GM parts at all, very hard to get them (they say GEO what?)
it says discontinued, and is true.


off my clutch page
part 22 (ID) both bad? there are 2.

calif. suzuki
https://www.suzukicarparts.com/shoppingc...07%2D16001

[GeoHacker]

doors 2 or 4, , 8v or 16valve engine, no cruise options, what trans? 3/4 auto or stick.? what car, tell what car this is? please.
for sure just came back from Caribbean cruise. dove the Cayman barrier reef, fun.

Thanks, sorry for lack of info. Hope you had a nice trip.

Geo Tracker 1992 4wd, 5 speed stick. 8 valve engine, 2-door, LSI package. (and with a new top finally )

Not sure which bushings are broken yet, still have to take pedal apart next warm day.

I sure hope some can be found somewhere. Will try that link there.

[fixkick]

only suzuki made those
most body parts are not made aftermarket for this car.
i think china has cloned front finders,
factory parts, of the 3000 parts, maybe a fraction are cloned. by aftermakets,
all the brake parts are made (rockauto full list), but not backing plates, and that rear adjuster and brakelines.
its not a Toyota corolla with 40milliion on the road.
some years of sidekicks only sold 9000 vehicle. after the (infamous tip over fear in the article in "Consumer Reports" )
nobody makes parts gets rich making or selling parts to 9000s cars or the tiny remainder, 20 years later.
and is why I call the car the Underdog. + chapter 11 status in usa, (no cars sold) Bankrupt selling cars in USA>

my guess is you have not even began the job of finding the cause.? or your mechanic never even looked or did the diagnosis?
if you had asked me first (LOL)
id say it fails just like all suzuki do , see my clutch page (linked my signature below or the links below)_

see this page, this is the page i made 11years ago to show how parts needed badly are hard to find or the $1200 MAF sensor pain or buying defective china cloned parts (vast now) (btw, USA perspectives only)
http://fixkick.com/buy-parts.html

how ever one can use many vitara parts world wide and find parts, not here in USA mainland. that match (many do)


did you click my link above, in post 2?
and then in the calif, search box suzuki dealer?
and type in 09307-16001 (only suzuki sells this busing part and then number is owned by suzuki too)

TEST1: (floppy pedal)
if you use a flash light and move the clutch you see the lever of the pedal flex oddly left and right them see the main shaft not move, bingo weld failure. 5 min, work that.



facts:
they all have horrible welds on the pedal at the top of the pedal arm , at big shaft, it's only tack welded, ask any welder how good that works, not good.
so I had to weld all mine, or they broke, (all 3 cars) (mostly for previous owners damage , all my cables were new)
but wait a case can be made , suzuki did this on purpose, to save the firewall, from huge damage, (using the weakest link engineering methods)



my clutch page (start at title logic) (type clutch in my search page land here)

http://www.fixkick.com/tranny/clutch/clu...-kick.html

every sidekick vitara made, do this. (with zero service , cables can be lubed, just like on motor cycles, a fact)
the cable clutch fails, on all of them they all seize at say 150k miles?, less in salt environments (salted roads in Detroit ) or on Ocean Island. RUSTS .

then the owner of the car ignores the stiff clutch, and presses hard , a grown man and can push with 100lbs of force at the pedal. super easy
the pedal is 6:1 lever ratio (ball park) so the force at the top of the pedal and firewall mount is 600lbs (gorilla grade force/ weight?)
that breaks the pedal first. (like clock work we say)
then the owners welds this damage next (pedal in hand as my photos show) (seen first fixed first, no magic here)
next week,...
then the fire wall cracks, oops, a daisy, that is nasty.
my slide show , shows all this classic horror and the cure is new cable every time, then repair the collateral damage.
oops 1
http://www.fixkick.com/tranny/clutch/mik...age_8.html

oops 2 (fire wall wrecked by bad cable)
http://www.fixkick.com/tranny/clutch/mik...age_4.html


did i bingo?
hope it makes for fast cure. Cheers.

PS

next my guess is you will ask for cable.? sure, cant blame you,. AZ sold one cable made if plastic that is pure junk, seen it. DuraCrap
and that is cloned, and some are junk. (china plastic cloned cables) (rubber boot on the end is quality.)
there are IIRC, 3 cables. for the 2 bodies (2/4dr) and 2 engines

on the same page, find ( control +F) PC search
CABLE CITY.
bingo.

that list is old, 11yr. and there may be vastly more cables made, lets look now , oops , only more clones and less good parts. IMO

the beck wins for quality others can be SUPER junk, the plastic over the steel casing is quality, but one cable was all plastic on the actual casing all the way to the flex cable, and useless.

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/suzuk...cable,1972



what is your USA vin number off top of dash or on left side of dash , car drivers door open.
we can see if car is USE FED or USA CALIF. car. so parts matching works.

in the USA dealer that is the first words from his mouth, for very good reasons.


the 95 years 96 year changes is the end if the cable.
the end is not double nutted to a mount
and see rubber mount cushion, look under car, at the mount, if no nuts on shaft and just rubber drop in bushing your car has the newer setup.
my 96 has that, rubber type.

thats it , the above is just repeat of my whole clutch page.

[GeoHacker]

only suzuki made those

my clutch page (start at title logic) (type clutch in my search page land here)

http://www.fixkick.com/tranny/clutch/clu...-kick.html

did i bingo?
hope it makes for fast cure. Cheers.

PS

next my guess is you will ask for cable.? sure, cant blame you,. search
CABLE CITY.
bingo.

You were right, clutch cable.

Sorry for lack of update here, *greatly* appreciated the information. Got a new (old) 2006 Honda Pilot which took the urgency off.

Lesson here for me is (maybe) don't assume the worst. (bushings).

Yesterday, finally, after some warm weather and some resolve, I got the year old cable out…

I lubed the PRIOR OEM dealer cable I'd gotten long ago, and filled it up with some oil for now until I can get a new one…and installed.

That pedal moves like butter now, other than for the clicks.

The clutch pedal without a cable on it does still make 3 clicks going from up position then down to floor. I wonder if it is just a spring in the assembly moving during the range, or would that clicking be the bushings? There's not much play in the shaft if I wiggle it though.

The new cable which was binding, I put on last year with the transmission overhaul and it was claimed to be a Beck-Arnley and it was smooth initially, but I think it got bent up at the wire-clip holders under the radiator, suffered that pinch? That's what it looks like visually. Also, under the car there, the connector part there was bad corroded.

Anyhow, sorry for late update, hope you are doing fine.

Fixed up the worn out turn signal contact with solder also…dang if that didn't fix the horrible left turn signal to perfection, and now the right turn signal buzzes! So, will have to pull it again, and finesse it. Could be too much grease is in the way still, or the solder needs to wear in some there, which it will eventually. If you knock it on hard, it works.

Anyway, clutch cable WAS the problem for sure, but not sure my bushings aren't bad, have some used on the way. Still checking if the clutch cable was also the problem with my reluctant second gear change…hard to tell now that the weather is warmer and it shifts better being warmer anyway.

Car always starts even after sitting for ages. If I had a new 5th gear and a cluster shaft, I'd fix it back up and get rid of the deafening whir at speed and enjoy. Especially since I got a new top on Ebay, that makes it perfect now…my self-refurbed one was just leaking too much. Best $150 spent ever.

Only other problem my Tracker has is that say you park the accelerator at a set speed going down the road under not much load (2nd gear, say), the engine makes the drive tain surge back and forth in a kind of oscillation, fairly quick period 4hz?…have read about that on here before, but don't recall what fixes that. Being under load or accelerating corrects.

rc

[fixkick]

92 8v, 2door, 4wd?
yes the cable is problematic, and for sure cold.
they also wear a groove inside the cable, where no human can see. and likes to stick./click and well a PITA, to deal with, bad.
the pedal welds break and the fire wall cracks.
rust is always and issue, on old cars.

never seen a bushing fail there, but, anything is possible on machines. and super hard work to replace, just on a guess.
id watch the shaft there with my EYES, while person 2, operates the clutch see if the shaft move in any direction but, turns. simple test to do.

surge at 2nd gear cruise,(in 4wd? and are the locking hubs unlucked , never seen a set , in the wild, not seized with rust, jammed.
the 4wd lock hubs can be removed, to test for one day, they sure dont hold the wheels on, car.
if it is the engine surging, then I'd tend to think the 02 is bad.
(for sure lots of things, causing lean out and surge, marginal fuel pressure, is engine misfiring,?)
MAP hoses bad, clogged cracked, or either ends, of hose, nipples packed in junk , some have filter on this line, packed?
run injector cleaner in it, Chevron Techron in the tank? a bottle of that (put in tank) can clean that single injector if the spray pattern is not right. causing surges.
bad fuel is possible. (water in fuel, for sure if ethanol is used in the fuel)

there are some Ideas. hope one helps you, cheers!